Is there a special tool needed for a valve adjustment 220i??

[rattler110_818]

So I took my Blur 220I to Route 66 last thursday. I told the guy I needed a Valve Adjustment to be done. He said no problem. Let me write you up for a diagnostic $75. If the valve adjustment is needed then we can do it. So an hour passed by and he said its done. We adjusted the idle. So i paid the $75 and went to see the blur. I turned it on and the rpm's are @ 2300. At this point I was like WTF. By the way the sputtering idle is still there. So I told him the owners manual calls for the idle to be @ 1700 and my idle is still sputtering. He said "you need a valve adjustment". I replied with "isnt that what I brought it in for". He said well we dont have the right tools to perform it. I was like you should have told me that when I first got here. I thought all you need to do a valve adjustment was a feller gauge. Which im sure they had. So the question is do you need a special tool to do a valve adjustment????

[Rippinyarn]

Not as far as I know. When I do it on the Bajaj, it's pretty straightforward. Rotating the engine to that the valves are in a certain position, feeler gauge and then loosen and slightly adjust the valve to the appropriate clearance with the cam. I've not done it yet on my Blur, but it can't be that much different, unless I'm greatly mistaken.

[gtmotor]

I just did it last week on my Blur with an authorized Genuine scooter mechanic.

There are no special tools needed and it's very easy to put the Blur at top dead center to check the valves.

It's a bit of a pain to remove the valve cover due to the inboard shock but other than that... anyone who is mechanically inclined should be able to do it.

[rattler110_818]

I knew these guys were giving BS. There harley mechanic probably didnt want to touch it. I called genuine but there tech support guy was out. I will call them again tomorrow. I need my blur ready for ROM.

[turboscott]

So I took my Blur 220I to Route 66 last thursday. I told the guy I needed a Valve Adjustment to be done. He said no problem. Let me write you up for a diagnostic $75. If the valve adjustment is needed then we can do it. So an hour passed by and he said its done. We adjusted the idle. So i paid the $75 and went to see the blur. I turned it on and the rpm's are @ 2300. At this point I was like WTF. By the way the sputtering idle is still there. So I told him the owners manual calls for the idle to be @ 1700 and my idle is still sputtering. He said "you need a valve adjustment". I replied with "isnt that what I brought it in for". He said well we dont have the right tools to perform it. I was like you should have told me that when I first got here. I thought all you need to do a valve adjustment was a feller gauge. Which im sure they had. So the question is do you need a special tool to do a valve adjustment????

Please tell me you got your money back for this????

[omniphil]

Is there a write up for this procedure? What's the service interval for this?

I definitely have the wandering idle, and it has even stalled on a few occasions. I could certainly take this thing apart this winter...

[davelhunter]

I had an almost identical experience with this dealer. I would recommend others to stay away and find another dealer.

[Rippinyarn]

The wandering idle is standard with the Blur 220, no extra charge

I think that the interval for the valve adjustment is 3000 miles, so I was about 1000 miles over when i did mine. I need to write it up, but it's basically easy, albeit a pain in the ass to access due to the fact that the valve cover can't get out of the way without removing the central shock. Sure, one can work around it (I did), but it will take a little patience and some long fingers. Both of my valves were tight, but just a bit.

The worst part about adjusting the valves is the fussy three piece gasket. It has a large "U" in the channel, plus a top piece and bottom piece that sort of clip on. It wasn't too much of a problem as the gaskets are "new" but I can see them either leaking or letting air into the valve cover if they are not perfect. Kinda fussy design if you ask me.

[omniphil]

The wandering idle is standard with the Blur 220, no extra charge

I think that the interval for the valve adjustment is 3000 miles, so I was about 1000 miles over when i did mine. I need to write it up, but it's basically easy, albeit a pain in the ass to access due to the fact that the valve cover can't get out of the way without removing the central shock. Sure, one can work around it (I did), but it will take a little patience and some long fingers. Both of my valves were tight, but just a bit.

