Page 1 of 1

Choke not working when engaged. Carb Rebuilt Recently

Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2016 9:15 pm
by matap
I recently purchased my 2012 4T and when I first brought it home it needed the choke pull engaged and it would start up just fine and stay running while it was pulled out. It would not idle.

I disassembled the carb carefully and dipped it and got it cleaned up just right. It now turns on great and idles even better.

That is until the other day when I hadn't turned it on for a good 5 days and it was a bit fresh in the morning but it wouldn't stay on. It turned on just fine but wouldn't stay on unless I gave it some throttle and really all it needed was a like 30 seconds to a minute of doing that.

This is where I found my problem when I noticed that when I called upon my choke that it didn't do anything.

Like I said it still turns on real easy. one kick or using the electric starter but shortly wants to die. after riding it for a very short time it's basically a non-issue.

any suggestions?

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 2:28 pm
by ArgonV
Check to see if the choke cable became dislodged from the carb?

When you pull it, looking at the top of the carb you should see it engage the flap.

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 5:46 pm
by jimmbomb
Like on my 2010 4t, you probally need to adjust the choke cable end where it attaches to the carb.
Only a phillips screwdriver needed.
Loosen the clamp, pull the cables outer sleeve away from the carb till its almost out of the clamp,
Then retighten. 15 seconds.
Good luck and report back your success.

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:33 pm
by matap
ArgonV wrote:Check to see if the choke cable became dislodged from the carb?

When you pull it, looking at the top of the carb you should see it engage the flap.
Definitely not dislodged. and the flap is working properly.

Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:35 pm
by matap
jimmbomb wrote:Like on my 2010 4t, you probally need to adjust the choke cable end where it attaches to the carb.
Only a phillips screwdriver needed.
Loosen the clamp, pull the cables outer sleeve away from the carb till its almost out of the clamp,
Then retighten. 15 seconds.
Good luck and report back your success.
I'm pretty sure I tried that too after noticing it wasn't engaging all the way down when I first started tinkering with it but I will try again and test it out.

Posted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:27 pm
by matap
matap wrote:
jimmbomb wrote:Like on my 2010 4t, you probally need to adjust the choke cable end where it attaches to the carb.
Only a phillips screwdriver needed.
Loosen the clamp, pull the cables outer sleeve away from the carb till its almost out of the clamp,
Then retighten. 15 seconds.
Good luck and report back your success.
I'm pretty sure I tried that too after noticing it wasn't engaging all the way down when I first started tinkering with it but I will try again and test it out.
Got the same response. Nothing. It still didn't act like a choke should.

Posted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 12:43 pm
by fisher1
If the choke cable activates the choke and you can verify that watching it, then it's working correctly the issue probably isn't the choke. If the carb was just rebuilt, the problem may be related to another carb issue like stuck float or clogged float needle or clogged jet, etc.

If the scoot is running and you activate the choke, does it result in the engine sputtering and etc ?

Posted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 8:01 pm
by matap
fisher1 wrote:If the choke cable activates the choke and you can verify that watching it, then it's working correctly the issue probably isn't the choke. If the carb was just rebuilt, the problem may be related to another carb issue like stuck float or clogged float needle or clogged jet, etc.

If the scoot is running and you activate the choke, does it result in the engine sputtering and etc ?
mmmm.....I did take it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. Prior to doing that the choke worked fine because that's all that would keep it from turning off. Now that I cleaned it the scoot stays idling great and runs great but the choke doesn't seem to work. If I pull the choke cable pull nothing really happens. If I finish pushing it until it stops on the carb then it starts to sputter and wants to turn off.

Posted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 4:18 pm
by fisher1
mmmm.....I did take it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. Prior to doing that the choke worked fine because that's all that would keep it from turning off.
OK, so carb jets/float/something in the fuel line was clogged and so using the choke richened the mix and thus enabled the engine to run.
Now that I cleaned it the scoot stays idling great and runs great but the choke doesn't seem to work. If I pull the choke cable pull nothing really happens.
Are you saying the choke doesn't close the carb's throat if you remove the filter and look down the venturi? If it doesn't close the throat when the choke knob is pulled, something in the choke linkage is not connected correctly.
If I finish pushing it until it stops on the carb then it starts to sputter and wants to turn off.

Posted: Mon Oct 10, 2016 4:06 pm
by matap
fisher1 wrote:
mmmm.....I did take it apart and cleaned it thoroughly. Prior to doing that the choke worked fine because that's all that would keep it from turning off.
OK, so carb jets/float/something in the fuel line was clogged and so using the choke richened the mix and thus enabled the engine to run.
Now that I cleaned it the scoot stays idling great and runs great but the choke doesn't seem to work. If I pull the choke cable pull nothing really happens.
Are you saying the choke doesn't close the carb's throat if you remove the filter and look down the venturi? If it doesn't close the throat when the choke knob is pulled, something in the choke linkage is not connected correctly.
If I finish pushing it until it stops on the carb then it starts to sputter and wants to turn off.
1. Yeah, now that carb is cleaned (because it was gummed up bad) it runs fine. Of course once warmed up after a minute. It idles great and stays idling.

2. So I've adjust the choke to simulate closing all the way. When mounted as it should and choke cable is pulled it doesn't seat 100% and probably leaves the butterfly open about 1/8" or less. When I go to push it further in to simulate fully seated it then starts to sputter and will cut off.