Modern Buddy

Is the buddy 125 clutch adjustable? if not can I buy the springs and fix it myself? to open the clutch what tools do I need?

What is your clutch doing that requires you to open it up? The needle bearing went out on my 125 at about 12,000 miles. I pulled a low mileage used one off my donor bike. I picked this up as a spare: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z5 ... UTF8&psc=1 It looks to be very high quality. It has a review or two from an actual Buddy user.
I place the big nut in a bench vise and use a strap wrench to spin the assembly to break it loose. I then squeeze it together with a couple of quick clamps, and finish off the nut w/ a pair of channel locks. Use the Harbor Freight pick set to remove the small springs.

when i accelerate from a stop it doesn't move right away then jerks hard. after that it moves normal once I'm moving. I changed the rollers and belt and it still has this problem.

kalajosh wrote: ↑Sun Jan 22, 2023 10:54 pm when i accelerate from a stop it doesn't move right away then jerks hard. after that it moves normal once I'm moving. I changed the rollers and belt and it still has this problem.

A few other things you can try-
-hit the faces of the variator with some sandpaper to remove any glazing
-with the scooter running squeeze both brakes and give it some gas, this can sometimes deglaze the clutch bell(I have heard some people say it doesn't do anything)
-you can take the clutch apart and make sure the clutch bell is clean and free of grease/gunk, and then make check that the clutch pads are clean.

These have worked for me a few times when the CVT started to jerk on take off. But I have also had a couple of clutches that got so bad the scooter wasn't ridable(it was popping wheelies from every stop.) My theory with these bad clutches is they need to be taken apart and given a good cleaning, then re-greased. I haven't been able to open one to test my theory.

Yes, some fine sandpaper is your friend here, same for my Burgman 400
Lightly sand across the shoes.

Thanks for the suggestions. I bought the clutch from the link and will install it next week when the tool to hold the variator and clutch from spinning comes and i have time. What is the tourqe number for the nut on the variator and also for the clutch nut?

kalajosh wrote: ↑Sun Jan 29, 2023 11:16 amWhat is the tourqe number for the nut on the variator and also for the clutch nut?

Locking torque:
1.Nut of driving pulley M10:4.0-5.5kg/m.
2.Locking nut of clutch M10:4.0-5.5kg/m

I believe that converts to 29-40 lb/ft


The Buddy 125 service manual - http://www.modernbuddy.com/pdf/buddy125 ... manual.pdf

When the new rear clutch arrived I noticed that the large spring was alot stronger than the original had become.

Anyways after putting it on the problem is solved. Thanks again everyone

You installed that $32 Amazon clutch, and it worked out well? Good to know. I have one sitting on a shelf as a backup.

Please let us know how the clutch works out as you put more miles on it. I am always looking for cheap CVT parts so if this clutch has decent durability/longevity I might have to pick on up.

Yes the $32 dollar clutch is working well still. I wanted to change the springs on the old one. I want to use an impact drill and socket on the large flat nut to open it. I don't know what size to order for the socket though. Also should it be a impact socket?

You don't need all that to get the clutch apart. Do you have access to a bench vise and strap wrench? Go to youtube. There are videos showing how to bust the nut loose with a crescent wrench. Once you get it started, stand on the pad assembly and finish it off w/ channel locks.

After 3 months or so of driving 6 days a week 15 miles a day the clutch is starting to have the same problems as the one I replaced but not as bad yet. I'll put the old one on that I changed the springs on and de-glazed the pads and bell.

Outside of total miles not noted on your scooter I see no reason why the same issue would come back so quickly. I suspect the torque driver is hanging up. Perhaps a guide pin is messed up (rare)? Grease leaked past the seal (was anything greasy)? Base of the torque spring is damaged (did it jump out of the seat)? Needs a re-grease and new seals (mostly on higher mile scooters)?

I always install a secondary spring seat on my scooters. They really smooth out the transmission. I got one from Scooter Works. Sku# 1200-1030. Around $20. I'm pretty sure that's the one I ordered. It's currently in a box hiding in the garage but I might try to get it installed this weekend.

Finally, did you double check the V-slides in the variator? I hate when they get damaged. All sorts of fun and exciting stuff will happen when they get messed up!

Maybe it's the way your are riding. Are you using the throttle as a brake on slight hill? Are you accelerating slow off the line? A scooter clutch should be binary, either stopped or engaged. Unlike a motorcycle, the friction zone is not a good thing on a CVT. Open your CVT, pull the bell. Show us pictures of the pads and bell. Your original complaint was -when i accelerate from a stop it doesn't move right away then jerks hard.-? Sounds like glazed clutch pads to me.

My scooter has 11,300 miles. The sliders and belt were changed at the same time the rear clutch was changed. I haven't opened the new clutch to check the springs. I do live in San Francisco with alot of hills and I do often accelerate enough to keep from rolling back without using the brake. Also the variator is getting stuck when I pull it off the shaft. I had to use a tool to get it off and I tried to file it a little to make it smoother to put back on. Also maybe it's getting too hot in there? There was alot of belt dust.

Ok. You should stop doing that. When you give it gas, but don't move you are glazing the pads and heating the bell. Pull everything apart. Sand the pads w/ 150 grit and wipe away the dust with a chip brush. Try to sand perpendicular to the length. Clean the inside of the bell with brake cleaner, then rough it up with the same sandpaper. When you put it back together, get used to pulling away from the line just short of a jack rabbit start. You want to be stopped, or engaged moving forward. You do not want to be giving it throttle while you are standing still.

I just ordered another rear clutch and sand paper I'll just put a new one in soon.

I just put the new one on and it seems OK now. The bell on the old one was like a mirror and the pads were glazed. I'll sand them later.