[FIXED] speedometer not showing speed.. everything else OK

[bimbom]

I noticed this the other day - my speedometer needle doesn't move!

I must have hit a big pothole and rattled something loose? I checked on the forums here and could not find a similar issue but if so please let me know.

Everything else works fine and it's running as normal.

Is this a mechanical or electronic issue?
How can I fix?

[BuddyRaton]

Mechanical issue.

Check the cable connection at the hub and if that's not it check the connection under the headset.

[Robbie]

I noticed this the other day - my speedometer needle doesn't move!

I must have hit a big pothole and rattled something loose? I checked on the forums here and could not find a similar issue but if so please let me know.

Everything else works fine and it's running as normal.

Is this a mechanical or electronic issue?
How can I fix?

I am interpeting your question as the speedometer doesn't work but the ODOMETER is still advancing.
If this is so, then the speedometer portion of the head unit has failed internally.
If, however, the odometer is NOT advancing as well as no speed readout, then you may have a broken speedo cable or a stripped gear in the speedometer gearbox at the wheel.

Rob

[PIStaker]

I noticed this the other day - my speedometer needle doesn't move!

I must have hit a big pothole and rattled something loose? I checked on the forums here and could not find a similar issue but if so please let me know.

Everything else works fine and it's running as normal.

Is this a mechanical or electronic issue?
How can I fix?

I am interpeting your question as the speedometer doesn't work but the ODOMETER is still advancing.
If this is so, then the speedometer portion of the head unit has failed internally.
If, however, the odometer is NOT advancing as well as no speed readout, then you may have a broken speedo cable or a stripped gear in the speedometer gearbox at the wheel.

Rob

...you and your silly theories. Sounds like something a pilot would say. Lol. Sorry for hi-jacking your thread there for the moment.
Plus 1 on what Rob said.

[bimbom]

I noticed this the other day - my speedometer needle doesn't move!

I must have hit a big pothole and rattled something loose? I checked on the forums here and could not find a similar issue but if so please let me know.

Everything else works fine and it's running as normal.

Is this a mechanical or electronic issue?
How can I fix?

I am interpeting your question as the speedometer doesn't work but the ODOMETER is still advancing.
If this is so, then the speedometer portion of the head unit has failed internally.
If, however, the odometer is NOT advancing as well as no speed readout, then you may have a broken speedo cable or a stripped gear in the speedometer gearbox at the wheel.

Rob

Thanks Rob, I will have to double check about the odometer. The speedometer gearbox is the little black circular piece on the right of the front wheel?

Also what is the process of getting to the connecting cable? I've taken the front panel off before to do things, but I don't recall having access to the gauges from there.

[PeteH]

Yeah, please confirm whether or not the odometer is part of the 'everything else still functioning'

As noted above, if the speedo is fritzed but the odo works, then the problem is in the speedo head. However, if both don't work, it's sounding more like the cable.

The easy part of the cable check is at the front wheel. Check the collar where the cable meets the wheel-hub unit. If it gets loose, the cable's square tip backs out of the sending unit's socket and the speedo reads zero. If the cable is connected properly at the wheel, the problem is either in the speedo or the cable's internal wire is snapped. Either way, getting up in there is a whole lot of not-fun.

If the odometer is still turning, the cable is good.

[jmazza]

Also what is the process of getting to the connecting cable? I've taken the front panel off before to do things, but I don't recall having access to the gauges from there.

To get to it at the speedo itself, you don't remove the front panel at all. You'll need to take the top and bottom of the headset apart. There are four screws underneath the headset (I believe only those four). Remove those and then you begin a tedious process of unhooking some plastic tabs from each other to get the top half to separate from the bottom. The tabs are, of course, easy to break so go slowly.

Once you have the headset freed, you'll notice that the top won't move very far up (mostly due to the speedo cable). So I've always found it much easier to reattach the cable at the speedo and then put everything back together and attach it to the hub at the wheel. You have to be careful because the cable will slip right out of the sheath and it's just plain not too fun to work with.

[bimbom]

Yeah, please confirm whether or not the odometer is part of the 'everything else still functioning'

As noted above, if the speedo is fritzed but the odo works, then the problem is in the speedo head. However, if both don't work, it's sounding more like the cable.

