More problems with Hi low light switch

TheHead · Post by **TheHead** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 2:36 pm

Hi Guys/Gals,

I had a problem a few weeks ago with a bad hi low switch , I found a break in the switch (confirmed with multi meetr) an ended up replacing the switch.

After I replaced the switch everthing was OK the light was working , I went for a ride yesterday and found that the Hi light will not come on , it only slightly lights the bulb. I opened up the top panel with all the gauges to expose the wires and removed the switch to test eveything and dont see whats causing this.

When I flip the switch between high and low I dont get the 12VDC to the high bulb only a fraction of that .7VDC and a dimly lit high beam , I tested the switch and found that while I have continuity between all 3 contacts the restistance changes , is this normal for this switch? Does the light use a change is the resistance to switch between hi and Low? I dont think is correct , I assume the switch should so no continuity until the switch is moved between the two positions.

I checked the manual and its nots the best for trouble shooting , it just says check for continuity to see if the switch is woring but doesnt really explain the difference you will see in the 2 positions.

Does anyone have a better wiring diagram that shows specifics of the switch and voltages that should be present so I can better troubleshoot? Or could I possibly buy a similiar switch from radio shack or auto parts store just to wire in quick to test the lights?

Thanks for reading!

Bcon · Post by **Bcon** » Fri Sep 02, 2011 3:45 pm

There shouldn't be a huge resistance difference between the high and low beam switch positions (you don't mention the difference in resistance), and there should be full volatage (12V) at each.

The low voltage really sounds like a bad connection, either a loose/corroded terminal connection, or a wire that is broken inside the insulation and only has a couple threads hanging on.

I'm afraid these things are nearly impossible to diagnose without seeing it in person, so you'll have to keep at it until you find the problem.

JPL · Post by **JPL** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 5:25 am

I'm having simillar trouble with a brand new 4t (1 week - 120 miles). The high beams won't work unless the scooter is in 1st or neutral, the horn sounds squirrely at all times unless in neutral and I'm having a lot of trouble getting from netral to 1st.

It's still under warranty and I'm sure the shop will take care of it, but it's a bit frustrating that a brand new bike would have these problems.

desmolicious · Post by **desmolicious** » Sun Sep 04, 2011 6:40 pm

JPL wrote:
It's still under warranty and I'm sure the shop will take care of it, but it's a bit frustrating that a brand new bike would have these problems.

I have had similar problems and the shop sorted them out. It may be a new bike, but it's a made in India new bike which really does not have the same QA standards as something made in Japan, Taiwan, S.Korea, Europe etc.

If your shop is decent, they should be easily able to address these issues and then you'll be good to go. It tends to be a matter of wires not routed correctly.

I have found that the best way to get first gear is to shift into neutral, release the clutch, then pull it in and shift into first. You can shift into neutral coming to a stop, but shift into first once stopped. The gearing is so low on this bike that if you are moving you do not need first.

My Vespa PX is the same way, so I think this is how these transmissions behave.

JPL · Post by **JPL** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 2:39 am

Just got the scooter back from the shop and all is well (for now). In addition to the electric issues with the horn and hi-beams, the kick starter was installed incorrectly and the motor was leaking oil on the drive.

The shop fixed the electrical issues, installed a new kick-starter and said the leaking was probably coming from a not tight enough drain cap- we'll see.

Nice service from the shop, all covered by warranty and all seems to be fixed now.

Post by **ericalm** » Sun Sep 11, 2011 10:03 pm

desmolicious wrote:I have found that the best way to get first gear is to shift into neutral, release the clutch, then pull it in and shift into first. You can shift into neutral coming to a stop, but shift into first once stopped. The gearing is so low on this bike that if you are moving you do not need first.

I've also found when downshifting that when it's my instinct to squeeze the clutch tighter, it often means I should do the opposite and that easing up on it a bit makes downshifting better. This has been the case on the 3 Stella 4Ts I've ridden.