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RoughHouse Question

 
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RoughRider
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Joined: 01 Apr 2016
Posts: 4


PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2016 8:47 pm    Post subject: RoughHouse Question Reply with quote

Hey my first post and i'm already asking questions aha. So less then a year ago I purchased a new RoughHouse "titanium'. I love the scooter I've put close to 900 miles on her. I derestricted the exhaust at around 500 miles. The power significantly improved. Today I decided to take a crack at the restriction on the variator. I was able to do so without a problem. When I went to test the scooter out I immediately noticed a difference. The acceleration was smooth although less "tourky". Before I took out the variators restriction, there was a sense of a small power band when accelerating. Once I hit the main drag I notice the scooters Rpm's stayed lower at top speed and the acceleration was all around slower albeit smoother. Top speed was tough to tell whether or not it was improved, definitely no decrease. So is lack in acceleration, common after derestricting the variator? I've read about upgrading my clutch spring to 1500rpm, as well as trying different weighted rollers. I have no experience with such parts. Do I need to get one if I get the other? Does this void warranty? Does this jeopardize reliability? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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luckyscroller788
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Joined: 30 Sep 2014
Posts: 191
Location: Southeast WI
Hoolie 170/ buddy 170

PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As far as I know, ANY modification like you've mentioned (including the removal of the exhaust restrictor) can void your warranty. The best way to get a quicker, peppier scooter is to buy a larger cc scooter. That way, you can ride it and have your peppiness, and still have a warranty IMHO
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Yalzin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2014
Posts: 239
Location: Oakland, CA
2013 Stella "Donna Stella"

PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You don't need to change out both the weights and the springs, you can do one or the other.

Roller weights aren't covered by warranty anyway (they are considered a 'wear' item), so no real issue with that.

I'd go back in and just make sure your weights didn't get jumbled up when you put the variator back together. Also, make sure that your slides on the plate are there and intact.
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RoughRider
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Joined: 01 Apr 2016
Posts: 4


PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 9:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I went back today and replaced the restrictor ring. I checked to see that everything was in place. The acceleration improved but I don't think its all the way back to normal. My top speed seems to be slightly lower as I can't get over 40mph on the speedometer. I'm going to experiment with different weights and springs. Hopefully that works it out thanks for the replies.
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RoughRider
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Joined: 01 Apr 2016
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2016 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If anyone could post a link for the springs they'd recommend I would appreciate it. Also a good parts site in general.
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DeeDee
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Joined: 26 Jul 2014
Posts: 693
Location: Denver
buddy 170i

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2016 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yalzin wrote:
You don't need to change out both the weights and the springs, you can do one or the other.

This is not an accurate statement. You can gain top speed and get better acceleration by fine tuning the variator and adding stiffer clutch springs.

When you removed the variator washer you basically traded your scooter's first gear for a 5th gear. You made the boss (shaft variator travels on) shorter. This stops the belt from riding down on the smallest diameter of your primary drive (variator). This is why you lost acceleration. At the same time by moving the two variator pieces closer together, you are allowing the belt to travel further out on the front pulley giving you a bit more top end. You can have the best of both worlds by removing the restrictor washer and replacing your stock rollers with lighter Dr. Pulley Sliders. This will allow the gain made on top speed by letting the belt travel to the furthest outside edge of the variator, and it will bring better acceleration by moving the sliders up the ramps, out toward the edge quicker. You usually want to go around 20 to 30% lighter with the Dr. Pulley Sliders than the stock roller weight.
Now we turn to the clutch springs. I'm not sure what the RH stock springs are, but I think they are 750 rpm. Right now, with stock springs your belt starts to move toward the outer front puller and toward the inner secondary (clutch) pulley when your engine hits 750 rpm. If you replace the 3 pillow springs and the big contra spring with 1000 rpm, your scooter belt starts to travel at a higher rpm. Think of the manual transmission in a car. Put it in fist and let out the clutch at 750 rpm, now do the same but wait until 1,000 rpm. You will be faster off the line and have better low end acceleration.

