looking for jet kit for roughhouse

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zuki
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looking for jet kit for roughhouse

Post by zuki »

Can someone show me a link to a jet kit for a roughhouse,just bought a pipe and guess i will probably need to rejet it also. A how to video would be great also as I have never done this before.
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

Try ScooterWorks, I know they have more jets than what is shown on their web page. You may have to call them though.

Jets

Or you can try Jets-R-Us. These are listed for the Buddy 50, the carb is the same as the RH50. You want the Main Jet OEM section, scroll down some.

Jets

The only problem with a kit is you get what they give you. Buying within a range will allow for more flexibility. That range being 85 - 100 for most pipe upgrades. Re-jetting is a hit or miss scenario so you may have to go into the carb several times to get the right jet.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

What agrogod said...

And, I suggest you start with a fresh plug and an 88 jet then decide from there.

I don't know of a video. But I think basic steps are as follows (from memory, so you will have to take a look to be sure). And, this is detailed so it may make it look harder than it is; its not hard.

Here you go:
- Remove the pet carrier to get access to the carb, several 10mm bolts and a phillips screw.
- Unscrew the cap that holds the throttle cable at the top of the carb; carefully pull the throttle slider out and set is aside, keep it clean and scratch-free. (Maybe wrap it in a clean rag.)
- Pull the plastic cap up and off of the auto-choke. (The thing with electrical wires going to it.)
- Unscrew 2 phillips screws at the base of the auto-choke and slide the metal clip out that clamps the auto-choke in place.
- Pull the auto-choke up out of the carb, set aside.
- Loosen, but don't completely unscrew the clamp screw where the carb attaches to the air filter boot.
- Remove 2 8mm bolts that fasten the carb to the manifold on the engine side of the carb.
- The carb can now be removed by:
1. Reach from the side over the air filter, press the carb toward the air filter
2. Remove the black plastic spacer (thermal isolator) from between the carb and the manifold.
3. With the carb and air filter boot still compressed a little, pull the carb up and out.
4. You can now disconnect the fuel line, using pliers to compress/move the spring clip, and pulling the line off. A small flat screwdriver at the base of the fuel line might help to carefully break the fuel line free.
5. Try not to change the setting of the black idle adjust knob.

With the carb out, and upright, hold the float bowl drain hose over a suitable container, open the drain screw at the base of the float bowl to drain out the gas. This keeps gas from going everywhere, including all over you. Close the screw snug.

To change the jet:
- Remove 2 Philips screws attaching the float bowl to the carb body
- Remove the float bowl; be careful that the gasket doesn't get hurt. If the bowl is stubborn, a few light taps with something non-metallic should knock it loose; but don't overdo it.
- With the carb upside down, the main jet is the small hexagonal brass piece, with a small axial hole, in a larger hexagonal brass piece, prominent in the center of the carb, in the space where the float bowl was.
- Remove the existing main jet.
- Put the new jet in. Tighten snug plus a little bit, but it is brass, so don't torque on it too much.

Done.

Now, put it all back together. Some things to watch for:
- Be sure the float bowl gasket is seated in the groove in the float bowl cover.
- Snug all hardware, but don't get crazy; these are small pieces and don't need to be crushed.
- Be sure to re-attach the clip on the fuel line so it is secure.
- Put the carb inlet back into the air filter boot, then compress and put the plastic spacer back in. The o-ring on the spacer faces the manifold, away from the carb.
- Also, be sure the float bowl drain screw is closed, and the drain tube isn't stuck or kinked on anything.
- Compress the air-filter boot enough so that the plastic spacer will slide in with little or no interference. Otherwise you may damage the o-ring on the spacer or the o-ring on the carb.
- Put the 2 8mm manifold bolts back in, and then also tighten the air-filter boot screw.
- When putting the auto-choke in, be careful to take your time and align the pin, then push the choke assembly all the way in.
- The clip that clamps the auto-choke in slides in at the base of the auto-choke near flush with the carb body; align it and add the screws.
- The throttle slider only goes in one way. Look for a groove that lines up with a feature on the carb. Slide it straight in. It should go in with no force.
- When you tighten the throttle cap, be careful not to cross-thread. These parts are aluminum, so they can be damaged if not cautious.
- Check the throttle operation on the handlebar to be sure it pulls and returns smoothly.
- If you think all is well, start it up. And if you are satisfied, reinstall the pet carrier.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

