Modern Buddy

Can anyone direct me to a link or someone that has info about performance mods?
I want to start on a build path (what mods to do first) intake, rejetting, exhaust, advance ignition timing or cdi replacement. I don't want to put a big block kit in yet, I like the idea ofhaving the reliability of the stock motor but I know there must be some experience in what we get out this motor. I like bang for the buck mods. I also think that there is a limit to what we can build without a larger displacement motor... thanks, tex.

The search feature will be your best friend on this one..
I have moded my scooter a lot.

30mm carb
Custom intake/pod filter
larger intake
Large valve head
61mm piston
CVT kit
Sliders 12g
CDI "Ncy"
Exhaust "prima"


The trans parts give the biggest bang for the buck

The stock motor will be the most reliable in the stock form

Ive tried asking almost the exact same thing. The info just isnt out here. Even trying manufactuers sites are useless. Even high end parts like airsol have dick for even the most basic info on their parts. Its pathetic. I tried to find all the specification on the buddy 50 and that was a crap shoot. Scooter Works is useless unless you dont care about knowing what youre buying. Sorry man. At least project 49 has videos on youtube but he isnt as helpful as i'd like. He had a video on how to put a 70cc BBK on and it was helpful but doesnt tell you what the tourque spec is on the bolts, kind of extremely important. He has a video series on carb tuning but doesn't show what they do on the actual scooter.

I wish you luck but it's a crap shoot man. My dealer suggests going bigger carb first. Yet I've seen online that it's pointless on a stock motor.

I would start with the CVT
Then move to the Exhaust, then intake/ rejet

Once you move to the BBK you could do the large head large intake and carb.

I found the CDI did not do much for me just made me feel better.

Thanks for the input. Like the other member with the 50cc wrote in this thread, its difficult to know how to learn what to learn first... haha.
I've got 4 other scoots so I'm not totaly new. Most of my work has been in restoration and maintenance. So I know the language but have a limited vocabulary.
Forum searches are great... but detailed "how's and whys" come from experience... and study. Cvt tuning is new to me. So I guess ill focus there. Thanks.

Search for voodoo

I like to look at the Ruckus guys as well they do some crazy stuff..

Total engine swaps.. The motor on the buddy is a form of GY6 " Motor Code" SO a lot of the theory works..

I will say a 30mm Carb might be over kill and if I had to do it again I would either do a Fuel Injection kit or a 28mm carb.

I am toying with installing a stroker crank and if I do that I will do a motor build thread for everyone.

I've also thought that the 30mm carb was a bit much, so i'm still running the stock carb.

Did you loose any driveability in the low end of the throttle, or are you a 2 speed rider ( WOT and off)?


-duo

NeoGenesisMax wrote:Ive tried asking almost the exact same thing. The info just isnt out here. Even trying manufactuers sites are useless. Even high end parts like airsol have dick for even the most basic info on their parts. Its pathetic. I tried to find all the specification on the buddy 50 and that was a crap shoot. Scooter Works is useless unless you dont care about knowing what youre buying. Sorry man. At least project 49 has videos on youtube but he isnt as helpful as i'd like. He had a video on how to put a 70cc BBK on and it was helpful but doesnt tell you what the tourque spec is on the bolts, kind of extremely important. He has a video series on carb tuning but doesn't show what they do on the actual scooter.

I wish you luck but it's a crap shoot man. My dealer suggests going bigger carb first. Yet I've seen online that it's pointless on a stock motor.

Neo, you have a horizontal minarelli with a 10mm wrist pin. Just about any kit will work. Some of the zuma parts have an oddly clocked exhaust port. I'm pretty sure vino stuff works. You could ask spr0k3t what kit and exhaust he used because the roughhouse stuff is the same. Changing the carb will most likely require running a new cable. The exhaust might not line up perfectly but drilling mounting bracket holes is trivial Its not that cheap to mod a 50cc for long life. I wouldn't bother with an airsal kit. Malossi kits are considered the most durable. Although I wouldn't mind running an NCY kit as mine seemed well made. I'd probably go with a leo vince SP3 or something similar as it won't be as peaky as a full expansion chamber. The zuma forums have gobs of information most of which will transfer to the buddy. You could run a sport/street ported cylinder on your stock carb as long as you don't run it hard. We went on the back alley ride last year and the kitted 50cc 2t's had problems. The italjet seized and the super 9 overheated. The Vespa lx 50 couldn't keep up.

