Trying to change my oil......

[KidDynomite]

And I've freaking rounded off the nut. I was using 17mm sockett and I've all but rounded the thing off trying to bust it free. I deperately need to get the oil changed. I don't want to go any further with it until I've made sure I can be successful without causing more damage.

Any suggestions??

[Kurzer]

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product. ... &ihtoken=1

Failing that, dremmel a line through the head and use a flathead screwdriver. It sounds like either you were off by a hair on the socket choice, or the bolt was in too tightly? Either way, you can find a grade-8 bolt of the same thread pitch and a more common size, or whatever size you have. I like to replace everything with 10 or 12 mm because it cuts down on the tools needed for the job.

Anywhoo... hope this helps a little, and have peace in knowing that at least it's not an Audi otherwise you'd really be screwed

[ericalm]

An offset ratcheting box wrench is just the thing for a drain plug. You can get up there with a socket, too. I haven't done an oil change on the Buddy yet—just past the required dealer maintenance on the new Buddy, but according to what others have done 17mm is the right size for the engine oil drain plug.

viewtopic.php?t=76

[JokerJim]

Hello Kid.

It was good to meet you on Sunday. I had a good time on the ride to Lawrence and back.

Hope you got the oil changed without any more problems.

Joker

[ebcspace]

is there a remote possibility of turning the nut the other way ?

to determine correct direction, you have to look up at it, from beneath, then turn counter-clockwise.

it's easy to confuse without thinking about it.

a good set of vice-grip pliers would usually be the life-saver of stubborn/damaged bolt removals.

[KidDynomite]

is there a remote possibility of turning the nut the other way ?

to determine correct direction, you have to look up at it, from beneath, then turn counter-clockwise.

it's easy to confuse without thinking about it.

a good set of vice-grip pliers would usually be the life-saver of stubborn/damaged bolt removals.

I appreciate your input, but it's the first thing I thought about. It was go back to basics....Lefty Loosy, Righty Tight. Then it was wait.....am I going the right way, it is upside down. Yes, Yes I am doing it right, it just WON'T EFFING BUDGE!!!

I need to soak it with WD-40 and see if it helps. Then yes, I'm getting out the vice-grips. I'm just woried about trashing a part that might take a while to replace and rendy my scoot worthless for some of the best scootin' weeks of the year.

[ebcspace]

sounds like you should replace it, since it will be somewhat toast.

you may want to call your local scooter shop now to check on/order
a replacement, and put off the oil change until you have it in hand.

i agree with ericalm on the tool for the job... ratcheting box-end wrench,
which is also what i use to do mine. (got a set at target) also used the
same type of wrench in the set for the headlight adjustment screw when
doing the halogen bulb replacement. was always looking for a reason to
justify picking up a set of the very cool and useful tools.

best of luck.

[Keys]

I think your problem is someone tightened it too much at either the dealer or the manufacturer. What happens when this is done to aluminum is that the metal stretches. This in turn changes the relationship between the male and the female threads, thereby making them hard to separate (didn't I see this on a soap opera sometime...?). You may find you'll need (or your dealer will...) a butane torch to heat the metal. This will make it a little more maleable for a moment or two...just enough to get it loose. The plug will then have to be replaced and it would be a good idea to run a tap through the threaded portion just to renew a "good relationship".

--Keys

[ebcspace]

nice addition keys...

taking out the old torchorama !

we use that at work with old brass impellers stuck on pool pumps that
do not want to slide off after taking out the set screws. once heated up,
we use an impeller removal tool (read, "slam-slide-weight") to pull it off.
once it comes off, the trick is to jump out the way of the hot part ! ! !

tap and die kits are the bomb !

the predicament is very surprising, in that the plug did not strip the
soft receiving lower end of the oil case.

again, not bad advice to take the scooter to the dealer and have the
pro do the work. may be a good time to use the roadside
assistance program.

[KidDynomite]

Well, I never could get the oil drain plug to bust loose. I don't have a torch to use and didn't get the locks yet.

Bottom line was, I removed the oil filter then syphoned the oil out the oil fill. Messy and long job, but at least I was able to get fresh oil in it.

Will be ordering a new drain plug and once it comes in, will have to dealer change the oil and put the new plug in.

NOTE: My dealer didn't have filters available when it came time for my first change. Any chance this plug fouling is why they have you change it so soon initially? I wonder what role my delay in the initial oil change had in the drain sitting so hard?

[Keys]

I really doubt your tardiness had anything at all to do with your drainplug issue, Kid...don't beat yourself up about it. You got the oil changed through diligence, imagination and hard work. You should be proud of yourself.

--Keys

[ericalm]

NOTE: My dealer didn't have filters available when it came time for my first change. Any chance this plug fouling is why they have you change it so soon initially? I wonder what role my delay in the initial oil change had in the drain sitting so hard?

Early first oil change is pretty standard. Basically, a lot of crap—little specs of metal and so on—from the manufacturing process comes loose during your first 300 or so miles and finds its way in there.

[BlueMark]

I've freaking rounded off the nut ... Any suggestions??

Motorcycle.com 'how to'

IRWIN Bolt Grip Bolt Remover Set

-Mark