Marvel Mystery Oil
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- charlie55
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Never used the stuff, but I used to use STP regularly in my first car ('73 Plymouth). Didn't really do much of anything as the rings started to go at about 40K miles. A few cans of Alemite CD2 stopped the smoking for a while but it was a lost cause. It burned so much oil that the EPA commandeered it to help clean up after the Exxon Valdez incident.
- Kaos
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I've used it before. The stuff is friggin fantastic if your motor is getting sad. I've seen it quiet valve clatter, stopped smoking, increase compression, reduce pre-detenation, and generally help what ales old motors. But its not a preventative measure. Its a quick fix for when something is starting to go to make it last a bit longer. So don't use it unless you NEED it.
- Kaos
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No, I used it in the fuel to quiet valve noises as well. I guess I'm a young old geezer It comes from the age of the cars I build I guessiwabj wrote:I knew I could arouse the old geezers around here
Okay, I'm being serious now. The above recommendations I am guessing are referring to the crankcase oil treatments, and not the fuel - correct?
- Major Redneck
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MM is somewhat old tech... its thin,,, it well losen up dirt and varnish stuck to the valve parts,,, again its thin... its good for what it does,,, it lubes the valve guides very well... but thats about it... when added to the fuel it coats the valves so they seat better but as charlie55 said its not going to get better with use... MM might be a little hard on rubber and nylon parts...
over the years iv tryed most all engine additives,,, (mostly in customers autos) what i add to my classics are Motor Honey in the crank every oil change ( and if i need oil between oil changes i use Motor Honey,,, oil i use is Valvoline MaxLife 10w40)... Motor Honey is very very THICK,,, its slicker than owl poo and messy and is very hard to get off whatever it gets onto... i also use Motor Honey in other applications such as door pins,,, door slides,,, locks,,, use with caution its messy... dip your key in Motor Honey use in lock,,, reply if needed,,, use goo gone to clean up... Lock love you long time... use a toothpick for other small jobs...
and every 3 full tanks of gas burned i add 1oz of SeaFoam to each 2gals of gas...(10gal tank = 5oz Seafoam) by doing this its taken away my hobbie of messin with my autos,,, they run so well... if its not broken dont fix it!!!
if you use Motor Honey the first time that you start your engine from being cold you well see it takes longer for it to heat to normal temp... less fiction... Motor Honey is about 4 bucks SeaFoam is close to 10 bucks now...
over the years iv tryed most all engine additives,,, (mostly in customers autos) what i add to my classics are Motor Honey in the crank every oil change ( and if i need oil between oil changes i use Motor Honey,,, oil i use is Valvoline MaxLife 10w40)... Motor Honey is very very THICK,,, its slicker than owl poo and messy and is very hard to get off whatever it gets onto... i also use Motor Honey in other applications such as door pins,,, door slides,,, locks,,, use with caution its messy... dip your key in Motor Honey use in lock,,, reply if needed,,, use goo gone to clean up... Lock love you long time... use a toothpick for other small jobs...
and every 3 full tanks of gas burned i add 1oz of SeaFoam to each 2gals of gas...(10gal tank = 5oz Seafoam) by doing this its taken away my hobbie of messin with my autos,,, they run so well... if its not broken dont fix it!!!
if you use Motor Honey the first time that you start your engine from being cold you well see it takes longer for it to heat to normal temp... less fiction... Motor Honey is about 4 bucks SeaFoam is close to 10 bucks now...
Scoot'in is more fun than beating up your sister, and it comes with a key!!!
- BuddyRaton
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I'm with Kaos and Dennis on this one. The last time I used it was on my 79 P200.
I bought it dirt cheap because the shifter tube was stuck. I got that cleaned up and then found out the clutch plates were stuck. I tried pushing ..bumping...riding in first only but nothing...still stuck together.
Then...I went ghetto.
Drained the gear oil and filled it with....yep...MM.
I got it running in first, got it hot and kept hammering it with the clutch pulled...they finally let go! Drained the MM and refilled with 30ND.
Not a cure...but it is letting me do a few other things before I drop the motor for a rebuild.
I bought it dirt cheap because the shifter tube was stuck. I got that cleaned up and then found out the clutch plates were stuck. I tried pushing ..bumping...riding in first only but nothing...still stuck together.
Then...I went ghetto.
