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"warm up" for flasher to work? WTF?!?

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 9:32 pm
by EvilNerdLord
Ok, maybe this has been asked before...

my '12 4T has the black thermal flasher unit (according to the station shop manual p. 33 there are blue, green and black ones) and it lights, buzzes but takes 5-10 minutes to start to flash and if I shut it down even for a few minute it won't flash again...WTF?!

On the multimmeter I get a rising resistance (148ish to start and it climbs into the 190's then drops into 160's)...

I'm getting a might peeved at this point. :?

Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2016 10:11 pm
by dasscooter
Replace it?

Posted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 2:10 am
by EvilNerdLord
Backordered....

But it looks like my "new" battery (less than 1 1/2 yo) is bad, won't charge past 75% and was at 33% when I pulled it...

Looks like (by the wiring diagram) they run off the battery that in turn gets recharged by the stator.... not directly from the scoots system.

Damn that means new battery....agm?

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:49 pm
by ArgonV
I had an issue that was draining my battery... A faulty LED rear bulb had corroded and I guess shorted. I would charge my batt, and it would only be good for a few days before all my blinkers sounded near-silent and were dim.

Replaced my rear brake and light bulbs with some decent incandescent ones, charged my batt and all is well after a week.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 4:18 pm
by EvilNerdLord
i'm still stock on all the bulbs...I'll look into swapping those out

thanx for the idea, hadn't thought of those.

Posted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:49 pm
by dasscooter
You should be able to find a new flasher at any auto parts store, they are pretty universal. Genuine ain't gonna be stocking those parts anymore.

Posted: Wed Nov 16, 2016 11:29 pm
by EvilNerdLord
the genuine part has an odd shape, larger square than most and a ridge the rubber strap goes against....otherwise it's a two pin.

I'd have to figure out a way top hang a generic replacement...motorcycle ones do have a clip-thingy on their sides....hmmm, I can find a place for that one...

Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 2:28 pm
by ArgonV
I just wrapped a bunch of electrical tape around the top of an after market one and it keeps it in place.

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:36 pm
by dasscooter
I haven't met a Stella owner without a pack of zip ties in their glovebox, you may be the first! :P

Posted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 7:42 pm
by EvilNerdLord
ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011B ... UTF8&psc=1

and for curiosity these too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018G ... UTF8&psc=1

had a gift cert...so it ended up being free for me.
figured what the hell, lets give it a try :)

Posted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 7:07 pm
by EvilNerdLord

Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 8:18 pm
by jimmbomb
I cantt get your links to work for nuthin.

Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 8:37 pm
by EvilNerdLord

Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2016 2:16 pm
by srbbnd
Awesome, I am going to try this out thanks for posting.

Posted: Thu Dec 15, 2016 8:43 pm
by EvilNerdLord
there is a little gap between the new flasher and the frame, but a bit of foam rubber to fill it (and put a little tension on the band) should take care of it.

Posted: Tue Jan 31, 2017 5:09 pm
by Neurotic-Hapi-Snak
Careful with the LEDs, been a while since I looked at the wiring diagram, but I know some of the lights (taillight, stoplight, and running light for certain) switch from the DC circuit when the engine is off (so they can run on battery power) to the AC circuit when the engine is running (so the battery has more juice to charge). I don't remember if the turn signals do or not, but AC is not good for LEDs.

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2017 8:57 pm
by EvilNerdLord
Neurotic-Hapi-Snak wrote:Careful with the LEDs, been a while since I looked at the wiring diagram, but I know some of the lights (taillight, stoplight, and running light for certain) switch from the DC circuit when the engine is off (so they can run on battery power) to the AC circuit when the engine is running (so the battery has more juice to charge). I don't remember if the turn signals do or not, but AC is not good for LEDs.
The wiring diagram has it running off the battery then it recharges as it runs, doesn't look like a direct circuit to the stator.

but so far it's been working with out problems...