2009 genuine roughouse 50 oil change?

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marvin peters
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2009 genuine roughouse 50 oil change?

Post by marvin peters »

I bought a 2009 genuine roughouse 50 and i am not mechanically inclined. However i want to change my gear oil. What size wrench do i need to remove the drain plug and how much oil do i need to refill with. I am going to use maxima 80w90. Also how many miles should i go before oil changes. Any feed back would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by marvin peters on Fri Nov 08, 2013 4:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
dkw12002
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Post by dkw12002 »

It takes 90 cc or ml of gear oil which you know is different than engine oil. It should be 140 weight gear oil. The drain bolt is on the lower left side of the scooter near the back, pointed out to the side, and uses a 12 mm socket. You refill the gear oil using the white, plastic screw cap located in back and above the drain plug which is also on the very back of the transmission. It will drain best if you use the kick stand rather than the center stand. I always move bikes from side to side a little too, to try and get more out. It helps if the bike is hot too. I haven't done mine yet on my new scooter, but there will probably be a washer under the drain bolt. If so, don't lose it cause it might fall in whatever you use to collect the old oil and you could throw it away accidently. It doesn't always stay next to the bolt head. I'm sure 80-90 weight gear oil will work too, but the spec calls for 140 weight.
marvin peters
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rh 50 gear oil change?

Post by marvin peters »

Hey man i appreciate the feedback. The guy at the scooter shop sold me maxima 80w90 API for my gear oil which it has in it now. I don't want to waste it if it will get me by. Should i ditch this stuff and get the 140 weight. Am i going to be ok to use the rest of this then switch to the 140. Also what kind of gear oil do you reccomend a trusted brand name. One last thing the guy at the scooter store i went said replace gear oil every 1200 miles. I have also read every 600 miles. I would like your input. I need this scoot to last me. I love riding the 2 strokes. I grew up riding 2 stroke dirt bikes but was never much on mechanic work. I just want to know the simple do's and don'ts. Again thanks.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

Your gear oil should be changed at 2000 mile intervals, but with the lower viscosity you have, 1200 was your service guy CYA'ing it.
Depending on what type of weather you experience, the 80/90 you have should get you by. Warmer weather= higher viscosity and colder = lower.
Try not to drive it to hard, and change it as recommended. When you do get the 140w oil, Valvoline is a good name in the oil business.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
marvin peters
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Post by marvin peters »

I appreciate the input. I got the oil changed and now i feel better about the whole situation. I'm sure I will have a bunch of new questions for the all the gurus in the near future. I am really new to scootin and internet forums. So thanks again.
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SuperCyclone.81
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Post by SuperCyclone.81 »

I work at a Genuine dealer in Arkansas, we change our customers out at the first 500 mile marker and then every 2000 after that. We use Royal Purple for all of our gear/4t motor oils. Just another option...
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

That Royal Purple is some good stuff but oh so expensive. Like the old adage says "you get what you pay for", in this case its a good thing.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
dkw12002
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Post by dkw12002 »

I do use full synthetic usually with the first oil change for crankcase oil, and I use the cheap, but also good stuff, Shell's Rotella T6...$21 a gallon at Walmart...less if it is on sale. The reason I use full synthetic is because I do a lot of hot weather riding and I know my oil gets hot.

I already have several bottles of gear oil in various weights from previous scooters and I'll use those for my Roughhouse. I have the recommended 140 wt. left over from a Vino 125 as I recall. I also have some synthetic gear oil in AGIP 75W80 from my Sportcity scooter that I may change to first for Winter though.

I too hear good things about Royal Purple, but I've never used it. Rotella T6 has the JASO MA rating recommended by most bikes as well. You know a lot of what Manufacturers and dealers recommend has to do with which oil company gives them the best deal on oil, too. Rest assured Yamaha is going to recommend a Yamalube product for example, and Honda is going to recommend their own oil....for all Honda bikes. I'm not sure there is any bad oil out there really.
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SuperCyclone.81
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Post by SuperCyclone.81 »

Ya you're probably right for the most part ^. I just put RP in my Ruckus about 200ish miles ago, so Ill change that out in about 1000 miles. I'm ready to see what it looks like compared to all the Chinese scoot's no name oils that we change.
dkw12002
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Post by dkw12002 »

I may have mentioned the Metropolitan scooter I had that I traded for the Roughhouse. Anyway, it was a 2006 and there was just one owner. I asked him about gear oil and he didn't know there was any...and for good reason. It is not mentioned in the Owner's Manual?? Anyway, I changed it after 7 years and it was definitely black and needed changing, but had done it's job. I also talked with one of the mechanics over at af1 racing a while back about gear oil and he said it is not uncommon to see scooters with 20,000 miles that have NEVER had the gear oil changed. Finally, I do follow the manufacturers recommendations in general and whenever I have changed gear oil on other scooters with just a few hundred miles on them, the oil always looks brand new. I'll still change it at 400 miles, but I expect it to look new on the Roughhouse too. I am fairly sure the gear oil does not break down as fast as engine oil in a 4-stroke. If you ever feel the transmission cover after a hard ride, it never gets too hot, even when there is lots of heat pouring off the crankcase due to very hot engine oil in the sump.

I am not sure what all goes into such an early gear oil change recommendation. The cynical side of me thinks part of it may be marketing to get you coming in early to the dealer. I feel the same way about the 500 mile valve check Honda recommends for many of its bikes. I have spoken to several older mechanics who say they have NEVER needed to adjust valves that early. The head mechanic at the Kawa dealer told me to skip the 7600 mile valve check for the same reason and check them at 15,000 for the first time. If checking valves was $25, you would just do it, but unfortunately on many bikes it costs more like $500 or more depending on how easy it is to access the valves. It requires removing lots of parts on the Ninja 300. On my Grom, it's a 10-minute job and anyone can do it. Still, that's one huge advantage of a 2-stroke....no valves.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

That 1st gear oil change on any type of bike (and its been mentioned on this site before), is to remove any residual particulate of metal shavings that may have come off the gears during initial meshing. Don't know if this holds water or not but that seems to be the general consensus.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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