The easy part of the cable check is at the front wheel. Check the collar where the cable meets the wheel-hub unit. If it gets loose, the cable's square tip backs out of the sending unit's socket and the speedo reads zero. If the cable is connected properly at the wheel, the problem is either in the speedo or the cable's internal wire is snapped. Either way, getting up in there is a whole lot of not-fun.

If the odometer is still turning, the cable is good.

Ok checked the odometer and it is NOT rolling. Sorry didn't mention that. I looked at the cable that goes down to the gearbox on the front wheel. THe "rubber capsule" part of it near where it connects was indeed off the metal connector. I tried to push it back on but it doesn't seem like it fits. How do I get it back on tight?

[jmazza]

Yeah, please confirm whether or not the odometer is part of the 'everything else still functioning'

As noted above, if the speedo is fritzed but the odo works, then the problem is in the speedo head. However, if both don't work, it's sounding more like the cable.

The easy part of the cable check is at the front wheel. Check the collar where the cable meets the wheel-hub unit. If it gets loose, the cable's square tip backs out of the sending unit's socket and the speedo reads zero. If the cable is connected properly at the wheel, the problem is either in the speedo or the cable's internal wire is snapped. Either way, getting up in there is a whole lot of not-fun.

If the odometer is still turning, the cable is good.

Ok checked the odometer and it is NOT rolling. Sorry didn't mention that. I looked at the cable that goes down to the gearbox on the front wheel. THe "rubber capsule" part of it near where it connects was indeed off the metal connector. I tried to push it back on but it doesn't seem like it fits. How do I get it back on tight?

Both ends twist/screw on. It's not just a push or snap connector, if I recall.

[BuddyRaton]

It screws on. Loctite blue is your friend!

[chas]

Also what is the process of getting to the connecting cable? I've taken the front panel off before to do things, but I don't recall having access to the gauges from there.

To get to it at the speedo itself, you don't remove the front panel at all. You'll need to take the top and bottom of the headset apart. There are four screws underneath the headset (I believe only those four). Remove those and then you begin a tedious process of unhooking some plastic tabs from each other to get the top half to separate from the bottom. The tabs are, of course, easy to break so go slowly.

Once you have the headset freed, you'll notice that the top won't move very far up (mostly due to the speedo cable). So I've always found it much easier to reattach the cable at the speedo and then put everything back together and attach it to the hub at the wheel. You have to be careful because the cable will slip right out of the sheath and it's just plain not too fun to work with.

I know the problem has already been addressed, but for anybody else reading this portion, there is also the screw at the top of the headlight that needs to come out before you can get the headpiece off.

I don't mean to split hairs, the only reason I bring this up is because I couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing open last weekend whenI was trying to get my brake lever out to fix. It was that stupid headlight screw that I was missing haha!

[bimbom]

That is the front wheel where the cable meets the speedometer gearbox. Is this what is supposed to be threaded on? I tried and it doesn't do anything.

Or is it the other end of the cable that screws on?

[jmazza]

I know the problem has already been addressed, but for anybody else reading this portion, there is also the screw at the top of the headlight that needs to come out before you can get the headpiece off.

I don't mean to split hairs, the only reason I bring this up is because I couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing open last weekend whenI was trying to get my brake lever out to fix. It was that stupid headlight screw that I was missing haha!

Oh that's right that's the one that holds the silver ring on, correct? Yeah that needs to come off first!

And bimbom, yeah it has to be screwed on at both ends. There at the wheel in your picture and under the actual speedo in the headset. That's the not fun part!!

[bimbom]

I know the problem has already been addressed, but for anybody else reading this portion, there is also the screw at the top of the headlight that needs to come out before you can get the headpiece off.

I don't mean to split hairs, the only reason I bring this up is because I couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing open last weekend whenI was trying to get my brake lever out to fix. It was that stupid headlight screw that I was missing haha!

Oh that's right that's the one that holds the silver ring on, correct? Yeah that needs to come off first!

And bimbom, yeah it has to be screwed on at both ends. There at the wheel in your picture and under the actual speedo in the headset. That's the not fun part!!

