NCY variator

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agrogod
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NCY variator

Post by agrogod »

Having finally gotten a day without sub zero temps., snow, rain or excessively high winds I was able to finally install my Teflon coated NCY variator. Nice!! With the higher ramps the low end acceleration was almost instantaneous. Had a nice smooth crossover into the higher revs and easily hit the 50 indicated mark with more to go. If the speedometer indicated 60 it hit it no problem. I am quite pleased with the end results.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

That's impressive. What other mods do you have?
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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ender07
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Post by ender07 »

OldGuy wrote:That's impressive. What other mods do you have?
What roller weights did you use and where did you get it?
Roughhouse 50 - custom green paint job, Prima exhaust pipe, 5G rollers, 1000 RPM contra spring, 2000 RPM clutch pillow springs, 95 carb jet, UNI pod air filter, debadged, delobstered, PIAA Super Plasma performance headlight
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Post by agrogod »

Answering all. Mods so far, NCY teflon coated variator, Next R II muffler, 6 gram rollers. Still on the wish list is a 19mm carb., and still need to install 1500 compression spring and 1000 RPM clutch springs.

Seems that you don't need to go whole hog to get a good performance boost just have to add the right mods.

Variator

**link has been edited to show the correct item**
Last edited by agrogod on Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:36 am, edited 2 times in total.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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theemptythrone
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Post by theemptythrone »

maybe a link to this variator?
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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ender07
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Post by ender07 »

He already included it lol!
Roughhouse 50 - custom green paint job, Prima exhaust pipe, 5G rollers, 1000 RPM contra spring, 2000 RPM clutch pillow springs, 95 carb jet, UNI pod air filter, debadged, delobstered, PIAA Super Plasma performance headlight
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

I have the 1500 contra spring on mine; you will like it. It allows the engine to rev a little more before starting to shift up, so low end acceleration is enhanced.

I am very curious about the Technigas NextR pipe. Is it really quieter than a lot of these pipes? (My Prima was way too noisy, so I removed it.)

Where did you buy the pipe? Seems like most places we shop don't carry Technigas. If this pipe is truly quieter I will probably be ordering one!

You didn't mention re-jetting. I settled on an 88 for the Prima, but have since gone back to stock. Have you changed the main jet?

Thanks for all the info!
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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theemptythrone
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Post by theemptythrone »

eff im blind.
old guy there's always leo vince for an exhaust option.
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

Leo Vince makes good pipes. But what about noise level? Pipes and annoying (to me) noise often seem to go together. And, I know noise is subjective.

Does Leo Vince make a pipe with moderate performance gains and moderate noise? I'd be interested in learning if they do.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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theemptythrone
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Post by theemptythrone »

ill make a video of mnie tonight so you can hear how it sounds.
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

OldGuy wrote: I am very curious about the Technigas NextR pipe. Is it really quieter than a lot of these pipes? (My Prima was way too noisy, so I removed it.)

Where did you buy the pipe? Seems like most places we shop don't carry Technigas. If this pipe is truly quieter I will probably be ordering one!

You didn't mention re-jetting. I settled on an 88 for the Prima, but have since gone back to stock. Have you changed the main jet?

Thanks for all the info!
Hey OldGuy, the Technigas Next R is no longer available but the Next RS II is. The noise levels are actually a little higher when compared to the OEM pipe, I have compared its noise to a swarm of angry hornets x2. Hope that description helps.
And my duh on the re-jet. I used an 85 main jet from from Scooterworks which I found on the RH replacement parts page. After doing extensive research the OEM jet is a 74 if I recall correctly.
Also with the Technigas pipes they have a restricted flange pipe welded into the mouth of the exhaust port side. This must be removed prior to installation to get the full benefit of this pipe.