Nicely done with that write-up OldGuy. :clap:
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

Thanks! I hope it helps zuki out.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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zuki
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Location: Springfield mo

Post by zuki »

OldGuy wrote:Thanks! I hope it helps zuki out.
Yes it does thanks oldguy!!
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zuki
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Post by zuki »

Also what size are the stock rollers and should I go up in weight?
lovemysan
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Post by lovemysan »

Zuki you can get jets at jetsrus.com the are just north of Springfield mo. You need keihin 7mm jets . Rollers are 16x13mm, stock weight is 7 grams. What size depends on what rpm you want and how much you weigh. I think 6 grams is good for stock bike.
161cc big bore kit, NCY big valve head Hand ported, NCY transmission kit, jetted and tuned. I can port your cylinder head.
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theemptythrone
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Post by theemptythrone »

i did 6.5 sliders.
scoots greazy v MCgilacuddy.
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ender07
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Post by ender07 »

Since the weather has been warming up, my engine has been bogging down at times and I feel like it's starting to run too rich. I am 6'2'' 235 lbs and I live in Southern WI and I have a 95 jet in there right now. I am going to get a couple jets and go down and experiment with 92-90-88 to see what works best and do some plug chops.

I was also planning on buying a NCY variator and a 1500 RPM clutch contra spring to help with acceleration and hills.

Anyone know where to get the proper size socket to fit an 1/2'' inch impact wrench? I have a whole set of sockets but none seem to work, plus the 1/2'' part doesn't fit in all of them and I would rather not have a size converter in there...
Roughhouse 50 - custom green paint job, Prima exhaust pipe, 5G rollers, 1000 RPM contra spring, 2000 RPM clutch pillow springs, 95 carb jet, UNI pod air filter, debadged, delobstered, PIAA Super Plasma performance headlight
lovemysan
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Post by lovemysan »

Ender07, I'm 250lbs and always found the overange shift around 28mph annoying. No amount of roller tuning could get around it. I'd recommend an ncy torque driver for the clutch side. There around $40. I sold my roughhouse to friend who weighs 170lbs with gear. He finds it irritating too.
161cc big bore kit, NCY big valve head Hand ported, NCY transmission kit, jetted and tuned. I can port your cylinder head.
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

I think the socket is a 14mm. I use a 12" to 3/8" adapter with no issues. If you want a 14mm 1/2" socket, sears, lowes, home depot, many auto parts stores, and other hardware stores would likely have one.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

14mm can most times be swapped out for a 9/16" socket or open end. It depends on the bolt hexing.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
Stinkdyr
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Post by Stinkdyr »

Since I put a freer flow Tecnigas exhaust on my 2009 RH50, and the temp has dropped to sub-freezing in Boston, my scoot has been bogging in mid-range....most likely a symptom of being too lean. This OEM carb will not let you adjust the throttle needle and the air-fuel mix adjuster screw head has been snapped off by somebody. So my only choice to richen the mix is to upjet. This carb comes with #35 idle jet and #82 main jet, according to the diagram. So I ordered some replacement jets from Jetsrus to see if that cures the bog. I ordered a #38 idle jet (might not use this, but I might try it for kix) and main jets: #88, 90, 95. Will report back here with results.
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OldGuy
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Post by OldGuy »

I'd suggest trying the 88 main first. Seems like a good place to start and works with a lot of RH50 pipes.

And, your mixture adjust screw may not be snapped off. It has been a while since I looked at this but I think you might be looking at a brass plug which covers the actual screw. The plug is intended to keep evil people (us) from tampering with it. And the screw itself doesn't have a screwdriver slot in it. I recall having to cut one into it.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

2009 idle set screws are not adjustable as old guy stated. You would need to swap the carb out for one that is adjustable. Scootworks does have those listed on the website.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
Stinkdyr
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Location: Boston

Post by Stinkdyr »

Thx for the feedback on the a-f mix adjustment screw. Come spring, I will try to dremel a slot into it so I can adjust it.

:twisted:
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agrogod
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Post by agrogod »

If you go that route be careful. There is a retainer cap that will have to be removed first. Don't know what it is made of but I understand it is not so easy to remove. Good luck.
"When your mouth is yapping your arms stop flapping, get to work" - a quote from my father R.I.P..
always start with the simple, it may end up costing you little to nothing
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