Mods/accessories for dream Stella 4T

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Fri Jan 11, 2013 4:19 pm

I have wanted a scooter for a loooong time, and plan on buying a Stella 4T in March. In the meantime, I am researching the various accessories and mods that I would like to add to the scoot.

I know I want to add the Cuppini 3in1 rear rack with the spare tire holder and low backrest. I also want to add a flyscreen, the Prima front bumper and cowl protectors, the Cuppini leg shield guards, and the PX glovebox tray.

Eventually, I will be getting whitewall tires, and chromed rims, but that can wait.

Can anyone suggest a disc brake lock that will fit the Stella? Is there a helmet lock that can be swapped for the stock plastic hook? Does the lighting require any upgrades?

Are there any little tweaks or mods that needs to be done to the Stella? I heard something about getting a vented gas cap. Is there anything else?

Thanks!!
Phred

Southerner · Post by **Southerner** » Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:04 am

I believe one can still buy a generic metal helmet lock that fits around any round metal pipe, such as a handlebar but I dont know where this would best fit on a Stella. Perhaps on the rack or legshield guard you mention.

Post by **ericalm** » Sat Jan 12, 2013 12:55 am

This might be a straight swap for the stock hook:
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... l_12960000

You can also mount a hook under the seat:
http://www.scooterwest.com/items/Vintag ... em_id=2255

BUT, the "built-in" lock: Lift seat; hang helmet from cowl levers using the D-ring on the chin strap; close seat; lock seat.

Disk lock for Stella: http://www.scooterwest.com/items/?_page ... Cable/1804

I haven't tried this one, but the site says it'll fit! The XENA I have does NOT fit, I know that much.

The lighting is fine (for me). I can wait until something burns out to replace it.

One small mod recommendation: Replace the main fuse (by the battery) with a blade fuse.

Maximus53 · Post by **Maximus53** » Sat Jan 12, 2013 3:49 pm

ericalm wrote: One small mod recommendation: Replace the main fuse (by the battery) with a blade fuse.

Hey Eric. Why?

rondothemidget · Post by **rondothemidget** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:00 am

ericalm wrote:This might be a straight swap for the stock hook:
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... l_12960000

First-hand experience, this won't be a straight swap. I fortunately live a few miles from ScooterShop and was able to test whether it fit and return it. It will fit if you drill out the holes in the Stella a little which I was reluctant to do at the time. The holes are just slightly off so it wouldn't take much. The part is really nice and a big improvement over the original.

I strongly recommend using a magnet to catch the washer and nut when you take them off or you'll be making a hardware store run. And it gets tricky screwing them back on because you can't get your fingers in the opening.

rondothemidget · Post by **rondothemidget** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 3:04 am

ericalm wrote:You can also mount a hook under the seat:
http://www.scooterwest.com/items/Vintag ... em_id=2255

ScooterShop has these too and it didn't fit at all. It was the seat hinge or something else that was very different than the PX.

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Sat Jan 19, 2013 2:48 am

Thanks for all of the responses, I really appreciate them.

I do have one question for ericalm: Why replace the fuse type? And won't that affect my warranty?

SockyTX · Post by **SockyTX** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:30 pm

I like most in the community enjoy customizing my scoot. I got the 3 in 1 rear rack, spare holder & back rest. I have the slate and white 2 tone Stella which comes with a grey seat. The 3in1 came with a black back rest. Per my request my scooter shop, Moxie Scooters in Colleville TX, had the pad reupholstered in grey to match my seat. I also had them add some stitching in the pad. I think it is one of my favorite mods so far. All mods I've done so far have been cosmetic. I have been hesitant to mod performance 1 cause she performs through a range that suits my needs and 2 I do not want to have any warranty claims denied because of performance mods. This is not to say that there aren't times when WOT just isn't enough but for now I'm content. Best of luck with your future Stella!

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:45 pm

slotrod65 wrote:Thanks for all of the responses, I really appreciate them.

I do have one question for ericalm: Why replace the fuse type? And won't that affect my warranty?