Drained the gear oil and filled it with....yep...MM.
I got it running in first, got it hot and kept hammering it with the clutch pulled...they finally let go! Drained the MM and refilled with 30ND.
Not a cure...but it is letting me do a few other things before I drop the motor for a rebuild.
"Things fall apart - it's scientific" - David Byrne
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
- Kaos
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I'd try plain old carb cleaner first. If its still running at all, you'll probably clean up with some carb cleaner.iwabj wrote:thanks geezers and not so geezers.
I have a hard time appreciating how this stuff can really make a difference. I mean cleaning the crud off the valve seats would make it quieter is hard for me to comprehend . . . anyhow, thanks.
Someone made reference to the fact that we are being supplied with more ethanol and this has a tendency to gum up carbs! Mine has been a little temper mental lately (running rough and stalling out) at low power settings (not used very much around here) and thought I might give it a try.
BTW, its approaching 5K
- jmkjr72
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ohhhhh yes i love the mystery oil
it works wonders
i have unseized engines by soaking the bore with it
if you have one that has sat for decades without running pour it down the plug holes and let it sit for a week or so and away you go
i have used it to quite down noisy lifters
marvel and seafoam are a wrenchers best friends
it works wonders
i have unseized engines by soaking the bore with it
if you have one that has sat for decades without running pour it down the plug holes and let it sit for a week or so and away you go
i have used it to quite down noisy lifters
marvel and seafoam are a wrenchers best friends
- bluebuddygirl
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TVB wrote:Just don't confuse Marvel Mystery Oil with this.
Eeewwww!
- Roose Hurro
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Hmmm... been using the stuff in my car for quite some time. Started off using Prolong from new, but that stuff's expensive, and wasn't always available, so I switched. About 92,000 miles now, purrs like the proverbial kitten, doesn't eat a drop of oil.Kaos wrote:I've used it before. The stuff is friggin fantastic if your motor is getting sad. I've seen it quiet valve clatter, stopped smoking, increase compression, reduce pre-detenation, and generally help what ales old motors. But its not a preventative measure. Its a quick fix for when something is starting to go to make it last a bit longer. So don't use it unless you NEED it.
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- jmkjr72
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well belive it or not the e 10 has been the main gas for about 3 years now so its not a major switch there had been a few stations that held out to the last minuteiwabj wrote: Someone made reference to the fact that we are being supplied with more ethanol and this has a tendency to gum up carbs! Mine has been a little temper mental lately (running rough and stalling out) at low power settings (not used very much around here) and thought I might give it a try.
when you let things sit e10 may gum things up but more of the guming is actauly comming from all the additives that are in the fuel
ethonal actauly burns cleaner and bruns more crap off
the pluged up carbs anf injectors that are blamed on ethonal are from the fact that it cleans everything to inclug the tank so it brakes the stuff up and cleans everything along the way and if you dont have a fuel filter or yous is plugging and gunning in bypass mode the junk goes to your carb/injector
if you are worried that things are starting to cum up a bit and dont want to tare aprat the carb you could run some seafoam thru the tank that would work better then marvel for this aplication
but if it was tuely the ethonal that is gumming up your carb you will need to take it apart becasue it will be a chunk in your jet but your scoot shouldnt run if that was the case or if it did it would be deadly lean
- Not A Chance
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I'm not a fan of Seafoam. It is Pale Oil, Naptha, and Isopropyl alcohol:iwabj wrote:<B>Sea Foam</B> is composed solely of three specially blended petroleum oils – each having specific functions such as lubricating, cleaning or moisture control. There are no other chemicals (not even color dyes)* included in the formulation. Being of the same basic petroleum chemistry as the motor oils and gasoline you already use in your engine, Sea Foam is completely compatible with all engine components, fuels, lubricants and other additives you may have in your engine. Sea Foam will not damage gaskets or seals, and will not interact in a negative way with motor oil or fuel, or the additives used in them.
*I am guessing this is a pot shot directed towards MMO
http://www.montanajacks.com/msds/seafoam-msds.pdf
Think of it this way. The most expensive materials coming from a barrel of oil is compounds that are in Gasoline, Diesel fuel, and Jet kerosene. If the chemicals that are distilled out (petroleum distillates) are not good for Gasoline, Diesel Fuel, or Jet Kerosene then they distill them out and use them for other purposes. Think about it, if you were the refiner, would you distill out chemicals that you could sell for 50 cents per gallon instead of fuels that you can sell for 2.00 per gallon? No way. This should give everyone an insight into the petroleum industry and their practices.
