Flat rear tires

[saturnphive]

After completing the latest adventure in stella maintenance, which was my first rear-flat I wanted to share some insights that most of you have already learned, but that were exciting for me to discover. Without ado, here are some of the things you'll discover on your first rear tire changing:

1: Surprise! Your tire is flat. There is no mistaking this feeling.

2: Up on the center stand, you remove the spare, and the flat rear tire without any trouble. Hey is that a drill bit in the tread? Groovy, — wow this is going so smoothly!

3: Examine the new tire - it looks good, it says "tubeless". "Awesome," you think. It says "<--Drive Steer-->" Inevitably, the previous owner/shop has set it up to "Steer".
3a: Discovery! The stella wheel can only be attached one way. If the tire is set up wrong, deal with it by ignoring the "Drive/steer" instructions and put the wheel on correctly. I havent experimented with it, but reversing the whole wheel may result in flaming death.
3b: Guy at the shop did not know what I meant by this, he says the wheel can go on either way...
3c: Nooope. No it doesnt. There's like a two inch difference in the depth of the wheel hub depending on how you flip the wheel. This is clearly going to have to go on with the tire tread going the wrong way. Decision made!

4: What the?! Why won't this damn spare fit under the damn fender!!?

5: Wow, that really just isnt going to fit is it?
5a: Later notes - it might actually, if you angle it in from the back. I may have had the center stand on a 2x4 though that time, which makes enough of a difference...where were we?

6. Lets try putting it on its side. Petcock off. Start and drain. Lay on side...CRACK! Shoot what the hell was that?! Does the kicker still work? Lift bike back up and back on center stand.
6a: Kicker is fine. But seriously, what was that loud crack? No apparent damage, a different thread says the kicker is actually designed to protect the cowl during a tire change. Is this true?

7: How about using this spare? Prop spare under rear bumper, lift bike onto spare. Buys you an extra inch or two. ... still not tall enough! (it probably would be with angling maneuver I had yet to learn.)

8: Okay, this WILL work - if you have a very strong luggage rack. Position tire leaning up against where its going to go, then LIIIIIIFT the whole damn bike OVER the tire and into position.
8a: For extra credit, DROP the raw hub onto the ground during this maneuver. The bike wants to fall forward and if you bump it or lose your footing, it will! Lift it back on the stand and give it a wiggle to "make sure its okay."
8b: Note wiggle. Ask, "Was that wiggle there before?" (no)
8c: Keep going. Decision made!

9: Screw down the lug nuts, put the cowl back on, put away tools, drive away. Note feeling of vertigo and instability from rear wheel. Questions to ask yourself: "Are my lugs not tight enough?" "Is the spare too low on air?" "Did dropping it on the hub break lose the axle nut?" (Answer, B and C but not A)

10: take bike home and put it up on the kick again, remove the rear wheels. Replace tube and put spare back where spare belongs.

11: remove hub and split cotter pin to reveal axle nut - remove freely with bare fingers. "Hmmm."


In the end of the story, we're back out on the bike after applying locktite and a hearty helping of elbow grease to the axle nut. As well as a new split pin. I still feel a little vertiginous, but I'm hoping that's psychosomatic. Throughout it all, there's one thing that kept me from ever getting frustrated or angry: the fact that there was a spare at all. I never had to walk, and since it is so simply constructed, an hour of therapeutic garage time is all it takes to completely repair.

[az_slynch]

Protip: Remove both cowls, then remove the rear bumper. The bumper covers a notch in the bodywork that makes changing the tire much easier. If you put a 2x4 under the center stand and a jackstand under the tail of the bike, put the jackstand as close to the engine side as possible. It'll give you that extra room needed to finagle the rim and tire in and out of the body.

[jimmbomb]

Great story! I enjoyed reading it..
In agreement with AZ.... take off that plastic rear bumber and cut you a 6" inch long 2x4 to toss in the glove box.
Use it as a jack under the motor near the bottom of the shock. .
Keep telling us a bout your mis adventures!
www.modernbuddy.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... light=jack

Check this thread for pics.

.. as fast as we go... I dont pay any attention to the drive/steer arrows..
Just keep your eyes moving.
Dont txt and ride!z
Good luck

[viney266]

^^^ good advice, the jackstand I used doing my last flat on roadside allowed me to do from flat to rolling in 26 minutes. That included taking off gear and digging out tools. That stand under the shock really makes all the difference. I was really curious so I watched the time. I did have a ratchet and sockets.