When you tune your CVT system like this, you will see better acceleration, higher top speed, and your gas mileage usually improves. That restrictor washer holds your scooter's speed back while at the same time revving your engine. In my opinion this is the only way to tune a 50cc. You still have the reliability of the stock engine, and you get rid of the restrictions holding the top speed down.
The best part about these type of modifications is that they can be done by someone without extensive mechanical skills. There are dozens of you tube videos showing how this is done. Much simpler than installing a bigger piston.
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dasscooter
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Joined: 14 Feb 2016
Posts: 326


PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removing the exhaust restrictor and leaving the variator restrictior installed will void your warranty.
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Yalzin
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Joined: 03 Apr 2014
Posts: 239
Location: Oakland, CA
2013 Stella "Donna Stella"

PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2016 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DeeDee wrote:
Yalzin wrote:
You don't need to change out both the weights and the springs, you can do one or the other.

This is not an accurate statement. You can gain top speed and get better acceleration by fine tuning the variator and adding stiffer clutch springs.

When you removed the variator washer you basically traded your scooter's first gear for a 5th gear. You made the boss (shaft variator travels on) shorter. This stops the belt from riding down on the smallest diameter of your primary drive (variator). This is why you lost acceleration. At the same time by moving the two variator pieces closer together, you are allowing the belt to travel further out on the front pulley giving you a bit more top end. You can have the best of both worlds by removing the restrictor washer and replacing your stock rollers with lighter Dr. Pulley Sliders. This will allow the gain made on top speed by letting the belt travel to the furthest outside edge of the variator, and it will bring better acceleration by moving the sliders up the ramps, out toward the edge quicker. You usually want to go around 20 to 30% lighter with the Dr. Pulley Sliders than the stock roller weight.
Now we turn to the clutch springs. I'm not sure what the RH stock springs are, but I think they are 750 rpm. Right now, with stock springs your belt starts to move toward the outer front puller and toward the inner secondary (clutch) pulley when your engine hits 750 rpm. If you replace the 3 pillow springs and the big contra spring with 1000 rpm, your scooter belt starts to travel at a higher rpm. Think of the manual transmission in a car. Put it in fist and let out the clutch at 750 rpm, now do the same but wait until 1,000 rpm. You will be faster off the line and have better low end acceleration.

When you tune your CVT system like this, you will see better acceleration, higher top speed, and your gas mileage usually improves. That restrictor washer holds your scooter's speed back while at the same time revving your engine. In my opinion this is the only way to tune a 50cc. You still have the reliability of the stock engine, and you get rid of the restrictions holding the top speed down.
The best part about these type of modifications is that they can be done by someone without extensive mechanical skills. There are dozens of you tube videos showing how this is done. Much simpler than installing a bigger piston.


Sorry, I should have clarified. DeeDee is correct in the above paragraphs. I only meant "If you only do one, you will have some gain, and the whole system won't explode." But it is better to do a full tune to get it all done correctly.
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dusty roads
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Joined: 19 Apr 2017
Posts: 32
Location: rural southwestern N.Y. State
2015 roughhouse 50

PostPosted: Mon Jul 03, 2017 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had mine derestricted, both exhaust and variator ring. I had my dealer do it and he was not concerned over the warrantee. Besides what came out can go back in !
Results: I found a huge improvement immediately, both acceleration and top speed.
Acceleration from a stop is remarkably better and top speed went from a speedometer indicated 40mph to over 50 mph, although I don't run it continuously at that speed. The difference is so good, that I will likely stick with my Ruffy, even though I had previously considered a higher powered unit
Next stop; windshield, strictly for comfort.
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Ruffhouse50sport
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Joined: 18 Jul 2017
Posts: 9
Location: sebastian florida
2017 roughhouse 50 sport

PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ive heard horror stories of dealers deristricting the pipe but leaving the variator restrictor on and its blowing engines. i just got a brand new RH and they did it to me. this causes your scoot to run hotter. if your going to derestrict it i would suggest doing it all the way. Yea i noticed a change in loss of acceleration but top speed went up. with just some rollers and a contra spring you'll gain you acceleration back up and top speed. just my 2cents.
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Stanza
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Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 263
Location: Chicago
Puch Maxi

PostPosted: Thu Feb 01, 2018 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The roughhouse will run happiest with the cvt restrictor ring and exhaust restrictor taken out (at the exhaust flange). If the bike is in good shape, it should be able to bury the speedo needle, given enough room to ramp up.
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