I'm not exactly sure how to screw the rubber piece on. It seems more like a protective cap than something that screws on. When I try it just seems too small to actually fit the metal part.

[Robbie]

I know the problem has already been addressed, but for anybody else reading this portion, there is also the screw at the top of the headlight that needs to come out before you can get the headpiece off.

I don't mean to split hairs, the only reason I bring this up is because I couldn't figure out how to get the damn thing open last weekend whenI was trying to get my brake lever out to fix. It was that stupid headlight screw that I was missing haha!

Oh that's right that's the one that holds the silver ring on, correct? Yeah that needs to come off first!

And bimbom, yeah it has to be screwed on at both ends. There at the wheel in your picture and under the actual speedo in the headset. That's the not fun part!!

I'm not exactly sure how to screw the rubber piece on. It seems more like a protective cap than something that screws on. When I try it just seems too small to actually fit the metal part.

The serrated part, at the gearbox, is part of the speedo cable.
If your cable terminates at the rubber sleve and the serrated barrel is still attached, then the cable housing has been torn in two.
If you look inside the rubber part, there should be a cable looking at you.

Based, again, on your description, you have me believing the cable and housing has been damaged.
If this is the case, you need a replacement cable and housing (housing is the sheath the cable is inserted into).
It comes as a assembly with the serrated ends attached.

Rob

[bimbom]

Oh that's right that's the one that holds the silver ring on, correct? Yeah that needs to come off first!

And bimbom, yeah it has to be screwed on at both ends. There at the wheel in your picture and under the actual speedo in the headset. That's the not fun part!!

I'm not exactly sure how to screw the rubber piece on. It seems more like a protective cap than something that screws on. When I try it just seems too small to actually fit the metal part.

The serrated part, at the gearbox, is part of the speedo cable.
If your cable terminates at the rubber sleve and the serrated barrel is still attached, then the cable housing has been torn in two.
If you look inside the rubber part, there should be a cable looking at you.

Based, again, on your description, you have me believing the cable and housing has been damaged.
If this is the case, you need a replacement cable and housing (housing is the sheath the cable is inserted into).
It comes as a assembly with the serrated ends attached.

Rob

Ok here's another picture that shows it. It doesn't look like anything is broken here.. only that the rubber capsule thing is loose. Maybe its the other end thats disconnected?

Sorry for the badpicture (I took it at night with flash):

[Robbie]

Unscrew the cable (serrated nut) from the wheel gearbox.
Lift the cable housing away.....there should be a cable inside the housing sticking out a half inch or so....it'll have a square end.

Scooter on centerstand, front wheel jacked up off the ground a bit, spin the wheel as though going forward and watch the female square drive in the speedo cable transmission.
It should turn.
Insert a small screwdriver into the square drive at the gearbox......while allowing the screwdriver to spin while turning the wheel, apply a bit of resistance to the handle and continue to turn the tire.
If you find the screwdriver stops turning at some point while the wheel is still being turned, the speedometer driven gear has stripped in the gearbox.
I don't know if the gear is replaceable on the buddy....you may have to replace the gearbox itself.......a buddy owner will chime in on this one.

If the driven gear (your screwdriver) continued to turn with no problems, then the cable has broken in the housing or the serrated nut up at the speedo head has come off and allowed the cable to drop off the instrument or......the instrument has failed internally......I would consider that unlikely but not impossible.....odds are it is in the cable or a disconnected cable if the gearbox tested OK.

Rob

[bimbom]

Unscrew the cable (serrated nut) from the wheel gearbox.
Lift the cable housing away.....there should be a cable inside the housing sticking out a half inch or so....it'll have a square end.

Scooter on centerstand, front wheel jacked up off the ground a bit, spin the wheel as though going forward and watch the female square drive in the speedo cable transmission.
It should turn.
Insert a small screwdriver into the square drive at the gearbox......while allowing the screwdriver to spin while turning the wheel, apply a bit of resistance to the handle and continue to turn the tire.
If you find the screwdriver stops turning at some point while the wheel is still being turned, the speedometer driven gear has stripped in the gearbox.
I don't know if the gear is replaceable on the buddy....you may have to replace the gearbox itself.......a buddy owner will chime in on this one.

