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How To: replace the front brake pads on a Buddy 50

 
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jasondavis48108
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Joined: 24 Apr 2009
Posts: 2943
Location: Ann Arbor
2010 Honda sh150i

PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:33 pm    Post subject: How To: replace the front brake pads on a Buddy 50 Reply with quote

Replacing Front Brake Pads

Note: This How-To would not have been possible without the great amount of help I revieced from lostmycage. Thanks So much Very Happy

Tools:
1) Ratchet with 12 mm socket
2) Needle nose pliers
3) 5.5mm wrench (optional)
4) Torque wrench
5) Container for small parts
6) Stool or bucket to set caliper on
Materials:
1) Thread locker
2) Set of new pads
Time: about 30 minutes if you pay attention to where the parts go before you start disassembling the caliper 

Process:
1) Remove the two 12mm bolts that hold the caliper to the fork with the ratchet and 12mm socket.


2) Remove the circular clip on the back of the cotter pin with some needle nose pliers. Be careful when removing the clip cause it can really fly if you lose your grip on it.


3) Use pliers to push the compression plate on the top of the pads down. Now remove the cotter pin from the caliper. Mine was stuck so I used a 5.5mm wrench to turn it a bit and get it unstuck.

4) Once the cotter pin is removed the pads and compression plate will slide/fall out.

5) Put the circular clip, cotter pin, and compression plate in a small container so you donít lose them.

6) At this point I used q-tips and a bit of spit to clean up the inside of the caliper and the piston walls. This sounds kind of gross, but it was filthy and I didnít want to use too much liquid cleaner and have it get inside the caliper.

all this brown gunck should be removed so it doesn't end up in your caliper Smile

7) Once clean, push the pistons inside the caliper until they are almost level with the inside of the caliper walls. My pads were near gone so this required a bit of effort. If you donít do this then the new pads wonít fit inside the caliper.

Cool Slide the new pads into the caliper with the braking surfaces sandwiched together. I just let them rest on the back wall of the caliper.

9) The tricky part is getting the compression plate and cotter pin back in. Once you have the pads in place insert the cotter pin into the hole of the first pad but not the 2nd. Place the compression plate back into the caliper. The proper placement is with the larger part of the I shape on top of the caliper near the brake fluid line and the smaller part of the I shape resting on the tops of the two brake pads. (see pic) with the compression plate in its proper place, I used the needle nose pliers to push the compression plate down until I could slide the cotter pin over the u shape in the compression plate and through the hole in the 2nd brake pad. And finally through the back of the caliper

10) Reinstall the circular clip.

11) The caliper is now reassembled and youíre ready to mount it back on to the fork.

12) Put some blue tread locker on the two bolts before you put them back on.

13) I put the caliper in place so I could see through both holes in to the fork holes that the bolts go into.

14) I then put some thread locker on a bolt and put this about half way through the top hole.

15) Do the same for the bottom hole

16) Get both bolts flush with the fork but not too tight.

17) Tighten both bolts to 3kg/m with a torque wrench.
Thatís it. Your done.

Note: When you first replace your brake pads the braking will be weaker than before you replaced the pads. Be careful and give yourself extra time to brake until the new pads are broken in. Also the pads will slightly rub against the rotor until they are broken in, this is apparently normal and you shouldn't freak out as I did at first. Also I found out that brake rotors get darn hot so don't touch them right after you've ridden or you will burn your fingure and it will hurt Laughing

If there is anything else that folks need pics of that I havn't thought about just let me know. After going through this process twice becuase I put the compression spring in backwards the first time Embarassed I could probably have the front brake disassembled and reassembled in about 20 minutes Laughing

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Last edited by jasondavis48108 on Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:16 am; edited 3 times in total
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Lostmycage
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Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 4499
Location: The Interwebz!
Scootypuff Sr.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check your PMs. Thanks for putting this together, I'm looking forward to posting this in the FAQ!
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Lostmycage
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Joined: 17 Jun 2008
Posts: 4499
Location: The Interwebz!
Scootypuff Sr.

PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excellent! There's now a link to this in the FAQ.

The process is basically the same, just with slightly different components. If someone wants to take and label some other model specific pics, that'd be pretty sweet!

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wassonii
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Joined: 04 Mar 2014
Posts: 3
Location: Florida's Treasure Coast
2011 Buddy50

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you. A thousand times, thank you.
45 minutes (my first time), not alotta cussin', and saved me some moulah. Merci!
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ucandoit
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Joined: 24 Sep 2014
Posts: 316
Location: Minnesota
2008 buddy 125

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 3:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would the process be the same for the Buddy 125?
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skully93
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Joined: 31 Dec 2011
Posts: 2593
Location: Denver CO
currently Ď09 Buddy Italia, Honda CTX700DCT

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ucandoit wrote:
Would the process be the same for the Buddy 125?


Yes. pretty much the same setup.

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cummingsjc
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Joined: 30 Dec 2015
Posts: 352
Location: College Station, TX
Genuine Buddy 50cc, Genuine Mean Cat, Piaggio MP3-500 (Desert Camo), MP3-400 (Pinky)

PostPosted: Fri Oct 21, 2016 3:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

To be honest, it really isn't that much different on most scooters that have disc brakes.
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