Maxed out RoughHouse, a serious question

[COYOTE102076]

OK, so let me ask a question, and would appreciate anyone's
past experience if they have already gone down this road before.

What top speed can be realistically expected from a RH50 if the
following things were done:
The "Stage 2 kit" I see advertised with the 72cc overbore kit & exhaust
http://www.scooterworks.com/performance ... NKEamd0w5s

Plus the NCY "Super Trans Kit"
http://www.scooterworks.com/ncy--super- ... NKFBWd0w5s

Not sure if a larger carb would be required or not.
Maybe rejet the stock carb????

Also looking to re gearing the final drive (once more sustainable
power has been added) but can not find anything online (yet)
that shows what lower gear final drive gear set to buy.

For those math savy folks, that's under $800 shipped for all of it.
BUT, would it be WORTH DOING, or a waste of money?
Can it realistically hit 60MPH and hold up reliably for long runs
at 55 MPH?
If new carb is needed, would this work? ------> http://www.scooterworks.com/malossi-car ... NKF_md0w5s

[B02S4]

...
BUT, would it be WORTH DOING, or a waste of money?
Can it realistically hit 60MPH and hold up reliably for long runs
at 55 MPH?...

Jeez, you just bought the thing. Did you buy the wrong one? Worth doing? Only you can answer that for you. From my perspective you may be asking too much of a small motor BBK to "hold up reliably at long runs at 55 MPH"

[COYOTE102076]

Jeez, you just bought the thing. Did you buy the wrong one? Worth doing? Only you can answer that for you. From my perspective you may be asking too much of a small motor BBK to "hold up reliably at long runs at 55 MPH"

Have you ever met someone who just could not leave "good enough"
alone? < Think Tim Allen here >
This is what happens when I buy things.
I buy good stuff, then make it "better"
Thus why at the moment I am looking into turbocharging my
5.0L 343HP Benz to bump it up to over 400 HP.
I just like to tinker. Anything wrong with that?

As to a "bigger bike", no, the lil 50 is just fine as I have plans
to purchase a 300cc class scooter or something along the lines
of a Yamaha V-Star 250 around June / July this year.

Just curious if the extra $800 to max out the RH50 would be
money well spent, or best leave it stock.

[B02S4]

...Just curious if the extra $800 to max out the RH50 would be money well spent, or best leave it stock.

If it were mine, it would run it stock bore, with no irreversible changes, while under warranty. Off-warranty, go nuts.

IMO, the best "value" at this point is to derestrict to your heart's content, & optimize the CVT to your preference.

[COYOTE102076]

Thanks. I may try just the exhaust and the CVT Trans kit
and see how just those 2 alone do for a start.
One thing I did notice is how this little engine is screaming
at 50MPH. UPS Tracking shows my Trail Tech Vapor gauge set
should be in on 02/12/2015. So weekend of 02/14/2015 I should have it
installed. Then I will be able to monitor rpm's, and get a accurate
speed reading.
(Not sure if the speedometer is correct on the RH50 or
not, so between the two + my friends GPS I should have a good average
to go on)

[B02S4]

...One thing I did notice is how this little engine is screaming
at 50MPH. ...

You will likely find that 50 MPH indicated is more like 45 MPH actual. But hey, be thankful you even get there on a bone-stock 49.7cc motor.

[wheelbender6]

Install a stage one engine kit and remove the restriction ring from the CVT before deciding if you if you need the big block kit. Just my opinion.

[lovemysan]

The stage one kit isn't necessary because the included weights might not be optimal for you. I've got the prima pipe on a stock bore. It liked 4.8 gram weights, 1500 rpm clutch springs, and the stock contra spring. The stock bore lasted 8000 miles before a ring broke. Now it's got a malossi sport iron 70cc kit. It's almost as strong as a buddy 125. But I also found it gets hotter faster. It I had it to do over I'd skip the prima pipe and get a Leo Vince zx or zxr. The prima is a touch to peaky for a daily driver IMHO.

[KrispyKreme]

The stage one kit isn't necessary because the included weights might not be optimal for you. I've got the prima pipe on a stock bore. It liked 4.8 gram weights, 1500 rpm clutch springs, and the stock contra spring. The stock bore lasted 8000 miles before a ring broke. Now it's got a malossi sport iron 70cc kit. It's almost as strong as a buddy 125. But I also found it gets hotter faster. It I had it to do over I'd skip the prima pipe and get a Leo Vince zx or zxr. The prima is a touch to peaky for a daily driver IMHO.

Note to Coyote: This poster is the man you need to talk to. Fantastic advice and it was free.

[COYOTE102076]

Thanks.
And lovemysan, can you elaborate a bit on " The prima is a touch to peaky for a daily driver "
Like, does it bog at low RPM's? Is it much louder than the stock muffler?
( hope not "loud" as I live in a kinda uppity neighborhood )
Sad thing is, the stage 2 kit is already ordered. :-/
Should I seriously return it and back up and punt again?
I was under the assumption the #2 kit was a good idea
since it was a complete package.