Much easier these days to find blade fuses in the grocery, drug, or auto parts stores. Tube fuses are becoming endangered. Swapping out the tube holder and fuse for a comparable blade fuse and holder gives you a lot more options if you get stranded.

Lokky · Post by **Lokky** » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:29 pm

PeteH wrote:
slotrod65 wrote:Thanks for all of the responses, I really appreciate them.

I do have one question for ericalm: Why replace the fuse type? And won't that affect my warranty?
Much easier these days to find blade fuses in the grocery, drug, or auto parts stores. Tube fuses are becoming endangered. Swapping out the tube holder and fuse for a comparable blade fuse and holder gives you a lot more options if you get stranded.

Then again a burnt battery fuse does not mean you are stranded on a Stella

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 1:46 am

I repair guitar amps, so I have an ample supply of the classic tube type fuses, in various amperages. Is there an issue with anything except getting your hands on these fuses?

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:45 am

Check their voltage rating - i R not an electrical engineer, but most tube fuses i've found at the Shack are (x) amps at 120v rather than 12v.

I can never remember if amps is amps or watts is watts.

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:37 pm

To simplify D.C. think of a water pipe (the wire) and the battery (the pump)
Amps are volume and volts are the pressure within the pipe (circuit).
The ground is a drain going back to the water supply (battery).

To protect the pipe (wire and whatever it is attached to) from bursting (burning) due to the fact the pump (battery) has more available amperage (pressure) than the pipe (wire) could carry if it was damaged in any way that would allow the water (current) to go directly to the drain (ground), a safety valve (fuse) is employed.
This valve (fuse) will shut off the water (circuit) anytime the volume (amperage) approaches a pre-determined volume (amperage) thereby protecting the pipe (wire and circuit) from any further damage.

I think I did OK for a five A.M. discussion.

Watts law.......Volts X Amps = Watts........12v X 5a = 60 watts.......example 2........100w divided by 12v = 8.33333......Amps.

Have fun,

Rob

PeteH · Post by **PeteH** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 2:37 pm

Yep, v x A = watts, which likely means that a circuit on a scoot fused from the factory at, say, 20A effectively means a 240w load, give or take. If you replaced that fuse with a Radio Shack 20A 120V fuse, it would thus be way over-fused (2400w before blow), perhaps allowing some other wiring to melt?

The nice thing about blade fuses is that they're all 12V. Much less confusing

graywolf · Post by **graywolf** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:49 pm

Well, I can see electrical knowledge is not you guys strong point.

If you have to compare it to something you can see:
Volts (Potential) is Pressure
Amps are Flow (equivalent to gallons per hour)
Watts are directly equivalent to horsepower (746watts + 1hp).

Your 12v battery provides the push to move the
amps drawn by your device. The fuse keeps the device from drawing more amps than the system is capable of handling.

Let's take the starter motor as the device because it draws the most current. You turn the key and if everything is working properly the starter turns the engine over and it starts.

Now if you battery is down (low volts) there is not enough push to provide the amps to turn the starter. It just grunts and that's it.

If there is something wrong, say the engine is froze up, then the starter tries to draw more amps to turn it over. that is dangerous because pulling too much current can damage the battery, wiring, or the motor. So that fuse blows, preventing that.

The other things the fuse protects you from are shorts. Say vibration causes a wire to rub and eventually the insulation is gone and the wire shorts to the body of your scooter. That is a direct short and can pull hundreds or thousands of amps causing things to burst into flame almost before you can get off your scooter it is burning like a bonfire. Luckily you have that 30amp fuse so it blows cutting off the current and you still own a motor scooter. Of course it is a motor scooter without lights or horn or anything.

If you get the idea from the above that you should inspect your scooter pretty thoroughly before replacing that 30 amp fuse, you understood it well enough for practical purposes.

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Mon Jan 21, 2013 9:45 pm

If I'm not mistaken, the starter motor circuit is unfused on a Stella 4T.

There is no 30A fuse; the 8A main fuse is the only one, and the cheapo fuse holder is unreliable. I had to modify mine with with a bit of coil spring to maintain good contact.

