Modern Buddy

So I lost another rear-rack. Once again, the center screw hole split, and then eventually the two halves of it broke free.

This last time though, on Friday, the weight of my top-case ripped the two side screws right out of their holes, stripping the holes in the process. This happens because with the rear-rack, in addition to the cowl protectors, there is only about 3/4cm of threads left on the long bolts, nowhere near enough to hold on with a sudden angled tug backwards.

So I was hoping the holes weren't stripped, and I bought new longer bolts for the holes, but I couldn't get them to tighten. Underneath, these holes are in caps in pipes connected to the frame, so you can't attach nuts to the undersides either.

So, I went to Home Depot and picked up a tap and die kit, for one size larger, 3/8in (from the original 8mm). I got home and checked first the rack holes (I got a new rack already), and the 3/8 bolts wouldn't fit. So I used the tap kit to thread those holes and got the bolts to fit.

Finally, I went outside to tap the holes in the scooter. And in the process of tapping the first one, the tap BROKE, permanently lodging itself in the bolt hole. Supposedly hardened steel, and I shattered it with my bare hands. Yeah, I've been working out, but apparently I'm Superman or something.

*sigh*

So at this point I had to remove the cowl protectors, which makes getting it onto the center stand a real challenge.

The only thing I can think to do at this point is bring the scooter to a real mechanic (not the scooter dealer), and see if they can drill the tap out and re-tap it, or if not, cut off the bolt-cap and weld on a new one.

Oh, and to top it all off, I looked inside, and that center bolt is staring to tear again too. So I either need to buy another new part for that, or ask the mechanics to weld that too.

For those who don't remember, here is my previous post regarding my rear rack center bolt: viewtopic.php?t=21345

are you carrying lead bricks in there?

I kept a wary eye on mine after your first post and so far no issues...(knock on wood)

I had the same thing happen with mine. Split at the center hole, then one side of the flat piece broke off on its own. I was able to simply bend the other side off. I went and got a 1 by 1 piece of wood cut it to the width of the rack and added some washers under the center to raise it so the rack rested on it. Then drilled a couple holes near the sides and used zip ties to hold it snug to the rack. Now when that weakens or starts to splinter I can simply replace the piece of wood.

The only thing I can think of to prevent those things from splitting is to use rubber washer to try and absorb the vibrations that I think are causing the splits. Mine split and the piece broke off both with out any load on the rack.

dsmith65 wrote:The only thing I can think of to prevent those things from splitting is to use rubber washer to try and absorb the vibrations that I think are causing the splits. Mine split and the piece broke off both with out any load on the rack.

Having picked up a new rack, for the first time not having the shop install it for me, I discovered that it indeed does come with a rubber washer for the center bolt. And I am pretty sure that the shop left that off the other times they've installed the thing for me. They also didn't use the lock-washers that came with it for the side bolts. Then again, these is so little play left after going through the cowl protectors as well, I can't blame them too much for that.

I had the center hole brake on both sides. welded it back together and it was stronger than original.

had both front mounts strip. Used angle grinder to remove tops of tubes/ threaded cup. and welded on a M8 flanged nut, upside down. works great, though i need to get some longer bolts. The rack comes with 48mm bolts i believe and i only had 40mm lying around. I'll post pics up when i find them.


-duo

Pictures? I'm missing what you guys are explaining here. I have the rear rack, with the genuine hard case, and haven't had any problems. Have you tried an easy out on the tap that is stuck?

rsrider wrote:Pictures? I'm missing what you guys are explaining here. I have the rear rack, with the genuine hard case, and haven't had any problems. Have you tried an easy out on the tap that is stuck?

I don't have an easy-out, whatever that is. My tool collection is minimal, hense I will have to go to a mechanic. That is probably what they will try to use first. Then hopefully they can finish tapping it properly and then do the other side too.

All this BS is exactly what's keeping me from buying a rear rack... not worth the hassle!!

phatch wrote:All this BS is exactly what's keeping me from buying a rear rack... not worth the hassle!!

It clearly *is* worth the hassle to have the extra storage space of a top-case. Otherwise, I would have given up awhile ago. I need somewhere to store my rain suit, and my second helmet. That second helmet is a necessity for when I need to give a ride to a pretty lady.

ed85379 wrote: second helmet. That second helmet is a necessity for when I need to give a ride to a pretty lady.

The obvious #1 reason.....

I have gotten around that by keeping the spare helmet at her house.

I have had rear racks and top cases, and platforms and never had any issues in over 9,000 miles and on 3 Buddys (6K on one, 2.5K on another, and 1K on the 3rd).

I'm wondering, seriously, if it's that you have the top case AND give rides.

I've only done 2 up on my Buddys 3 times, but none of the times have I had a top case on there. I'm wondering if the issue is not just that you have the weight of the top case on your rack, but that you periodically have someone leaning back against the top case, putting (whether they mean to or not) a lot of force down on the rack itself.

Just my 2 cents...and maybe worth that much.

michelle_7728 wrote:I have had rear racks and top cases, and platforms and never had any issues in over 9,000 miles and on 3 Buddys (6K on one, 2.5K on another, and 1K on the 3rd).

I'm wondering, seriously, if it's that you have the top case AND give rides.

I've only done 2 up on my Buddys 3 times, but none of the times have I had a top case on there. I'm wondering if the issue is not just that you have the weight of the top case on your rack, but that you periodically have someone leaning back against the top case, putting (whether they mean to or not) a lot of force down on the rack itself.

Just my 2 cents...and maybe worth that much.

Nope. She isn't leaning against the case. The problem is apparently incorrect installs without the vibration-dampening washer and lock-nuts, the rack bolts not being long enough in combination with the cowl protectors, and the absolutely horrendous Boston roads.

You can pick up longer bolts for the rack--I did since I have the cowel protecters on there top.

Mine have never come with a rubber washer. I wonder if that's something they just started...?

michelle_7728 wrote:You can pick up longer bolts for the rack--I did since I have the cowel protecters on there top.

Mine have never come with a rubber washer. I wonder if that's something they just started...?

I intend to, once I can get the holes fixed.

The rubber washer is for the center bolt, not the side. The lock-nuts are for the side bolts.

ed85379 wrote:

michelle_7728 wrote:You can pick up longer bolts for the rack--I did since I have the cowel protecters on there top.

Mine have never come with a rubber washer. I wonder if that's something they just started...?

The rubber washer is for the center bolt, not the side. The lock-nuts are for the side bolts.

Understood. Mine didn't come with a rubber washer. I think it did come with a hard plastic spacer, but no rubber washer.

So to update this thread, my scooter is fixed.

I brought it to a mechanic, a regular mechanic that is, not a scooter one. They welded a couple of 8mm nuts (the original thread) into the spots where the original bolt holes were. They also welded up around the center bolt in the back that was starting to tear out again.

I got slightly longer bolts, with hex heads for easier tightening than the original alan-wrench heads. I used the locknuts and the rubber washer. So far, everything seems nice and sturdy. We'll see how long it lasts.