As to the roller's weights in the #2 kit and the contra spring RPM rating,
I really have no idea, as I do not see those specifications listed on the website. Has anyone in here ever purchased this kit before? Like for a Buddy I wonder. Hmmmmmm. I shall cliketh the searcheth button!

[lovemysan]

I've ridden a Leo Vince zx equipped bike and it was both quieter and slightly less peaky. The prima likes rpms I'd estimate 7000-7500 rpms to get on the pipe. This doesn't work well with stock torque driver. It can cause a bog if your cruising and slow down it will get stuck in overrange and can't get back on the pipe. My local genuine dealer sells mainly the malossi kits. He has seized a few of the prima kits and doesn't really trust them. I think just about any zuma 2t pipe. You can pop over to the zuma forums to research pipes and kits because they all interchange with the r50. I found it really hard to look for a kit with mid range over top end. Most people look for top end speed only.

[COYOTE102076]

Thanks again lovemysan.
I had no clue Zuma pipes would work.
If the stock torque driver has a sticking issue with
the Prima pipe, I am curious if that is why it is supplied
with new rollers and contra spring. Like, maybe to help
alleviate that problem. I would like to think that a company
selling a "kit" would not be selling junk, but I know from past
experience that is not always the case.

I may truly send all this stuff back and reorder if you think
this kit will not work well or is of poor quality.
Heck I don't even know where the kit is made!

Ok, may I bug you with yet another question then.
Will the factory RH50 carb run a 72cc well with larger
jet in it, or do I actually NEED to get the larger carb the company
sells for $225 ?

[KrispyKreme]

No way. Jet it. Talk to the person I told you to talk to before. Talking to you makes me feel like I'm walking down a road with no milk.

[lovemysan]

Thanks again lovemysan.
I had no clue Zuma pipes would work.
If the stock torque driver has a sticking issue with
the Prima pipe, I am curious if that is why it is supplied
with new rollers and contra spring. Like, maybe to help
alleviate that problem. I would like to think that a company
selling a "kit" would not be selling junk, but I know from past
experience that is not always the case.

I may truly send all this stuff back and reorder if you think
this kit will not work well or is of poor quality.
Heck I don't even know where the kit is made!

Ok, may I bug you with yet another question then.
Will the factory RH50 carb run a 72cc well with larger
jet in it, or do I actually NEED to get the larger carb the company
sells for $225 ?

It will run on the factory carb. The stock carb is a 17.5mm. It will run better with a 19 or 21mm. Are you near realfoot or dyersburg. I'm from west tennessee. Conditions are nearly identical to kansas city. I'd say you should be jetted around 95-100 main. I like to jet them a little fat as I'm not the only person to ride my bikes. The stock torque driver has a anlgled shifting grooves that have a directional change. This is what causes the "locking" sensation. NCY makes a torque driver thats $40. Its the same one you get in the trans kit. The NCY transkit is nice but the clutch is no better than stock really. You can tune around the lag by playing with the torque spring and rollers. Keep in mind the prima rollers are soft and don't last long. I have a box of rollers I've salvaged from old projects that I use for tuning. I drill weight from them using a step bit. I currently have 3 4.1 gram + 3 7.1 gram rollers in the roughhouse. I'm running the 100 main jet and have 7 1/4" holes in the rear of the airbox face. I cover 4 holes when I ride in cold weather.

[B02S4]

... tuning. I drill weight from them using a step bit. I currently have 3 4.1 gram + 3 7.1 gram rollers in the roughhouse. I'm running the 100 main jet and have 7 1/4" holes in the rear of the airbox face. ...

Ahh, that is also how I tune DP sliders...start heavy & go lighter with a step drill & gram scale. FWIW, I experimented with stagger-weight sliders & prefer uniform weight as it seems to run a little smoother. Maybe that's just my perception & not reality, but that's what I now do.

A single de-snorkled and enlarged AB inlet will flow better than separate small holes in the AB cover.

For a small motor BBK, a 19mm carb would offer a pretty good balance between performance & economy.

[lovemysan]

... tuning. I drill weight from them using a step bit. I currently have 3 4.1 gram + 3 7.1 gram rollers in the roughhouse. I'm running the 100 main jet and have 7 1/4" holes in the rear of the airbox face. ...

Ahh, that is also how I tune DP sliders...start heavy & go lighter with a step drill & gram scale. FWIW, I experimented with stagger-weight sliders & prefer uniform weight as it seems to run a little smoother. Maybe that's just my perception & not reality, but that's what I now do.

A single de-snorkled and enlarged AB inlet will flow better than separate small holes in the AB cover.

For a small motor BBK, a 19mm carb would offer a pretty good balance between performance & economy.

I totally forgot I desnorkeled the air box. I also removed the divider. I've never tried sliders in a 50 but I do have a complete set that for tuning my 125. It's easier tune the 125 transmission but peak power and carb tuning can be pretty elusive.