The worst part about adjusting the valves is the fussy three piece gasket. It has a large "U" in the channel, plus a top piece and bottom piece that sort of clip on. It wasn't too much of a problem as the gaskets are "new" but I can see them either leaking or letting air into the valve cover if they are not perfect. Kinda fussy design if you ask me.

I'm at 3200 miles or so... Does this need to be done every 3000 miles or just once at the 3000 mile mark?

[Rippinyarn]

I don't have the service interval section with me, but I'd say it's probably a check for every 3000 miles. I'd bet that they don't vary much, but it's a good idea. The tech at Genuine has me running my exhaust slightly looser (0.09 vs. 0.08 ) as it's standard motorcycle practice to run the very hot exhaust valve a little looser than the intake.

[omniphil]

I don't have the service interval section with me, but I'd say it's probably a check for every 3000 miles. I'd bet that they don't vary much, but it's a good idea. The tech at Genuine has me running my exhaust slightly looser (0.09 vs. 0.08 ) as it's standard motorcycle practice to run the very hot exhaust valve a little looser than the intake.

Sounds good, I'll pull it apart this winter and take a look. 0.09 is what unit of measure? I assume I get a feeler gauge that size to check the valves?

[babblefish]

Is there a write up for this procedure? What's the service interval for this?

I definitely have the wandering idle, and it has even stalled on a few occasions. I could certainly take this thing apart this winter...

This procedure is for a Buddy, but the actual adjustment part is the same for a Blur: topic8312.html

[viney266]

Dealers like that make me sad....

Gives all of them a bad name and then the decent ones have to fight to earn a good rep.

[Rippinyarn]

I don't have the service interval section with me, but I'd say it's probably a check for every 3000 miles. I'd bet that they don't vary much, but it's a good idea. The tech at Genuine has me running my exhaust slightly looser (0.09 vs. 0.08 ) as it's standard motorcycle practice to run the very hot exhaust valve a little looser than the intake.

Sounds good, I'll pull it apart this winter and take a look. 0.09 is what unit of measure? I assume I get a feeler gauge that size to check the valves?

It's millimeters but the gauge set that I have also has standard measurements. MM is quoted in the owner's manual. It's a bit of a long, arduous task the first time that you do it, and I made up a special tool (just a piece of metal with the notch in it) to hold the end of the adjusting bolt while you carefully loosen the nut holding it. The first time I did it was like 2 hours, now I can do it in about 25 minutes. Both lower side panels have to come off (11 screws each?), the belt/transmission cover has to come off (something like 8 bolts), the seat and storage box have to come off (4 bolts and 2 electrical connections) and the wiring behind the shock has to be moved out of the way. I hung the valve cover (4 bolts) out of the way with a piece of wire. It's a finicky job and I was wishing that I had a shop that I could trust to do it during that first time. There are lots of sharp things hanging around down there too... good times. If I was new to working on engines, I might leave this to the shop, but I understand your wanting to know what's going on. Maybe get a local "scooter wrench" to help/supervise that first time.

[omniphil]

I don't have the service interval section with me, but I'd say it's probably a check for every 3000 miles. I'd bet that they don't vary much, but it's a good idea. The tech at Genuine has me running my exhaust slightly looser (0.09 vs. 0.08 ) as it's standard motorcycle practice to run the very hot exhaust valve a little looser than the intake.

Sounds good, I'll pull it apart this winter and take a look. 0.09 is what unit of measure? I assume I get a feeler gauge that size to check the valves?

It's millimeters but the gauge set that I have also has standard measurements. MM is quoted in the owner's manual. It's a bit of a long, arduous task the first time that you do it, and I made up a special tool (just a piece of metal with the notch in it) to hold the end of the adjusting bolt while you carefully loosen the nut holding it. The first time I did it was like 2 hours, now I can do it in about 25 minutes. Both lower side panels have to come off (11 screws each?), the belt/transmission cover has to come off (something like 8 bolts), the seat and storage box have to come off (4 bolts and 2 electrical connections) and the wiring behind the shock has to be moved out of the way. I hung the valve cover (4 bolts) out of the way with a piece of wire. It's a finicky job and I was wishing that I had a shop that I could trust to do it during that first time. There are lots of sharp things hanging around down there too... good times. If I was new to working on engines, I might leave this to the shop, but I understand your wanting to know what's going on. Maybe get a local "scooter wrench" to help/supervise that first time.

