Stella 2t turned off while riding . Doesn't run now

The original 2-stroke Genuine scooter and its 4-stroke manual and automatic offspring

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Bnutty
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Location: levittown pa

Stella 2t turned off while riding . Doesn't run now

Post by Bnutty »

Newbie here guys so bare with me . I just bought a 05 stella 2t ran great for the first two weeks I owned it . Was out riding and it turned off on me started right back up.
Turned off again had to push it home.
No wierd sounds (clunks or bangs).

I checked for spark and bought a new plug for the hell of it . Im getting spark, cleaned the carb (correctly). Didn't think the flow of gas was good so I ran a new fuel line and oil line today. Went through both the gas and fuel system so I know im getting both . Mixture screw is set to 2.5 turns out .

It just cranks . Im doing a compression test tomorrow but I have never lost compression over night with no signs of a bad running motor . Im lost . Any help is appreciated.
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srbbnd
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Post by srbbnd »

Hello there, I have had similar problems with my 2013 4T so I don't know if this will be of any help, but issues I have had that have gotten it running after it stalling are the following:

Vapor Lock- gas was not flowing to the carb due to vapor lock and was remedied by disconnecting the EVAP system and making sure the gas lid could breath a bit.

Kill Switch- The kill switch was defective and was causing a short to where the engine would not turn over.

Carb-the top tube or gas overflow exit tube had become clogged in the middle which created a vacuum and gas was not flowing correctly into the carb.

Needle Valve-Needle valve was sticking due to it being assembled incorrectly.

Having said that I am not mechanically inclined and I am sure other people on here with better knowledge and might have some better ideas of what is causing your problem.
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Dooglas
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Post by Dooglas »

srbbnd wrote:Vapor Lock- gas was not flowing to the carb due to vapor lock and was remedied by disconnecting the EVAP system and making sure the gas lid could breath a bit.

Kill Switch- The kill switch was defective and was causing a short to where the engine would not turn over.
Regarding these two possible issues -

So called "vapor lock" (actually a tank venting issue), easily tested by removing the fuel cap. The problem will instantly go away. Can be permanently resolved with a vented cap (or drilling the present cap). The description above doesn't seem to fit this possible issue though.

A failed kill switch will prevent the ignition system from functioning. Unless, the problem is only intermittent, the presence of a spark would rule this out.

That tends to point you toward carb issues.
Bnutty
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Location: levittown pa

Post by Bnutty »

Douglas

thats what I thought and rebuilt the carb . New gaskets float and needle. Soaked and sprayed carb cleaner all throughout it . Wire strands though the jets then another spray down with carb cleaner and air . Im assuming the carb should function properly after all that now. But maybe I'm missing something.
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Dooglas
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Post by Dooglas »

Getting the diaphragm to seal around the edge can sometimes be tricky and frustrating. A pinhole leak in a diaphragm is also not unheard of.
Bnutty
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Location: levittown pa

Post by Bnutty »

Okay so playing around with it today. It starts up with a pop start but if you dont keep the rpms up it dies out . The starter or kick start doesn't get it going any help ?
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