Nail / Screw in Tire

nysheepy · Post by **nysheepy** » Sun Jun 07, 2015 7:34 pm

So I got a screw punctured into my rear tire yesterday and it is flat now. Have a few questions. Is the 2014 roughhouse tires tube or tubeless? Is this something I can fix myself? (I don't have an air compressor). Are regular auto tire shops able to patch / remove and patch scooter tires?
Thanks. Its my first scooter flat.

nysheepy · Post by **nysheepy** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 3:35 pm

http://49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/380/change-tire
Above link has pretty good instructions with pictures. Guess I'll have to remove the exhaust, fender, then take the wheel/tire off and bring it to a tire shop to patch and re-inflate, then reassemble back home.
Hope this is correct and anyone else coming into this issue will find it helpful.

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:04 pm

Where in the tire is your screw? You can buy a tire plug kit from the autoparts store for fairly cheap. They are easy to use, I've had good results with them. Try it and keep an eye on your air pressure. You might save yourself a lot of hassle of removing the wheel.

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-22-5-00106 ... e+plug+kit

avescoots1134 · Post by **avescoots1134** » Mon Jun 08, 2015 7:19 pm

Plug it. I've plugged many tires, even super worn out tires.

nysheepy · Post by **nysheepy** » Tue Jun 09, 2015 1:52 pm

The puncture is in between the bottom tread area. Never heard of the plug method before, will try it. Thanks for the links and feedback guys!

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Tue Jun 09, 2015 8:38 pm

If you're down in between the tread, a plug should be a permanent repair. Do the repair when it is good and hot out, fill with air and put some miles on it, sit back and pat yourself on the back about all the time and money you saved!

Whimscootie · Post by **Whimscootie** » Fri Jun 12, 2015 10:25 pm

Yea, I've plugged a tire while mounted on the scoot. Buy a Slime kit at WalMart or other for cheap. It includes instructions, the plug, and punch tool. It is a 5 minute job. Learned about it on MB!

I also bought a small Slime mini compressor there that runs off 12v port. Has a gauge built right in. Keep your tires just where you want them and carry it with you on the road.

As long as the screw is not lodged in your sidewall. If that's the case then plugging is not recommended as a safe fix.

nysheepy · Post by **nysheepy** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 4:07 pm

Hi All, thanks for the great feedback. I did the plug method and used the exact same plugs DeeDee mentioned from amazon. Plugged it and pushed the bike .5 mile to gas station n pump air into it. Rode for 3 days...flawless! (even found a random pack of plugs on the floor during the walk (has a few sand/pebbles stuck to it - still good?) Images of the screw/plug could not be uploaded easily to MB.

I did come into another problem tho

. While riding over a bridge I felt there was a drag coming from rear wheel area. After getting off the bridge and to the side, found that the tire was fine, but the rear brake seems to be engaged, smoking hot and stuck that way. Did manage to loosen the brake cable to loosen the brake and finish my errands, however I think the rear brake shoe is totally worn out as it squeals and emits a bad smell when I engage it. I read somewhere that there is an indicator for the level of rear brake shoe left? Can anyone confirm? I'd describe it as the extension of the rear brake cable adjustment for brake operation, there is a tiny indicator there. (couldn't upload photo).

Possibly rookie mistake, I cleaned the end of the rear brake cable with brake cleaner since it seemed to have gunk on it. And also tightened it as I noticed it was a bit soft.

So advice needed, is my diagnosis correct? Do I need to change the rear brake shoes? Now that I understand the consequences of over tightening the rear brake (don't over tighten - allow the wheel to spin freely), do I need to also grease/lube the rear brake cable?

*Not sure if this should even be a new thread all on its own.
Thanks.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 5:16 pm

That baking smell is the friction material binding/adhesive vapor-phasing from your brake shoes.
Usually, the noise will go away after addressing the issue and after a bit of riding. That is, unless the shoes are too badly damaged. Fortunately, you have two brakes so you may re-bed the rear shoes while riding safely. However, be careful, as my liability in this discussion is limited to the value of the electrons being shared; $0.00!
If too much damage was done, you may need a new drum and shoes; not likely.

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 7:22 pm

The only sure way to know what is going on with your brakes is to pull the rear wheel and have a look. The rear drum pads on my Yamaha C3 still has 1/2 the life left with 20,000 miles on it. I can't speak for the buddy, but drum pads usually last a real long time. With that much heat back there, I think it would be wise to have a look.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Mon Jun 15, 2015 8:35 pm

Agreed!

nysheepy · Post by **nysheepy** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 12:47 pm

Update: I rode to work this morning (4 mile commute) after not touching the bike for 3 days. The bike stopped fine, a little squeaking in the beginning but seemed fine (*wipes sweat off brow).
It was reassuring to hear that the rear pads can last a good long while and probably don't need new ones...I have <2000 miles. Might have just needed to let it fully cool off.
Will continue to monitor. Thanks for sharing your electrons!

Modern Buddy

Nail / Screw in Tire

Nail / Screw in Tire

Updating my findings