Lower Headset Replacement DIY

flatblackbuddy · Post by **flatblackbuddy** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 4:09 pm

Below is a step by step procedure for replacing the lower headset plastic on the Buddy. I have a 2009 Buddy 125, but I would imagine this would be the same or very similar for all Buddy models.

Disclaimer: This is a labor intensive job, but easy to do and will save you AT LEAST an hour of shop time.

Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/65735849@N ... 713054370/

Disassembly
- Remove upper headset, headlight, front cover, and mirrors. These all have other threads so I'm not going to go into detail here.
- If you haven't already done so, disconnect the speedometer by unscrewing the cable and disconnecting the wiring clip
- To make the entire disassembly easier, unbolt the handlebars from the steering column using two 14 mm wrenches. It's nearly impossible to get a socket in there so just wrench it apart.
- Unscrew the lower heasdset plastic from the handlebars by removing the two screws on the outside of the plastic and the two top screws holding the headset to the handlebar tabs. This will allow for more access when disassembling everything else.
- Unbolt the DOT turn signals from the headset using an 8 mm socket.
- Follow the wiring from the trun signals to the crimp connections (about 12 inches of wiring) and disconnect. Just pull these apart with your hands - no special tools needed. I recommend labeling each side of each connection for easier reassembly. In total you will have disconnected 4 wires (2 for each turn signal).
- Slide wiring out through the holes in the headset, and set turn signals aside.
- Remove left brake assembly. There is an upper and lower screw on the headlight side of the assembly, and once removed it will come apart. At this point you may want to unclip the two wire connections to clean things up a bit so there are not so many parts hanging from the headset. Again remember to label your wires.
- Remove right brake assembly. There are two allen bolts on the rider side of the handlebars that need to be removed. Once removed, let this assembly hang - DO NOT fiddle with hydraulic line or reservoir unless you want to bleed the brakes.
- Remove throttle cable and ignition assembly. Unscrew the retaining bracket on the bottom of the ignition assembly. Then CAREFULLY unscrew the upper and lower screws on the ignition assembly. Hold this together while unscrewing and slowly open it so that you can see the set up of the cable on the throttle sleeve (the plastic piece inside the grip) and how it fits in the ignition assembly.
- Once the ignition assembly is apart, remove the trottle cable from the retaining clip on the throttle sleeve.
- Slide the throttle cable out through the opening in the headset.
- On the downtube of the handlebars, you will see a steel wire around a rubber grommet, retaining the hydraulic brake line. Using a pliers, pull the end of this wire away from the downtube slightly. Then press down on the grommet (I did this with needlenose pliers) to force it out of the retaining wire.
- Slide all wiring out of the openings in the retaining wire loops (the small one for the brake line and the large one holding everything else).
- Lift handlebars up and out.
- Lift lower headset up and out, pulling all components through the opening.
Disassembly Complete

Reassembly
- Slide new lower headset back in place, feeding all components back through center opening.
- Feed throttle cable back through the opening in the lower portion of the plastic where you removed it from and secure it back onto the bottom of the ignition assembly via the screw and retaining clip.
- Bolt DOT turn signals back on to the headset and feed wires back through the openings. Do not rewire the crimp connections at this time.
- Slide handlebars back over the steering column but do not secure them yet.
- Place all wiring back into the retaining loops, making sure you replace the grommeted brake line back into the small retaining loop (you will again need the needlenose pliers for leverage).
- Reassemble the left brake assembly. There is a slot on the handlebars, so you won't have to worry about alignment as you will only be able to tighten the assembly down if you have it in the correct position. Again, this is just the upper and lower screws. If you have disconnected the wiring, leave it disconnected for now.
- 2 sets of hands are required for this part. Replace the ignition assembly, by first reattaching the throttle cable to the tabs on the throttle sleeve. Fit the ignition assembly over the tabs on the end of the throttle sleeve and screw it down. Again, there is a slot on the handlebar for alignment so you cant screw this up. If you've gotten the throttle sleeve tabs in the correct opening in the ignition assembly, the throttle will turn freely as usual. If not, the throttle won't turn and you'll have to loosen things up, twist the throttle towards the seat and tighten it back down.
- Replace right brake assembly by screwing down the two allen bolts you previously removed. By now you will understand why you haven't yet secured the handlebars or headset plastic in place. You'll be happy you can move things around for clearance.
- At this point you can reconnect all of your wiring, ensuring that everything has room to move when turning the handlebars, and nothing binds.
- It's time to bold the handlebars back in place. There is a slot in the steering column that accepts the pin welded inside the handlebar downtube. The easiest way to line these up is to stand with your feet holding the front wheel staight forward, and dropping the handlebars straight down. You'll feel the pin slide into place and notice that the handlebars now direct the movement of the wheel.
- Reattach the bolt through the mount on handlebar downtube where you previously removed it and tighten it down. I'm sure there is a torque spec on this but I was unable to even get a low profile socket in there so I just tightened with two wrenches until I couldn't turn it anymore.
- Screw the lower headset back onto the mounting points on the handlebars (4 screws) and reassemble the speedo, headlight, upper headset, and mirrors.

YOU'RE DONE!!!!

Some things to watch out for:
-Save all mounting hardware and make sure you know where each screw goes. Replacement parts don't come with hardware.

- The rubber grommet is a pain to get out. Have patience.

- While you're kicking yourself for taking on this project, think about the hundreds of dollars in labor you are saving to replace a $15 part.

GOOD LUCK!

Dave

rickko · Post by **rickko** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:40 pm

Excellent writeup!

Make a request to get it permanently posted in the Tech Forum section. Ask a moderator or Eric.

..rickko..

Skootz Kabootz · Post by **Skootz Kabootz** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:45 pm

Awesome. Thanks!

Post by **ericalm** » Mon Sep 19, 2011 7:58 pm

Thanks for this! I'll add to the tech section and FAQ once you add your pics.

flatblackbuddy · Post by **flatblackbuddy** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:25 am

Will do but first I have to figure out how to take smaller pictures so I can upload them. I'm flummoxed by all the buttons on my camera

Post by **ericalm** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:42 am

flatblackbuddy wrote:Will do but first I have to figure out how to take smaller pictures so I can upload them. I'm flummoxed by all the buttons on my camera

Take big pics then shrink them!
http://modernvespa.com/forum/wiki-resize

flatblackbuddy · Post by **flatblackbuddy** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 2:41 pm

OK - I added a link to the photos on Flickr because I couldn't get them to upload into this thread.

jonlink · Post by **jonlink** » Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:22 pm

Thanks for doing this! You are a scooter-star.

Danny-B · Post by **Danny-B** » Fri Jan 03, 2014 7:52 pm

This was so helpful!!!!
Thank you