Pale oil has a very low octane rating, burns smokey and leaves deposits in your oils, Naptha is used for dry cleaning clothes while drying out your fuel system components...attacking nylon, and IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) dries out seals and strips lubricity while absorbing moisture and promoting rust.
There are much better ways to clean/maintain your fuel system and engine than with these cheap compounds that have been around for 75+ years that birthed the term "snake oils". I use ACES IV in all my engines. It is designed without any petroleum distillates, alcohols, polymers or metals, and designed to promote octane, detergency, and lubricity.
Seafoam just cleans up deposits that shouldn't have been there in the first place. Combustion cleaners don't fix problems. They just temporarily mask the problem, and it does so using chemicals that are not good for many fuel system components.
If you have carbon deposits, you want to delaminate them from the carb, chambers and intake slowly, not throw carbon into valves, pistons and rings, etc. Also, Seafoam does not provide the lubrication that we need to deal with the harmful effects of Ethanol. Dry fuels without lubricity are a primary reason for bore and ring failure!
I use ACES IV in both my HEMI engines (6.1 Super Bee and 5.7 Jeep GC), and in both Buddy 150's. Here's a link to the ACES IV page on the BND website:
http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm
There's also ACES IV-2S for 2-cycle engines. Not only does ACES provide lubricity (which is especially needed with ethanol in our gasoline), it stabilizes the fuel (no need for STA-BIL, etc.).
I'd rather prevent any need for something like Seafoam..
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;
- Not A Chance
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Marvel Mystery Oil is made of Benzene, Mineral spirits, and Napthenic Hydrocarbons. Benzene is cancer causing and is a petroleum distillate. Mineral Spirits are paint thinners for oil paint. Napthenic Hydrocarbons are more distillates that lower the btu content in the gasoline and diesel fuel and deplete the additive packages in your engine oils.
Petroleum waste is bottled as fuel injector cleaners, octane boosters, and lead substitutes etc. This is the reason for the term "snake oils".
If you want to use something that is actually good for your engine, use ACES IV (see my sig below). It is not derived from petroleum (no snakes were harmed in its making). Seriously, it will increase the octane power in your fuel, produce a detergency 5 times better than the best detergent fuels available, and produce an upper cylinder synthetic lubricity that reduces bore wear by 600% and stem/guide wear by 360% (at least in car engines comparred to just using gasoline without any additives). I'm not sure how much different the percentages may be in our scooter engines).
Marvel Mystery Oil:
Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name BENZENE, 1,2-DICHLORO-
CAS Number 95501
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name MINERAL SPIRITS
CAS Number 8052413
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name NAPTHENIC HYDROCARBONS
CAS Number 64742525
Petroleum waste is bottled as fuel injector cleaners, octane boosters, and lead substitutes etc. This is the reason for the term "snake oils".
If you want to use something that is actually good for your engine, use ACES IV (see my sig below). It is not derived from petroleum (no snakes were harmed in its making). Seriously, it will increase the octane power in your fuel, produce a detergency 5 times better than the best detergent fuels available, and produce an upper cylinder synthetic lubricity that reduces bore wear by 600% and stem/guide wear by 360% (at least in car engines comparred to just using gasoline without any additives). I'm not sure how much different the percentages may be in our scooter engines).
Marvel Mystery Oil:
Ingredient # 01
Ingredient Name BENZENE, 1,2-DICHLORO-
CAS Number 95501
Ingredient # 02
Ingredient Name MINERAL SPIRITS
CAS Number 8052413
Ingredient # 03
Ingredient Name NAPTHENIC HYDROCARBONS
CAS Number 64742525
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;
- ScooterDave
- Most Likely to Spontaneously Combust
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I thought the ingredients of Marvel Mystery Oil were a mystery.
I have used it in both my Suburbans and have absolutely noticed a difference.
I have used it in both my Suburbans and have absolutely noticed a difference.
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- BuddyRaton
- Scooter Dork
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ummmm...how do you reduce something by 600%. If you reduce something by 100% arent you left with nothing? as in 0 X 600%=0?
And those nasty hydrocarbons...aren't they what motors run on?