Can you skip removing belt cover? I'm wondering if can turn the engine over by using the ac generator behind the fan grill on the opposite side of the bike?

[charlie55]

I don't have the service interval section with me, but I'd say it's probably a check for every 3000 miles. I'd bet that they don't vary much, but it's a good idea. The tech at Genuine has me running my exhaust slightly looser (0.09 vs. 0.08 ) as it's standard motorcycle practice to run the very hot exhaust valve a little looser than the intake.

Sounds good, I'll pull it apart this winter and take a look. 0.09 is what unit of measure? I assume I get a feeler gauge that size to check the valves?

It's millimeters but the gauge set that I have also has standard measurements. MM is quoted in the owner's manual. It's a bit of a long, arduous task the first time that you do it, and I made up a special tool (just a piece of metal with the notch in it) to hold the end of the adjusting bolt while you carefully loosen the nut holding it. The first time I did it was like 2 hours, now I can do it in about 25 minutes. Both lower side panels have to come off (11 screws each?), the belt/transmission cover has to come off (something like 8 bolts), the seat and storage box have to come off (4 bolts and 2 electrical connections) and the wiring behind the shock has to be moved out of the way. I hung the valve cover (4 bolts) out of the way with a piece of wire. It's a finicky job and I was wishing that I had a shop that I could trust to do it during that first time. There are lots of sharp things hanging around down there too... good times. If I was new to working on engines, I might leave this to the shop, but I understand your wanting to know what's going on. Maybe get a local "scooter wrench" to help/supervise that first time.

If memory serves me, I believe that doing the adjustment on the 150 was made easier by not performing the job on the center stand because taking the weight off the back wheel pivoted the top of the engine closer to the shock. I think, repeat think, that the last time I did it, I had the scoot off both stands and had someone sit on it. This caused the engine top to pivot down and away from the shock.

Or maybe it's the other way around.

[Rippinyarn]

Sounds good, I'll pull it apart this winter and take a look. 0.09 is what unit of measure? I assume I get a feeler gauge that size to check the valves?

It's millimeters but the gauge set that I have also has standard measurements. MM is quoted in the owner's manual. It's a bit of a long, arduous task the first time that you do it, and I made up a special tool (just a piece of metal with the notch in it) to hold the end of the adjusting bolt while you carefully loosen the nut holding it. The first time I did it was like 2 hours, now I can do it in about 25 minutes. Both lower side panels have to come off (11 screws each?), the belt/transmission cover has to come off (something like 8 bolts), the seat and storage box have to come off (4 bolts and 2 electrical connections) and the wiring behind the shock has to be moved out of the way. I hung the valve cover (4 bolts) out of the way with a piece of wire. It's a finicky job and I was wishing that I had a shop that I could trust to do it during that first time. There are lots of sharp things hanging around down there too... good times. If I was new to working on engines, I might leave this to the shop, but I understand your wanting to know what's going on. Maybe get a local "scooter wrench" to help/supervise that first time.

Can you skip removing belt cover? I'm wondering if can turn the engine over by using the ac generator behind the fan grill on the opposite side of the bike?

I tried that to verify the TDC positioning, but I can't remember if you can turn the flywheel to get the engine to move (you should be able to), but from that side you can't see what you need to see at the valves. As it turns out the verification of TDC is very obvious on the 220 by visualizing the cam sprocket and the little lines (flat with the head, i.e. pointing up and down in line with the edge of the head, and the big hole, pointing towards the front of the scoot. Once the spark plug is out, it's easy to turn the engine over by rotating the variator right next to it, since you have to be looking at that side of the sprocket anyway.