First Service...

Mikie M. · Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 181 **'09 Buddy 50**

My dealer did the first service on my Blur SS220i today, at 415 miles. I was sitting there watching it all when I noticed the tech was about to refill the transmission case with 75w/90 gear lube. I immediately mentioned to him that the owners manual calls for SAE 140, so he ran to the auto parts store and got some. Was this right, wrong, or does it matter?
Also, he replaced the oil with Motul 10w/40 synthetic. Is this stuff good, bad, or does it matter?
Of course, the best thing of all was a price of $29 and change for the complete service.

illnoise · Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:46 pm Post subject:

If the mechanic really knows what he's doing, I'd trust him, but if it was that cheap I might be nervous. Is he a Genuine-trained mechanic?

The numbers specify viscosity. "140" is 140. "75/90" is multigrade oil, 75 when cold and 90 when hot. The Blur 150 manual (might be diff for the 220!) says 85/140. So that's not far off when cold, but not terribly close when hot (most of the time). Seems to me that it (especially the second number) should be closer to spec. The 75 cold is probably fine (read on for explanation)

In the engine, I use (on POCphil's recommendation) 5W40 instead of PGO's recommended 15W40, his argument is that chicago is colder than Taipei so 15W cold might get too thick in cold weather. Or something like that. Again, that's for a 150, make sure it's the same spec.

Also, I don't wanna create a panic about this (I mentioned it in another thread) but Genuine specified a valve check/adjustment at the first service (it was issued in a memo, not in the service manual) on the original Blurs. That might not be an issue on the new Blurs but it's worth asking.

Bryan

illnoise · Posted: Tue Aug 17, 2010 9:49 pm Post subject:

Also, mechanics tend to put in too much gearbox oil. They read the cc amount and put it in without regard to how much they drained out.

This will manifest itself as oil splattered all over your rear wheel, be sure to keep it cleaned off for safety., it will stop seeping when the level is correct.

And synthetic is fine, people argue all day over which is better, but any name-brand oil, dino or synth, is better than whatever they put in there at the factory, and loads better than any oil from 10 years ago. All name brand oil is better than it needs to be. I've heard reasonable justifications for breaking in with dino and then using synth from then on, but I can't remember why and it probably doesn't matter much.

Bb.

davelhunter

I was just quoted $150 for the 1st service on the Blur 220i! Compared to $35.00 this seems a little high. Can anyone else chime in on what it should cost for the 1st service, which I believe is just an oil change, once over, and valve adjustment.

Mikie M. · Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 181 **'09 Buddy 50**

Thanks, illnoise. I doubt these guys are Genuine factory trained, but they are long time motorcycle and scooter repairmen and have had the local Genuine dealership for several years now. I did not ask about the valve adjustment, mainly because there is so little maintenance data out for the SS, I thought I'd wait a little while.
As I watched, I made sure the correct amounts went in. A couple of hours after I got home I checked the oil level and it was about 3/8 of an inch above the full mark. I checked the owners manual and it said to start the engine and let it run for 2 minutes, then shut it off and check the oil. I did that and it's just about right.
Idle has improved with the synthetic oil and there is no more buzz coming back through the throttle grip at highway speed. Smooth all over. All that's left to do is 1/2 gram lighter than stock slider weights.

lardlad · Joined: 29 Jul 2010 Posts: 20

lardlad · Joined: 29 Jul 2010 Posts: 20

And I noticed yesterday it's dripping oil. The plug was super loose. I could turn it with my finger. I can't imagine the dealer forgot to tighten it but who knows. Are these oil plugs known to vibrate loose?

illnoise · Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 12:46 pm Post subject:

the dipstick or the drain bolt? the dipstick is just hand-tightened and it could happen, if the drain bolt came loose, that's pretty bad.

Bb.

lardlad · Joined: 29 Jul 2010 Posts: 20

Bolt.

illnoise · Posted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 9:00 pm Post subject:

engine oil or gearbox oil?

both have torque specs that should be adhered to. The gearbox drain has a washer and a spring and a screen that should be in place. Maybe they stripped the thread?