Will likely replace the fuse holder when I get around to it.

JohnKiniston · Post by **JohnKiniston** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:24 pm

Actually there are two fuses on the 4T Stella's, Just like the later 2T Stella's there is one hidden under the horn cast as well as the one on the battery box.

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:45 pm

JohnKiniston wrote:Actually there are two fuses on the 4T Stella's, Just like the later 2T Stella's there is one hidden under the horn cast as well as the one on the battery box.

Hmm... not shown on the wiring diagram for mine that I can find (one of the first production batch).

JohnKiniston · Post by **JohnKiniston** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 5:53 pm

Yeah, There are a bunch of different diagrams out there for the bikes, It's really there I promise!

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Tue Jan 22, 2013 6:25 pm

JohnKiniston wrote:Yeah, There are a bunch of different diagrams out there for the bikes, It's really there I promise!

Why does that not surprise me?

Thanks.

Eazy · Post by **Eazy** » Thu Feb 07, 2013 11:17 pm

rondothemidget wrote:
ericalm wrote:You can also mount a hook under the seat:
http://www.scooterwest.com/items/Vintag ... em_id=2255
ScooterShop has these too and it didn't fit at all. It was the seat hinge or something else that was very different than the PX.

I wonder what changed? I had one of these on my 2 stroke and it fit perfect.

rondothemidget · Post by **rondothemidget** » Fri Feb 08, 2013 9:31 pm

Eazy wrote:
rondothemidget wrote:
ericalm wrote:You can also mount a hook under the seat:
http://www.scooterwest.com/items/Vintag ... em_id=2255
ScooterShop has these too and it didn't fit at all. It was the seat hinge or something else that was very different than the PX.
I wonder what changed? I had one of these on my 2 stroke and it fit perfect.

All I can remember is that it didn't line up right with the seat hinge. Maybe the seats are different on the 4T???

alexandercase · Post by **alexandercase** » Sat Feb 09, 2013 10:06 am

rondothemidget wrote:
Eazy wrote:
rondothemidget wrote: ScooterShop has these too and it didn't fit at all. It was the seat hinge or something else that was very different than the PX.
I wonder what changed? I had one of these on my 2 stroke and it fit perfect.
All I can remember is that it didn't line up right with the seat hinge. Maybe the seats are different on the 4T???

Have this on my 4t and fits perfectly fine....

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Sun Feb 10, 2013 6:56 pm

alexandercase wrote:
rondothemidget wrote:
Eazy wrote: I wonder what changed? I had one of these on my 2 stroke and it fit perfect.
All I can remember is that it didn't line up right with the seat hinge. Maybe the seats are different on the 4T???
Have this on my 4t and fits perfectly fine....

Me too.

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 2:13 am

ericalm wrote:This might be a straight swap for the stock hook:
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... l_12960000

Does anyone know of somewhere to get this locking luggage hook in the US? SIP has a large minimum order, and the only other places I have found it listed are shops in the UK.

Spiffy · Post by **Spiffy** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 4:06 am

for a helmet lock I just use the cowl levers to hang my helmet(s) from, and then lock the seat...

yes, you want to get a vented gas cap, and a 1-way valve for the vent line coming from the top of the gas tank... insert the 1-way valve between where it comes out of the top of the tank to the block valve a few inches towards the rear so that it's one-way into the tank... this keeps the fuel from sloshing into the vapor recovery system and flooding the carb and blocking the only vent in the gas tank... put on a 2-stroke gas cap (green instead of orange) because they have a vent through the middle... this allows air to get in and prevents airlock which causes a lean mix and overheating and activating the thermal cutoff when accelerating or going uphill on a full tank...

I have the large folding rack on mine and although you can't use it as a backrest because it would just fold down (although I could zip-tie it, hmmm) there's a little bar that doesn't fold down that kind of keeps the passenger's ass from creeping back... there's already a spare tire in the left cowl so I didn't feel the need for the rack with the spare tire holder...