I really don't want to "increase the octane power in your fuel". Octane isn't a power rating, higher octane changes the detonation point. Why would I want to make my Buddy run hotter?
And those nasty hydrocarbons...aren't they what motors run on?
I really don't want to "increase the octane power in your fuel". Octane isn't a power rating, higher octane changes the detonation point. Why would I want to make my Buddy run hotter?
"Things fall apart - it's scientific" - David Byrne
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
- kneil67@yahoo.com
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im a 159% sure your 160% correctBuddyRaton wrote:ummmm...how do you reduce something by 600%. If you reduce something by 100% arent you left with nothing? as in 0 X 600%=0?
And those nasty hydrocarbons...aren't they what motors run on?
I really don't want to "increase the octane power in your fuel". Octane isn't a power rating, higher octane changes the detonation point. Why would I want to make my Buddy run hotter?
- Kaos
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Octane is just a rating of the burn rate of the fuel. Higher octane gas burns slower therefore releasing it's energy more completely. If your motor can take advantage of that slower burn rate release by igniting sooner and having a higher compression so you've got more O2 in the cylinder for the fuel to react with, well then you get more power. If you don't, then you just have more heat.BuddyRaton wrote:ummmm...how do you reduce something by 600%. If you reduce something by 100% arent you left with nothing? as in 0 X 600%=0?
And those nasty hydrocarbons...aren't they what motors run on?
I really don't want to "increase the octane power in your fuel". Octane isn't a power rating, higher octane changes the detonation point. Why would I want to make my Buddy run hotter?
- Not A Chance
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True, you don't see it every day, but if you Google for "synthetic lubricity", you'll see that it's pretty common...DennisD wrote:Now there's some fun terminology!Not A Chance wrote: ...synthetic lubricity...
That's exactly why I made that post, you want to know what's going in your engine (or at least be sure it's not harmful in the long run). I have no duobt that you noticed a difference. My point is that over the long run, MMO is not a good product for your engine. And, as I said in an earlier post, you want to delaminate carbon deposits them from the carb, chambers, valves, and intake slowly, not throw carbon into valves, pistons and rings, etc.ScooterDave wrote:I thought the ingredients of Marvel Mystery Oil were a mystery.
I have used it in both my Suburbans and have absolutely noticed a difference.
Left with nothing? No, not at all. I'll bet if I said 6 times less wear instead of 600% it would have made a little more sense. Let's try an example:BuddyRaton wrote:ummmm...how do you reduce something by 600%. If you reduce something by 100% arent you left with nothing? as in 0 X 600%=0?
Suppose you have a baseline (normal) wear value of 50 ppm and Product A reduces the wear down to 45 ppm. That's a 5 ppm wear reduction. Now, suppose Product B reduces the wear from 50 ppm to 20 ppm. That's a reduction of 30 ppm. You could then say that product B reduced the wear 600% more than product A, or you could say Product B reduced the wear 6 times more than Product A. 6 time more is definitely not nothing.
In Summary form for those that don't like word problems:
Normal Wear = 50 ppm
Product A Wear = 45 ppm
Product B Wear = 20 ppm
Product A Wear Reduction = 50 - 45 = 5 ppm
Product B Wear Reduction = 50 - 20 = 30 ppm
Product A Wear Reduction = 100% (by definition)
Product B Wear Reduction = 600% (6 times better)
Easy Peasy!! (now that's a fun word or two...)
That's the problem with hydrocarbons, some of them are very nasty - especially for your engine. Even motor oil is largely hydrocarbons, but you wouldn't purposely burn it in a 4-cycle engine. And petroleum distillates that are sold as cleaners are the junk that didn't make it into the higher profit products like gasoline. I may sound repetitive here, but if you were the refiner, would you distill out chemicals that you could sell for 50 cents per gallon instead of fuels that you can sell for 2.00 per gallon? No way. This should give everyone an insight into the petroleum industry and their practices.Kaos wrote:Octane is just a rating of the burn rate of the fuel. Higher octane gas burns slower therefore releasing it's energy more completely. If your motor can take advantage of that slower burn rate release by igniting sooner and having a higher compression so you've got more O2 in the cylinder for the fuel to react with, well then you get more power. If you don't, then you just have more heat.BuddyRaton wrote:And those nasty hydrocarbons...aren't they what motors run on?