I've never heard of one working loose unless it wasn't tightened properly or was stripped. Obviously, a loose oil drain bolt is potentially lethal to you and your bike.

Bb.

lardlad · Joined: 29 Jul 2010 Posts: 20

it was the engine. i didn't use a torque wrench, its tight but i didn't crank it. no oil in the lot after work today either.

ericalm · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:22 am Post subject:

$100+ for the first service isn't unusual provided they do all they're supposed to do.

gt1000 · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 1:41 am Post subject:

When you consider the fact that many service depts. charge upwards of $10 a quart for Motul or Shell synth, $29 including labor is one hell of a cheap service.

Lostmycage · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 3:58 am Post subject:

$100 or so isn't bad at all for a First service. There's a number of checks that need to be made. I can tell you this from experience as I did the first service on my Beo myself due to some dealership issues (I didn't trust the dealer I bought it from and my AWESOME local real scooter shop Scoot Richmond can't do warranty work on Aprilia's yet).

If they're doing the whole list, which they're responsible for completing and warrantying , then $100-$150 isn't unreasonable at all, especially with a premium synth oil change (that stuff can get stupid expensive).

That being said, if you have a list of specs (which, I'd love to see for FAQ purposes) it'd certainly be worth it to double check the bike when you get it back... even good techs can make mistakes.

Mikie M. · Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 181 **'09 Buddy 50**

Perhaps a bit of clarification as to why my dealer charges so little for first service.
All I paid for was the oil, filter, and lube, which came to $29.57 including tax. He doesn't apply labor charges, for 'first service' on any of the scooters he sells. This is his own policy and I commend him for it.
Had I wanted a valve adjustment I would have had to pay for that. Shop labor charge is $60 per hour.
In my view, this is the way dealers should reward their customers for buying their products. To charge someone over $100 for a lubricant change is unfair, in my opinion.

illnoise · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 4:37 pm Post subject:

Dealers wouldn't make any money if they didn't charge for service. A free first service is a great idea and it's cool that some dealers do it, I'm all for that, plus it helps people get in the habit of coming in for service. But ultimately, they're making way more money on service visits and parts/accessories than they are on the measly couple hundred bucks (or less, if it's been on the floor for a while) they make on a bike.

$100-$150 is fair for a typical service, usually on the high end in cities or very experienced and busy dealers.

Again, I'm not sure the valve thing is recommended this go-round, but if it is, your dealer should make you aware of it, and point out that if Genuine recommends it, it should be done for warranty and accountability purposes. I would only consider it as "optional" as the oil change and other service guidelines.

(and again and again, i have no idea if it is recommended this time, just saying…)

Bb.

davelhunter · Last edited by davelhunter on Tue Sep 07, 2010 5:17 pm; edited 1 time in total

I just got my 1st service done yesterday at Route 66 Modern Classics in Marina Del Rey, Ca. I heard about the bulletin form Genuine stating that the Blur 220's were leaving the factory with the valves out of spec. and this is why I believe they added the valve adjustment to the 1st service for the Blur 220's. I am glad I had it done. Both the intake & exhaust valves were out of spec. I spent a little more than I thought it was going to cost, but now I have the piece of mind knowing that the valves are right. I did not realize that to get to the valves the shop has to remove the shocks, which is why it cost an extra 1.5 hours of labor more than expected.
One other bit of information which I found out yesterday. I purchased a Prima magnetic oil drain plug from Scooterworks after confirming that it would fit the new Blur 220i. I gave it to the mechanic to install during my 1st service but it would not fit. The screen filter gets in the way because of how the magnet sticks up so I will have to send it back to Scooterworks next week. Just wanted to save someone else the hassle of ordering it and then it not fitting.

killbilly · Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 12:10 am Post subject:

This is good information. I'm not sure if my dealer knows about this or not, and now I'm concerned that I should maybe have the first service done earlier than I planned.

