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Buddy painting recommendations?

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:41 am
by mwynko
So, I've recently inherited a pink Buddy 125 from my aunt. I'm currently working on getting it up and running after it had been sitting in her barn over the winter.

My biggest issue is that it's pink, and I would like it to not be pink anymore. Getting it professionally painted isn't an idea that my wallet would appreciate.

Does anyone know of any specific paints I should be using, or any painting tips in general for scooters?

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 2:59 am
by babblefish
Both Krylon and Rustoleum make rattle can paints specifically for plastic. I've used both and like both though Rustoleum seems to be a bit more durable at the expense of taking longer to fully set (about a week).
For best results, remove all of the panels you want to paint then wipe them down really well with a plastic safe solvent to remove any wax or silicones. Wet sand to give the primer a good surface to adhere to. Use a sandable primer then wet sand again to get a smooth surface. Prime and sand again if needed. Lay down the color coat in multiple thin coats rather than 1 or 2 thick coats to minimize runs. Let each coat "tack up" before spraying the next coat, but don't wait more than an hour before the next coat.
After letting the final coat dry for at least a week, rub it down with rubbing compound then wax. It's a lot of work and it probably won't be "automotive" quality finish, but you'll be surprised at how good a finish can be achieved with just rattle cans. The key is to allow the color coat to fully harden before you try polishing and waxing. Generally, if you can smell the paint, it's not dry yet.

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 3:13 am
by mwynko
Cool. Good to know. I was concerned about the durability of a spray paint finish but it seems like it would be easy to redo if it gets dinged up. That may be the best/cheapest/easiest option right now. I'm doubtful that this will be my last bike anyway. Haha. I used to have a Honda Ruckus, but it was stolen pretty soon after I got it. :'(

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 7:54 pm
by thatvwbusguy
Another good option for painting a scooter on the cheap is Plasti Dip. I painted my formerly gloss black Zuma 125 with the camo green about 2,500 miles ago and it still looks great even though I do quite a bit of riding on gravel roads.

Plasti Dip is available in a bunch of colors and gives you the option to peel it off and try something else if you change your mind somewhere down the road.

https://www.dipyourcar.com/PlastiDip-Spray-cat/

Image

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:31 pm
by babblefish
Really nice looking Zuma there, thatvwbusguy. How long does the plasti dip take to dry?

Posted: Thu Jul 23, 2015 9:14 pm
by thatvwbusguy
I did 3 coats applied 30 minutes apart at 60-65F, then let everything dry for about 48 hours before reinstalling. I'm sure the finish wasn't completely cured when I installed the panels, but I had no problems and didn't leave any prints or marks even though I had to manhandle a couple of them a bit to get everything lined up just right.

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 8:10 pm
by Jrottem_46
thatvwbusguy wrote:I did 3 coats applied 30 minutes apart at 60-65F, then let everything dry for about 48 hours before reinstalling. I'm sure the finish wasn't completely cured when I installed the panels, but I had no problems and didn't leave any prints or marks even though I had to manhandle a couple of them a bit to get everything lined up just right.
How many cans did it take to cover the whole scooter?

Posted: Sat Jul 25, 2015 10:01 pm
by thatvwbusguy
A little less than 3 cans for the Zuma 125. I would plan on buying 4 cans for a Buddy to be sure you will have enough.

Posted: Mon Jul 27, 2015 10:35 pm
by Jrottem_46
I just just plasti dipped my buddy this weekend and it worked like a charm. I used both black and red. I used about two cans of each to make sure I had clean coats over all the panels. I have to touch up a couple of areas from putting the panels back on, but I'm pleased with how the plasti dip came out. Plus I can always peal it off if I want. Just remember when taking the panels off to make sure where all the screws go back. Somehow I ended up with extra, so I am probably missed putting some back. The plastic is cheap. Be carful not to break any of the clips on the inside of the panels.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:05 am
by luckyscroller788
Looks pretty nice I must say! Does the plastidip paint always have sort of a matte finish, or is there a glossy one as well?

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 4:54 am
by Jrottem_46
luckyscroller788 wrote:Looks pretty nice I must say! Does the plastidip paint always have sort of a matte finish, or is there a glossy one as well?
I'm pretty sure all plasti dip is a matte finish. I haven't seen a glossy finish before.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 12:02 pm
by Wingscribe
Looking great there...I often toy with getting some OD Green Plasti-Dip to create a "Battle Buddy." but then I get distracted by something else.

Thanks for the pic.

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 2:12 pm
by HowHH
Jrottem_46 wrote:
luckyscroller788 wrote:Looks pretty nice I must say! Does the plastidip paint always have sort of a matte finish, or is there a glossy one as well?
I'm pretty sure all plasti dip is a matte finish. I haven't seen a glossy finish before.
There is a "glossifier" available. Essentially a platidip compatible gloss coat to go over the color coat. I haven't tried it, but have heard it can remain sort of tacky for a while.

If you have ever considered doing a "blackout buddy", you can save yourself the cost of the $120 blackout kit from Scooterworks with a $6 can of plastidip. You can dip all your chrome, and if you decide you don't like it or tire of it, easily peel it off!

Posted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 3:15 pm
by Dooglas
Doesn't some of the Plasti-dip "easily peel off" when you don't want it to?

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 5:50 am
by Jrottem_46
Dooglas wrote:Doesn't some of the Plasti-dip "easily peel off" when you don't want it to?
Yes.

Posted: Wed Jul 29, 2015 7:00 am
by thatvwbusguy
I have had zero issues with the Plastidip peeling. As with any topcoat, starting with clean, degreased parts is the key to good long term results.