I really don't want to "increase the octane power in your fuel". Octane isn't a power rating, higher octane changes the detonation point. Why would I want to make my Buddy run hotter?
Good catch in the sentance where I said, "...it will increase the octane power in your fuel..". That should have read, "...it will increase the octane and power in your fuel..."
ACES IV does increase the Octane rating as mentioned, but it also raises utilization of BTU (energy content) of the gasoline by allowing for more complete oxidation which provides the additional power rather than just more heat as you mentioned. And, it does this while protecting against rust and corrosion and of course alcohol. Petroleum distillate additives have and octane rating of about 20.
Lucas is another product that has similar problems. ACES IV doesn't contain petroleum distillates.....read that Kerosene (petroleum hydrocarbons). You would do as much just dumping a 5.25 oz of mineral spirits in your tank and get the same results. It ends up stripping lubricity and causing your oil to use up it's detergents and dispersants faster.
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/msds/101072.pdf
Look at the vapor pressure....-0- where as gasoline has a vapor pressure of 14. It's like putting a wet log on a raging fire!
I'm just trying to inform my scooter buddy's of a product and company that I have found to be great. I have no other interest in BND Automotive. Give it a try and see rather than use these "bottom of the barrel" products...
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;
- DennisD
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I must have done something wrong. It listed a bunch of porn sites! Those are pretty common also.Not A Chance wrote:True, you don't see it every day, but if you Google for "synthetic lubricity", you'll see that it's pretty common...
I did try again though and came up with some weird screen play titled "Attack of the Closet Scientists". Just not my day I guess.
- kneil67@yahoo.com
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this is to much like an infomercial to funny on the google searchesDennisD wrote:I must have done something wrong. It listed a bunch of porn sites! Those are pretty common also.Not A Chance wrote:True, you don't see it every day, but if you Google for "synthetic lubricity", you'll see that it's pretty common...
I did try again though and came up with some weird screen play titled "Attack of the Closet Scientists". Just not my day I guess.
I hit some crazy porn when I googled fat albert hey hey hey
- BuddyRaton
- Scooter Dork
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Will it unstick clutch plates on a 79 P200e?
"Things fall apart - it's scientific" - David Byrne
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
- kneil67@yahoo.com
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- pugbuddy
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- DennisD
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When oil is at least a quart low, top off with motor honey and drive to the nearest dealer of choice. Trade, drive away.pugbuddy wrote:So if my RAV4--with 175000 miles on it--is burning oil, what can I use that will keep it from doing so? This techy-talk is too far beyond me; gimme the short answer.
- jmkjr72
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- BuddyRaton
- Scooter Dork
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Ethanol sucks
Seafoam Rocks!
Seafoam Rocks!
"Things fall apart - it's scientific" - David Byrne
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
www.teamscootertrash.com
'06 Cream Buddy 125, 11 Blur 220, 13 BMW C 650 GT, 68 Vespa SS180, 64 Vespa GS MK II, 65 Lambretta TV 175, 67 Vespa GT, 64 Vespa 150 VBB 64 Vespa GL
- Not A Chance
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I hope you don't use STP regularily any more. I think it didn't do anything good, but I bet it did do something to help your rings fail. This is exactly what I mean in my earler posts.charlie55 wrote:Never used the stuff, but I used to use STP regularly in my first car ('73 Plymouth). Didn't really do much of anything as the rings started to go at about 40K miles. A few cans of Alemite CD2 stopped the smoking for a while but it was a lost cause. It burned so much oil that the EPA commandeered it to help clean up after the Exxon Valdez incident.
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;
- charlie55
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Well, I didn't give you the entire background on the car, but it tends to place the blame elsewhere. Here's what I remember:
1) It was a Chrysler product.
2) It was a big-ass, overweight Chrysler product.
3) It was a big-ass, overweight Chrysler that ate outer wheel bearings, brake caliper pins, and ballast resistors like cocktail peanuts, went through gas like sh*t through a goose, overheated like hell in the summer, and was impossible to start in the winter.
4) When I got it, it had already been used for car service in Brooklyn. That means a brutal life full of potholes, stop-and-go city driving, abusive drivers, incompetent mechanics, and virtually no real maintenance.
I doubt that STP helped kill it, and I strongly doubt that ACES IV, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Lydia Friggin' Pinkham's Herbal Compound would have saved it.