Next RS II

**Post edited to show proper items**
Last edited by agrogod on Mon Apr 14, 2014 10:40 am, edited 3 times in total.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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ender07
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Post by ender07 »

Hey Agrogod....I saw you linked the variator for the 125/150cc scooter with a 115 mm driveface. Did you mean to link the 50cc version with the 89mm face HERE??
Roughhouse 50 - custom green paint job, Prima exhaust pipe, 5G rollers, 1000 RPM contra spring, 2000 RPM clutch pillow springs, 95 carb jet, UNI pod air filter, debadged, delobstered, PIAA Super Plasma performance headlight
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Post by agrogod »

Thanks for the correction ender07, you are right and my old eyes have failed me once again. :fp:
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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ender07
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Post by ender07 »

Do you think it would be worth buying the whole kit (HERE) as well as a 1500 RPM contra spring since my acceleration & hill climbing are really lacking?

Or do you think I should just upgrade the variator to either the one you bought (NCY 89mm) or the Dr. Pulley one listed HERE...plus maybe the NCY racing clutch as well?
Roughhouse 50 - custom green paint job, Prima exhaust pipe, 5G rollers, 1000 RPM contra spring, 2000 RPM clutch pillow springs, 95 carb jet, UNI pod air filter, debadged, delobstered, PIAA Super Plasma performance headlight
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

ender07 I went with the teflon coated variator just for that one specific reason of it being teflon coated. Being from the teflon generation, I was quite familiar with the properties and it just made sense to me, teflon keeps stuff from sticking to it, in theory this should allow the rollers or sliders to move more freely.
I was correct in my assumption. As I took it out for a spin today I went to the one small hill that has always been a struggle to maintain even 30 mph indicated. Was not a problem today. Initially hit the grade at around 50 indicated and halfway up was still hovering around the 40 mph mark. I let up on the throttle just a little to see how its recovery would be. It dropped down to 30 but slowly climbed back up to 35 and held there until I crested the hill. This is before I was able to install the new springs, can't wait to get them on now as this should put the finishing touches on the trans work. I also took it on some small stretches of roadway I have avoided in the past because of the 45 speed limit and was able to keep up with traffic. So far I am happier than a pig in slop.
So to answer your question it is a yes and no answer. Yes if you have no experience and its your first time modding, it comes as a complete kit and takes some guess work out of what to purchase.
No if you got a little knowledge tucked under your belt and want to tune it just right. This takes many hours of research and cross comparing what has and has not worked for others in the past. Keep in mind my RH is an '09 bought in '10 and this is now '14. And you can see from my post it has minimal work done to it. Like I stated earlier its not the amount you do to your ride its what you put on that counts.
If you don't want to invest the time and effort just keep it stock. But using a slow and cautious approach to mods can have a pleasing end result.

And as for the clutch, unless your pads are really worn down I wouldn't worry about changing it just to change it. Of course buying it now and having it available when that time comes is not a bad idea. Spare parts readily at hand is better than being without your ride waiting for them to get to you.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

And one other small item about the clutch. If you are noticing slipping when doing hills take the clutch out and use some fine sandpaper to remove any glazing that has accumulated on the pads. Your ride will love you for it.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

Finally got the springs installed. Had a hard time getting the beast to hold idle and thought the clutch springs may have been to tight. But going back over my winter checklist I failed to do a fuel system once over.
Busted out the carb cleaner and cleaned out the gas filter and gave the carb a couple of shots to loosen any gummy stuff that was in there. Then ran 1 ounce of B-12 Chemtool through the gas as well as put a higher octane (93) in the tank. Runs like a champ now.
I lost a little off the top end, it still hits 50 but have yet to hit that sixty mark I was getting before. Maybe once the springs wear-in I'll see that again.
But the good news is, I CAN CLIMB HILLS. The 1500 spring really made a huge impact on that and now I don't feel so self conscious when traffic is behind me. Still need to get used to the new clutch springs. I have to find that spot in the throttle so I can get it to move smoothly from low to high gearing.
Went on a nice long ride and ventured onto more roads that I never would have dreamed of going on in the past, either due to speed limit, hills or a combo of both.
Was turning quite a few heads when people would see this tiny 2T come buzzing by at road speeds.
But even still, its quite noticeable by me that a bigger carb is definitely needed. Got the idle set at its highest and it is just keeping its head above water. With the setup the way it is now, any small problem in the fuel system will cause a head scratching moment of "whats wrong now".
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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theemptythrone
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Post by theemptythrone »