Glad to see you persevered and stayed with it

[BuddyRaton]

If you don't have a stand take the engine cowl off and lean the motor on a curb. It will lift the tire enough for a swap.

I also carry a ziploc bag. That way if there is no curb I put it under the gas cap to prevent leaks, take the cowl off and lay it over.

[fisher1]

I also carry a ziploc bag. That way if there is no curb I put it under the gas cap to prevent leaks, take the cowl off and lay it over.

That's a terrific idea - thanks !

[mayhem]

When I had my first flat a couple of months ago I propped it with the spare under the bumper, then swapped the spare for the flat when it was time to use the spare. It was fiddly angling the spare up and onto the hub, but I was on my way in a half hour, including a celebratory smoke, without even mussing my white shirt. Was I glad I had a spare. In 20 years of two-wheeling this was the first flat I've ever had, and the first two-wheeler I've ever had with a spare. Coincidence?

I later read that you can use a beer can under the gearbox to prop it, but my beer can always seems to be empty.

[saturnphive]

I did the same thing, but I used the flat as the prop (though I wrote that wrong up above.) I think because it was the flat it wasn't quite tall enough. With my new technique to angle the wheel from the back I think I'd have much better luck.

I don't understand the beer can suggestion. Also, isn't that a waste of a beer?

[mayhem]

This guy's using coconut milk, but you get the idea. Probably why the can's still full.

[saturnphive]

Word.


That coconut water is good stuff for hangovers too. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea just to keep some in the glovey.

[srbbnd]

Got a rear flat the other day and I replaced it with the spare. Is there a DIY thread around this forum. I originally had Shinko tubeless SR550 3.50-10's and liked them and would like to replace both front/rear with the same. However, I am a little confused on how to replace the tubeless. Do they need tubes? Some tubeless still say you need tubes... Also is this similar to replacing bicycle tires and can be done using the same tools?

[mayhem]

You will need tires plus tubes for both, you can't use tubeless tires alone with the split rims that are standard on all vintage scooters. It's OK to use tubes inside tires that are labeled tubeless.

I recently replaced the stock wheels with tubeless wheels and tires because I've had three flat tires in the last year and I don't feel safe any more running the tube tires. I've managed to get to the side of the road safely each time, but I was pretty lucky not to have been going fast in heavy traffic.

[srbbnd]

You will need tires plus tubes for both, you can't use tubeless tires alone with the split rims that are standard on all vintage scooters. It's OK to use tubes inside tires that are labeled tubeless.

I recently replaced the stock wheels with tubeless wheels and tires because I've had three flat tires in the last year and I don't feel safe any more running the tube tires. I've managed to get to the side of the road safely each time, but I was pretty lucky not to have been going fast in heavy traffic.

Thank you very much.

[srbbnd]

What PSI would you recommend using on a tube in a tubeless tire? I was thinking maybe 35 since I usually have my girlfriend on the back, but on the tubeless tire it says 47.

I would like to go tubeless in the future, what are the best rims to get for the Stella to do this? Lastly, would it be possible to keep a spare tubeless, would it fit in the space provided?

[mayhem]

I would use the same pressure as for a tube-type tire, everyone seems to have their own preference. I run 35 rear, ~20 front. The pressure on the sidewall is the maximum, not recommended.

I bought the SIP tubeless wheels because they were the only ones I could find at the time. They are alloy and very good quality, but pricy with shipping. They are also only available in the slightly wider 2.50" width, which produces a slight mis-alignment, causing the brakes to pull slightly to the right, nothing that your brain can't compensate for after three offour stops.

ScootRS has a steel wheel for $50 that gets good reviews.

[fisher1]

I doubt if this is a safe way to mount/bead a tubeless tire or not but people do it - probably would simply explode a scoot tire.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GmMsBSbFq-g

[Dooglas]

What PSI would you recommend using on a tube in a tubeless tire? I was thinking maybe 35 since I usually have my girlfriend on the back, but on the tubeless tire it says 47.

Those psi numbers on tires are not the recommended inflation for best performance on your bike. That number represents the maximum pressure the tire is safely capable of holding. I would agree that 35 psi with a passenger is about the right inflation on the rear.