For the 125cc there is loads of info available its simply a matter a figuring out separating what generic information does and does not apply. Throwback has a 150/171cc buddy. The 150cc has a shorter stroke and a 15mm wrist pin. The 125 has a longer stroke and 13mm wrist pin. The 13mm wrist pin limits the number of available big bore kits. Stroker cranks are available. Cranks are pressed together and preassembled with bearings. The only issue I've heard of is the splines are too short and kick start ring doesn't have enough room to grip them. I understand that this part can be doweled and pressed onto the variator. The RRGS and taida cranks will work as well has the generic ones. I've seen 3,4,6, and 8.2mm. The buddy 125 has a 60mm crank which is in GY6 terms is a stroker. The 150cc is a 58mm throw. The long stroke is what makes the 125 feel more powerful in the low and mid range. The 125 camshaft gear has 32 teeth, the 150cc has 34 teeth. Any decent machine shop can press either gear off and back on provided they properly index the cam. Just about any 58.5 or 61 mm head will bolt onto either buddy. Make sure the cam height is unchanged as some heads are taller. Both the NCY 58.5 and 61mm big valve will work. The stock valves are 24/21mm NCY big valve is 27/23mm. There are bigger valve heads available like the ones from taida that have 30/25mm, make sure the head bolt spacing is 54mm as taida makes some B case stuff that is 57mm. Generally speaking the bigger the cam,valves and porting the higher the powerband will be. The stock carb is pretty good, its a keihin 26mm cvk. It takes the Keihin 7mm jet which is part no 99101-116-"insert jet number here". Which also happens to be the honda part number if you need a jet from a local place. This jets interchange with the keihin PB16 and 17.5mm found on the buddy 50 and roughhouse. Pilot jets are available as well. These are generally only needed if the idle mix screw is unresponsive. Some years the main jet requires a carburetor dtool on you can use a 22lr casing and make one and once you get it out cut a slot in the end with a dremel. The prima pipe IMO is the best pipe available for the buddy although NCY makes one as well. You can however purchase a header and fit a slip on like the ruckus guys assembly required. The stock transmission parts are plenty durable for modest upgrades. The clutch springs are generic GY6, the rollers are 18x14. I tried a yellow contra spring with 11 gram sliders and found RPM s far too high. The 11 grams are great off the line or with a stock size engine but with a big bore and mods I eventually switched to a mix of 3 11's and 3 13's. For a net of 12 gram weights. I lost a touch of off the line power but it picked up strong after 10mph. Trans tuning is a matter of trying different combos. In a mostly stock scoot the contra spring and roller weights have largely the same effect. Bikes with more power require a stiffer contra to prevent belt slippage. I use a cordless impact I can change oil and rollers in 15 minutes. Eventually I plan to upgrade to the NCY super transmission kit(again the one labeled "GY6"). The clutch springs are not interchangeable however I believe the vino 125 springs will work in the NCY clutch. I really like the Dr pulley clutch but it requires more tuning and it cost $430 for a clutch and variator.

Cheap
Fast
Reliable

Pick two.

The best bang for the buck is a small windshield

BuddyRaton wrote:Cheap
Fast
Reliable

Pick two.

The best bang for the buck is a small windshield

ProTip: Suck it up and never pick Cheap. It's all but given that you'll pay for it later.

az_slynch wrote:

BuddyRaton wrote:Cheap
Fast
Reliable

Pick two.

The best bang for the buck is a small windshield

ProTip: Suck it up and never pick Cheap. It's all but given that you'll pay for it later.

I fully agree! That pep 3 hurt...but...what are ya gonna do!

BuddyRaton wrote:I fully agree! That pep 3 hurt...but...what are ya gonna do!

Haul butt?

I want a report on the PEP 3.0 man. The angles and welds looked kinda weird, but if it gets the job done, who cares?

BuddyRaton wrote:Cheap
Fast
Reliable

Pick two.

The best bang for the buck is a small windshield

For me the best bang was weight loss. 65 lbs and counting!

Best bang for the buck is actually to take a dremel to the head, clean up the ports and PROPERLY work the valve seats. But if you don't know what you are doing, don't even think of doing this yourself!

SYMbionic Duo wrote:

BuddyRaton wrote:Cheap
Fast
Reliable

Pick two.

The best bang for the buck is a small windshield

For me the best bang was weight loss. 65 lbs and counting!

Best bang for the buck is actually to take a dremel to the head, clean up the ports and PROPERLY work the valve seats. But if you don't know what you are doing, don't even think of doing this yourself!

My scoot boogies with my 140lb friend on it. I weigh 245lb without gear. Probably close to 255lb with gear and clothes. I forgot to put head porting in my post. I have a decent grinding setup. I worked 1 year as a hand finisher in a tire mold factory. I'm decent with a grinder. I just finished gutting my garage and plan to install cabinets, countertops, and epoxy the floor. When I'm done I'll be blacking out the chrome trim and wheels and then moving onto a port and polish on an NCY big valve head.

lovemysan wrote: Neo, you have a horizontal minarelli with a 10mm wrist pin. Just about any kit will work....

TLDR

PM'ed you