Does the stock pressure plate work with this variatior?
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

theemptythrone wrote:Does the stock pressure plate work with this variatior?
Yes
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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Post by theemptythrone »

ordered mine today
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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Post by theemptythrone »

new variator installed.
this thing is smooooooth, highly recommended.
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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Post by Mr Stiffy »

How much increase to top end?
What weights did you put in?
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Post by theemptythrone »

im not quite sure, it buried the speedo last night on my test run, so ill need a gps to get a real reading. im using 6.5 sliders in mine.
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Post by agrogod »

In this situation I like using the term 'I told you so'. That variator is a good buy for the money spent. With a buried speedo that usually equates to around 60 RHMPH if 60 was on the dial, or roughly 54 mph real speed. Not to shabby for a tiny 2T engine. 8)
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
150 havoc
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ncy kit 1200-1048

Post by 150 havoc »

My kit came with red (2000) big spring
rollers I think 10/11 grams (I dont have a scale)
orange cluth springs

Great lowend rpm high and lost 4-5 on the top end
Back to boca scooter we go
black (1000) spring # 1200-1026
ncy rollers 12 grams # 1200-1046
ncy clutch springs (1000) 1200-1023
Lost alittle lowend {clutch springs} but good mid and my best topend so far on this stock motor. Rpm may be a little low with the 12 grams,but I drive city and beach so this is a nice smooth ride.Next oil change I may have boca scooter put in 11 grams
karl age 51
Thanks to boca scooter for understanding and tuning for what I want
150cc havoc ,6660rpm constant engine speed.6720rpm peak [minitack]no gps yet.
boyjeenyus
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Agro, did you do a 70cc upgrade?

Post by boyjeenyus »

That muffler says that it's for the 70cc upgraded engines. Just curious if you're using it with an unmodified 50? If so, did you see big performance improvements with it? I got that NCY Variator and switched to 6g rollers--stoked on acceleration, but would love a bit more on the top end on my Roughhouse.
Thanks!
Stephen
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

I used a Technigas II straight out of the box with absolutely no mods and saw a good increase in top end of about 3mph. The rest of the mods smoothed the accelration out and I did see a slight drop in the top end when all was said and done. I mainly attribute this to the wearing in process of the parts installed, which I expected would happen.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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Thanks!

Post by boyjeenyus »

One more question: did your exhaust system bolt right up, or did you have to fabricate a mount of some kind? Did it give more noticeable power in addition to the top end?
Thanks!
Stephen
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

That's one of the inherent problems with the RH50. Some bolt right on and some don't. The Technigas line doesn't, but Leo Vince seems to have a good track record. There is also the Prima line, but with their track record of poor welds and excessive rusting, a repaint at the local auto body shop with a good quality auto paint may help get extra life out of one.

As for the power, its a 50cc, unless you do a BBK and rework the final drive it can only do so much. All I was lookiing for was to be able to ride on 45 mph roads which are abundant in my area. This has been accomplished with what I have done so I am satisfied with the final results.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
KooK
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Post by KooK »

Agrogod, with the use of the NCY variator and 6 gram rollers. I am looking to buy this variator as well, but have done some reading about sliders and rollers, and that the weight of a roller is not equal to the weight of the slider(in function, not actual weight) If i were to get the NCY variator, what weight slider would be recommended per your 6-6.5 gram roller weight?

I read this post: topic23510.html

and found it very helpful. but the uncertainty is still there.

OR

would you just stick with rollers?
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