I was going to get one of the glovebox trays but nobody local had one... then I realized that I wanted to put a gauge or two down there on the top left of the glovebox and that wouldn't work with the tray there... ( I already put my 12v outlet on the bottom-left of the glovebox) and now I also know that everything would just bounce out of it anyway... I just keep my keychain short and non-metalic so it doesn't wear through the paint... I think I'll put some clear plastic over there actually...

cowl protectors are a good idea... both of mine are scratched from various incidents... wish I'd bought some...

the whitewalls are really nice looking... beware the Prima though as they will rub if you don't space them with washers... I'm going to try the Continental next time... the stock ones suck, you'll be amazed once you get new tires...

not sure about a disc lock... I attached a sidecar so that makes it a little harder to pick up and throw in a truck...

I've heard that you should go one size up on the carb jets, I think from 90 to 100, something like that... and a decent exhaust will help a little...

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 3:28 pm

Spiffy wrote: yes, you want to get a vented gas cap, and a 1-way valve for the vent line coming from the top of the gas tank... insert the 1-way valve between where it comes out of the top of the tank to the block valve a few inches towards the rear so that it's one-way into the tank... this keeps the fuel from sloshing into the vapor recovery system and flooding the carb and blocking the only vent in the gas tank... put on a 2-stroke gas cap (green instead of orange) because they have a vent through the middle... this allows air to get in and prevents airlock which causes a lean mix and overheating and activating the thermal cutoff when accelerating or going uphill on a full tank...

So: Get a 2T gas cap.

That one way valve you mention... do you have an example? Or a link? i am not sure even what it is.

Thanks!!

jp_spectrumfx · Post by **jp_spectrumfx** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 7:35 pm

In regards to lock suggestions, my girlfriend and I opted for a grip-lock over a disc lock. She has a Buddy 170i, and I a Stella 4t, and the grip-lock works perfect for both. Plus, there is no risk of forgetting to take your lock off, which may happen with the disc lock.

http://www.grip-lock.com/Grip-Locks/

anthony · Post by **anthony** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:25 pm

jp_spectrumfx wrote:In regards to lock suggestions, my girlfriend and I opted for a grip-lock over a disc lock. She has a Buddy 170i, and I a Stella 4t, and the grip-lock works perfect for both. Plus, there is no risk of forgetting to take your lock off, which may happen with the disc lock.

http://www.grip-lock.com/Grip-Locks/

It's pretty difficult to forget a disc lock if you have a reminder cable for it, which many come with (and even if they don't, you can get one for under $5), and I don't think it was in reference to this particular grip lock, but I decided against getting one after reading how easily one was to break apart with a hammer when the owner lost their keys. That said, it couldn't hurt to double up with a disc and grip lock. The more annoying you make it to steal, the less of a target your bike will be.

Spiffy · Post by **Spiffy** » Wed Feb 27, 2013 9:28 pm

slotrod65 wrote:That one way valve you mention... do you have an example? Or a link? i am not sure even what it is.

I used this one: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0157540952

I know it's for a vacuum line but it was the only one I had at the time and it seems to be working fine...

it helped a bit until I got the vented gas cap, which was the last piece... without the vented gas cap I would get build up pressure in the summer from the heat...

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:56 am

Thanks Spiffy, I am all clear now.

The Grip-Lock looked interesting until I saw the video on their own website of them hammering one open with the screwdriver.

IMHO, the Grip Lock is priced too high. The cheapest I can find one is $69.

Spiffy: I have a helmet I purchased in Italy and it does not have D rings on the chinstrap. I really need something like that locking luggage hook that SIP carries. Plus, I could polish it up super shiny...

Thanks everyone who has responded so far, I really appreciate it.

Now if I could just get the snow to melt...

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Thu Feb 28, 2013 8:16 pm

The GripLock is great for what it is: a very convenient, short-term theft deterrent for parking while you are out and about. I have one for each of the 4 scooters in my family for just that reason.

It is not -- by itself -- much of a solution for overnight security or parking on the street all day while you are at work.

Embrace it for what it is, not what you'd like it to be.

Modern Buddy