Does Genuine publish those service bulletins in places we can get to them?

I'd like to be able to compare notes with the dealer to ensure that things are getting done correctly.

Thanks for the tip on the drain plug, too. Was considering placing that order on Tuesday.

davelhunter

Here is what I did, I heard about the valve issue so I called the dealer that I was going to get the 1st service done. I asked them for a list of what would be done on a Blur 220 1st service. They did not mention anything about valves, so I called Genuine in Chicago and confirmed about the valves and I asked them if they could contact my local dealer and provide them with a list for the Blur 220 1st service. Genuine emailed my shop the 1st service list so my valves got done. Since I am in California and none of the Genune dealers here in Cali have the Blur yet, mine was the first new model Blur they have done. This is probably why. If you are in any other state they have probably done this already.

Mikie M. · Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 181 **'09 Buddy 50**

Good information.
Bye-the-way, you mentioned before that your Blur had a sputtering problem, and or, poor idle quality. I assume this was before the valve lash adjustment? Also, did the shop say what they set the valves to. Thanks, Mike.

davelhunter · Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:02 am Post subject:

Yes. My valves were at the following before the service:

Intake .004
Exhaust .005

They are now at spec which is:
Intake .002
Exhaust .003

Mikie M. · Joined: 17 Jun 2010 Posts: 181 **'09 Buddy 50**

Whew! The factory settings look awful tight to me, for that motor size. But, regardless it's best to be a little on the loose side. Thanks.

davelhunter · Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:36 am Post subject:

Mine were too lose before the service. The shop put them exactly to spec now. They are now at .002 & .003. The bike runs even better now.
Went on the freeway today and hit 81mph at only about 80% throttle!

illnoise · Posted: Mon Sep 06, 2010 5:54 pm Post subject:

That's awesome. I was easily hitting the mid-80s (indicated, remember!) when I test rode the prototype, and I'm fat. I wonder if a skinny dude could get it to 90?

I can only briefly hit 70 on a good day with a tailwind on the 150, so that extra 70cc sure makes a difference!

davelhunter

I called Genuine today and confirmed that the Magnetic Oil Drain Plug DOES fit the new Blur 220i. I explained to them what happened at the shop and they told me that they are not supposed to use the metal screen filter with the magnetic drain plug. When you use the metal drain plug the screen is not needed. I feel like the shop should have known this. Now I have to wait until my next oil change to use the magnetic drain plug I purchased.
I also found out from a friend that works at a shop that if I am provided a written estimate for a 1st service for $150.00 when I dropped off the bike at the shop, I should not have been presented with a bill for over $125.00 more because they said it took an extra 1.5 hours longer than they thought it would to adjust the valves. I am thinking about calling the shop back today and talking to someone. Now that I think about it, it does not seem right to me.

killbilly

killbilly · Posted: Sat Sep 11, 2010 9:07 pm Post subject:

Went in and had a first service done on the bike today. Total cost was $56 and change.

The mech did inspect the valves - he didn't have a replacement valve cover gasket in stock and didn't want to risk it, so I agreed to have it looked at another time. He did say that the motor was running fine and strong, and that I didn't have anything to worry about right now. This mech has a pretty good reputation, and I've heard him shoot straight with people before so I'm inclined to believe him.

I'm only at 150mi right now. He did the oil change and final drive service. Everything appears to be okay. I think I'm going to have it serviced again at around 500-600mi just to be on the safe side, and maybe get a magnetic plug for it then.

Lostmycage · Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 2:28 am Post subject:

killbilly · Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 2:33 am Post subject:

Lostmycage · Posted: Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:15 am Post subject:

I think you're fine, it is after all better safe than sorry.

I didn't want to discourage you away from the magnetic drain plug, by the way. Peace of mind is still a really good thing to have!

Even if he didn't do the valves (and honestly, it's too early to do so) you got a really good price on a first service. Doing it yourself, you'd pay $20 or more in synthetic oil alone (granted, the synthetic gear oil will last you for quite a few years).

Enjoy!