This baby was doomed from the start.
1) It was a Chrysler product.
2) It was a big-ass, overweight Chrysler product.
3) It was a big-ass, overweight Chrysler that ate outer wheel bearings, brake caliper pins, and ballast resistors like cocktail peanuts, went through gas like sh*t through a goose, overheated like hell in the summer, and was impossible to start in the winter.
4) When I got it, it had already been used for car service in Brooklyn. That means a brutal life full of potholes, stop-and-go city driving, abusive drivers, incompetent mechanics, and virtually no real maintenance.
I doubt that STP helped kill it, and I strongly doubt that ACES IV, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Lydia Friggin' Pinkham's Herbal Compound would have saved it.
This baby was doomed from the start.
- Not A Chance
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Here's the data sheet on STP Gas Treatment:charlie55 wrote: 3) ...overheated like hell in the summer, and was impossible to start in the winter.
4) When I got it, it had already been used for car service in Brooklyn. That means a brutal life full of potholes, stop-and-go city driving, abusive drivers, incompetent mechanics, and virtually no real maintenance.
I doubt that STP helped kill it, and I strongly doubt that ACES IV, Marvel Mystery Oil, or Lydia Friggin' Pinkham's Herbal Compound would have saved it.
http://www.thecloroxcompany.com/product ... atment.pdf
Once again we see that it is mostly petrolium distillates, "bottom of the barrel" side products that are not good enough to be incorporated into fuels. Your car may have been a gonner, not because it was heavy, certainly not because it was a MOPAR, but most likely due to neglect before you got it. However, the STP you used stripped any remaining lubricity from the rings and cylinder walls and could only hasten its demise. It was probably too far gone for ACES IV to help, or anything other than a .003 overbore, but I'm certain that the physics hasn't changed since then. These products simply prove that marketing really works...
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;
- Major Redneck
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Ethanol still sucks
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TVB wrote:Bit I still suck ethanol.BuddyRaton wrote:Ethanol still sucks
You are not permitted to use MARVEL mystery oil
Flash is DC...NOT MARVEL!
"Things fall apart - it's scientific" - David Byrne
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Techron Rocks!
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That is all well and good but, the ultimate question is will ACES IV improve my standings with the ladies?Not A Chance wrote:If you want to use something that is actually good for your engine, use ACES IV (see my sig below)
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That brings up a good point Scooter David,
Did you folks know that most aftershaves, and colognes(sp), that men use contain mostly alcohol and petroleum based products with only a little bit of actual scent ingriedients.
So you are being duped by putting this stuff on and thinking it helps with the lady's. At best it is purely a quick fix for quite possibly being a bit careless with your hygene.
Moreover, if you apply too much of said product thinking that overkill is the best route, it will actually decrease your chances of finding that special lady to come home to, and having an evening filled with synthetic lubricatical possibilities.
IMHO it is best to use preventative messures, by say, taking a shower, buttoning your top four buttons on your shirt, and removing the phrase "Hey TooTS!" from your vernacular, insted of using said products.
Did you folks know, that before the advent of soaps and perfumes, you could smell the people of a town miles before you got there...
Did you folks know that most aftershaves, and colognes(sp), that men use contain mostly alcohol and petroleum based products with only a little bit of actual scent ingriedients.
So you are being duped by putting this stuff on and thinking it helps with the lady's. At best it is purely a quick fix for quite possibly being a bit careless with your hygene.
Moreover, if you apply too much of said product thinking that overkill is the best route, it will actually decrease your chances of finding that special lady to come home to, and having an evening filled with synthetic lubricatical possibilities.
IMHO it is best to use preventative messures, by say, taking a shower, buttoning your top four buttons on your shirt, and removing the phrase "Hey TooTS!" from your vernacular, insted of using said products.
Did you folks know, that before the advent of soaps and perfumes, you could smell the people of a town miles before you got there...
"Hey You, yeah, all you'se thoughts, specially you, creepy wierd one in the corner, Screw you guys, I'm going for a ride..."
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Very good analogy, Wheelz!
Mods: Black Rear Rack; Prima scooter cover; Black Front Bumper (ordered); Windscreen; Matte Black Top Case; <a href="http://www.bndautomotive.com/page/page/931760.htm" target="_blank">ACES IV</a>;