If the driven gear (your screwdriver) continued to turn with no problems, then the cable has broken in the housing or the serrated nut up at the speedo head has come off and allowed the cable to drop off the instrument or......the instrument has failed internally......I would consider that unlikely but not impossible.....odds are it is in the cable or a disconnected cable if the gearbox tested OK.

Rob

This is what it looks like when I removed the housing.. Does this look normal? Also it seems this inner wire can be pulled out quite a bit.. Maybe it's disconnected on the head side, and ok at the wheel?

[jmazza]

Your short link didn't work as an image tag so I tried to change it to the full link but, for some reason, the dropbox image isn't working as an image link.

I was able to view the picture though and it's most definitely either detached from the headset or broken, or both. See if you can get it connected under the headset and if the cable still pulls out that much when it is for sure connected up top, it's broken.

[bimbom]

Your short link didn't work as an image tag so I tried to change it to the full link but, for some reason, the dropbox image isn't working as an image link.

I was able to view the picture though and it's most definitely either detached from the headset or broken, or both. See if you can get it connected under the headset and if the cable still pulls out that much when it is for sure connected up top, it's broken.

Well now I know not to post from an iphone anymore

I put the square end into the gearbox and spun the front wheel. I saw the cable turning. Then I held the square end with a plier and some resistance.. the wheel wouldn't turn which means the gearbox is not stripped?

I think the above is a better test than using a small screwdriver, because a small screwdriver may be too small, and doesn't have the same square head.. thus would lead you to believe the gearbox is stripped even when it's not.


So... this seems as though the cable is just disconnected at the head? Can someone provide me instructions on how to access that, and reconnect it?

Thanks:)

[jmazza]

Also what is the process of getting to the connecting cable? I've taken the front panel off before to do things, but I don't recall having access to the gauges from there.

To get to it at the speedo itself, you don't remove the front panel at all. You'll need to take the top and bottom of the headset apart. First, remove the silver headlight ring by removing the single screw at the top and gently releasing the tabs. Then, there are four very recessed screws underneath the headset. Remove those and then you begin a tedious process of unhooking some more plastic tabs from each other to get the top half to separate from the bottom. The tabs are, of course, easy to break so go slowly.

Once you have the headset freed, you'll notice that the top won't move very far up (mostly due to the speedo cable). So I've always found it much easier to reattach the cable at the speedo and then put everything back together and attach it to the hub at the wheel. You have to be careful because the cable will slip right out of the sheath and it's just plain not too fun to work with.

There you go. It's really not that difficult, just a pain.

[bimbom]

Also what is the process of getting to the connecting cable? I've taken the front panel off before to do things, but I don't recall having access to the gauges from there.

To get to it at the speedo itself, you don't remove the front panel at all. You'll need to take the top and bottom of the headset apart. First, remove the silver headlight ring by removing the single screw at the top and gently releasing the tabs. Then, there are four very recessed screws underneath the headset. Remove those and then you begin a tedious process of unhooking some more plastic tabs from each other to get the top half to separate from the bottom. The tabs are, of course, easy to break so go slowly.

Once you have the headset freed, you'll notice that the top won't move very far up (mostly due to the speedo cable). So I've always found it much easier to reattach the cable at the speedo and then put everything back together and attach it to the hub at the wheel. You have to be careful because the cable will slip right out of the sheath and it's just plain not too fun to work with.

There you go. It's really not that difficult, just a pain.

Fixed!

The problem was the head-end of the speed cable had come out. I actually didn't think the job was that annoying.. actually kind of fun.



Thanks all for the help.

[BuddyRaton]

Congrats on a cheap repair! Well done!

Mechanical issue.

Check the cable connection at the hub and if that's not it check the connection under the headset.

Called that one about 25 mins after the first post! May be a new record for me!

[JettaKnight]

The problem was the head-end of the speed cable had come out. I actually didn't think the job was that annoying. actually kind of fun.

I'll be sure to call you. Actually, it's a lot easier if you disconnect the lower end so you have some extra play in the sheath. Otherwise, you must squeeze you hand in a tighten it.

I suggest a drop of blue loctite on the top if it come free again.