Fog Lights?
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Fog Lights?
Has anyone expiremented with converting the original turn signals into fog lights connected to the (currently disabled) headlight kill switch? This seems like a simple enough procedure from a mechanical standpoint, but my knowledge of electricity is pretty basic. I imagine having three headlights on the front would be a lot more useful than four turn signals, which I currently have wired up.
- rickyd410
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- vitaminC
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Replacing the bulbs with LEDs might solve that problem. Although you might also need to install a load equalizer as well. I'd ask a pro first.vitaminC wrote:Another important issue is whether or not the charging system can handle it. I don't imagine the Buddy generates a lot of juice, so extra lights might result in a dead battery and immobile Buddy...
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won't work
Merely changing the color of the bulbs won't make those dot mandated turn indicators, or the body mounted ones either for that matter into fog lamps. A true fog light, or driving lamp, isnt merly a small auxillary light. A fog light throws a flat, mail slot like beam of light that is intended to illuminate the ground instead of illuminating the fog and blinding you. To be effective a fog lamp should be mounted low on a vehicle.. bumper height or lower on an automobile. On the other hand, a driving light will throw a long pencil beam a great distance.. but also on the road.. not out into the background like a hi-beam. I seriously doubt wether the lenses on the buddy will actually throw a beam of any kind. they are designed just to light up as a marker on the bike
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Definitely some valid points comming up here. The stock housings probably would melt, but I can't say that for sure. I can shed some light on why the lights might run too dim. A halogen bulb will only use the power you send to it so don't worry about too many lights draining your battery (although a HID ballast will). The stock electrical system only generates a certain ammount of amps, every light you have on needs some of those. Once you have lighting that requires more amps then you electrical system can provide you get dim lights and reduced charging capacity. The math of it is Amps = Wattage / Volts. A higher wattage bulb also generates more heat and can melt stuff including the wires feeding it power.
If you want to use some LEDs (they do require less power) adding a load equalizer defeats the purpose of saving energy, you'd need to change the relay instead to keep your turn signals flashing the right way. If you're wondering why or how I know this look for my posts regarding an upgrade to HIDs on my Rattler110... I also have more information on it at www.epsp.us in the technical section and at genuinerattler (yahoo group). I know more about my electrical system and lights then I want to
If you want to use some LEDs (they do require less power) adding a load equalizer defeats the purpose of saving energy, you'd need to change the relay instead to keep your turn signals flashing the right way. If you're wondering why or how I know this look for my posts regarding an upgrade to HIDs on my Rattler110... I also have more information on it at www.epsp.us in the technical section and at genuinerattler (yahoo group). I know more about my electrical system and lights then I want to
EZPZ #65
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sorry, FALSE. I've had my front lights clear running incandescents for a couple months... I rode to Fairhope and back and all around with them on (about 4 hours straight). No probs at all. I think the LEDs would be better, I'll prolly wait till these burn out first to upgrade.ScooterTrash wrote:Don't do it, the lenses and housings will melt
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