Deadlights to The 12v Charger

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 10:10 pm

I'm in the process of trying to hook up the deadlights to the 12v cellphone charger thing. Has anyone tried this? Does it work?

I hope so. I have the scooter in pieces right now, so I can't start it up for testing. I've got all the wires just about hooked up (I need to get some male/female power connectors still), so I'm really hoping this work hasn't been for nothing.

I wanted to do it this way because it allows me to hook things up without splicing into the stock electrical system and void my warranty.

ed85379 · Post by **ed85379** » Thu Jul 21, 2011 11:00 pm

The 12v charger port is always-on, so if you use that, you better also install a switch, or your deadlights will be turned on 24x7.

AtlBuddy · Post by **AtlBuddy** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 12:57 am

Yep. That's right. You need a switch. I wired my underlighting to the charger socket and put a switch in on the top of bin plastic so I could easily flip the switch on and off while it was still concealed. Good luck!

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:50 am

ed85379 wrote:The 12v charger port is always-on, so if you use that, you better also install a switch, or your deadlights will be turned on 24x7.

I got a switch, just in case. Guess I'll be using it! The thing I'm worried about now is that when I tested it with a voltage meter I didn't get any reading...

Thanks for the helpful information!

ed85379 · Post by **ed85379** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 1:54 am

I am also pretty sure that installing a power tap clip thingy doesn't in any way void the warranty. You can easily tap the wire which is only on with the ignition. That's how it works with Lil Buddy's adapter which he sells.

I mean, sure, if something fries the electrical system, your Buddy dealer may question all of your wiring, but it shouldn't void anything else.

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:50 am

ed85379 wrote:I am also pretty sure that installing a power tap clip thingy doesn't in any way void the warranty. You can easily tap the wire which is only on with the ignition. That's how it works with Lil Buddy's adapter which he sells.

I mean, sure, if something fries the electrical system, your Buddy dealer may question all of your wiring, but it shouldn't void anything else.

I kind of agree, but I'd rather play it safe, especially since I'm dealing with the 170i, which has a much more complicated electrical system. Just finding that wire in the mess of wires would be difficult.

At any rate, I solved the mystery of the powerless cellphone charger-- somehow in my puttering about, I must have blown the fuse.

Lil Buddy · Post by **Lil Buddy** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 4:06 am

jonlink wrote: I kind of agree, but I'd rather play it safe, especially since I'm dealing with the 170i, which has a much more complicated electrical system. Just finding that wire in the mess of wires would be difficult.

Any chance you could post a few pics of the wiring behind the front cover?

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 11:05 am

Lil Buddy wrote:
jonlink wrote: I kind of agree, but I'd rather play it safe, especially since I'm dealing with the 170i, which has a much more complicated electrical system. Just finding that wire in the mess of wires would be difficult.
Any chance you could post a few pics of the wiring behind the front cover?

Maybe. what it's worth to you? (^_^) Kidding... yes, I was actually planning on it. The only problem is that it really is a mess. I think I'll just have to take a zoomed out high-res photo. I'll post it as soon as I can.

EDIT: Finally finished wiring it up and closed everything in the front up. I put a very discreet rocker switch in and now it works wonderfully. Thanks again @ed85379 for letting me know that I needed the switch.

@Lil Buddy, I'll be uploading pics once I either get my new computer or get my boxes (just moved) with my camera battery charger. The battery died right as I was trying to take them off the camera.

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:16 am

Lil Buddy wrote:
jonlink wrote: I kind of agree, but I'd rather play it safe, especially since I'm dealing with the 170i, which has a much more complicated electrical system. Just finding that wire in the mess of wires would be difficult.
Any chance you could post a few pics of the wiring behind the front cover?

Here are the photos. Hope it helps you.
FYI, the red wires running down the far-right are ones I put there.

Tocsik · Post by **Tocsik** » Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:15 pm

I still think the best route is hooking up to the horn wire. That way, the lights only have power with the ignition on. I did that but also added a switch so that the LED's don't get power when starting the scooter and I can leave them off in the Winter when I run my heated grips.

Just wondering why you would hook up to an "always-on" circuit. There is the potential for passing idiots to flip the switch and drain your battery.

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:07 am

Tocsik wrote:I still think the best route is hooking up to the horn wire. That way, the lights only have power with the ignition on. I did that but also added a switch so that the LED's don't get power when starting the scooter and I can leave them off in the Winter when I run my heated grips.

Just wondering why you would hook up to an "always-on" circuit. There is the potential for passing idiots to flip the switch and drain your battery.

I hooked it up to the charger because it was the easiest to access without permanently altering any of the electrical system. I installed the switch just below the charger, so you'd need to really get in there to see the switch. I'd be more than a little surprised if anyone walking past, or even casually checking it out, would find it. I guess time will tell.

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Mon Aug 08, 2011 9:03 pm

A follow-up: I just heard from Genuine that using that tap style wire splitter will in fact void the warranty.

update: this is what Genuine told me

There is a chance that you could tap into the 12 volt outlet (cell phone charger) because it has a built in fuse that will protect the wires from being overloaded. The other existing issue is the current bulbs that ship in the "deadlights" are 10 watts a piece so combined there will 20 watts which is almost a headlight. You will have to install lower wattage bulbs like 5 watts which will still give you good visibility. You may also be able to find L.E.D. style bulbs in the same size which use very little power and are actually brighter than standard. I attached a picture of a connector that you can attach in line at the back of the outlets positive and wont require cutting/splicing.