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KCScooterDude Member
 Joined: 01 May 2008 Posts: 788 Location: Kansas City, Missouri 2007 Genuine Blur 150, 1981 Suzuki GS550L (retired)
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:38 am Post subject: Ready for my first mod |
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Okay, I'm going to do my first mod in motorcycle repair class, which starts next week. I'm mostly going to work on my Suzuki GS motorcycle, but the first thing I want to do is give my Blur a little more pep. I might change the pipe, but I hope to wait until the class is almost over to do that.
Looking for advice. I want a little more acceleration, but I don't want to sacrifice too much top end. Any suggestions? What's the best slider option, etc?
What are some other mods people have done? _________________ PM me to ride in the Kansas City area!!!
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Lostmycage FAQ Moderator
 Joined: 17 Jun 2008 Posts: 4282 Location: Richmond, VA Vintage Concours; Scarebear 500ie, MP3 500
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Best bang for the buck is 11g or 12g sliders. I can't speak for 11g on the Blur personally, but 12 is better than stock for sure. That's hands down the cheapest and easiest answer to your question. If you want to dig deeper, there's cutting out a little of the stock air box and re-jetting (along with a higher flow pipe), changing out the CDI and indexing the plug. If you want to do better than that, you're gonna have to rebuild the top of the engine.
Let us know what you decide on, sounds like a fun project. Just don't get grounded when the weather stops sucking! _________________
Scarebear for sale!
Check out Scoot Richmond's new site. My wife made it!
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KCScooterDude Member
 Joined: 01 May 2008 Posts: 788 Location: Kansas City, Missouri 2007 Genuine Blur 150, 1981 Suzuki GS550L (retired)
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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| Lostmycage wrote: | Best bang for the buck is 11g or 12g sliders. I can't speak for 11g on the Blur personally, but 12 is better than stock for sure. That's hands down the cheapest and easiest answer to your question. If you want to dig deeper, there's cutting out a little of the stock air box and re-jetting (along with a higher flow pipe), changing out the CDI and indexing the plug. If you want to do better than that, you're gonna have to rebuild the top of the engine.
Let us know what you decide on, sounds like a fun project. Just don't get grounded when the weather stops sucking! |
I'm not opposed to installing a cylinder kit if I can find one. Let's say I want to go the whole way: sliders, adding a pipe and re-jetting and adding a cylinder kit. Are these mods independent of one another or do you have to plan for everything at the same time? IE: This pipe means I need to go with these sliders?
I also see clutch kits out there? Anyone fool with these? _________________ PM me to ride in the Kansas City area!!!
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Lostmycage FAQ Moderator
 Joined: 17 Jun 2008 Posts: 4282 Location: Richmond, VA Vintage Concours; Scarebear 500ie, MP3 500
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Posted: Sat Jan 16, 2010 11:04 pm Post subject: |
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Yes and no. A pipe will require rejetting, but not different weights. Weights effect the gear ratio (and can be a separate project). Increasing the power output of the engine means you can take advantage of higher gearing (heavier weights). The clutch effects your launches and stall speed and the contra spring effects the roll on gearing.
They all work with one another, so if you know you're doing them all, you should plan out a build. If you're trying to figure out what each component does, you're going to have to install them one at a time and break each part in so you can get a feel for what they do.
If you're going to go big bore, I'd try to find a ceramic cylinder kit as opposed to the iron ones. I hope that answered your question. It's really hard to describe how these parts "feel". _________________
Scarebear for sale!
Check out Scoot Richmond's new site. My wife made it!
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