2006 Blur 150 - Thrashed motor need help rebuilding!!!

[Marco Moto]

Hello all,

My name is Marco, I am a new user and I just purchased my first scooter: a basket case 2006 Genuine Blur 150.

The connecting rod snapped and destroyed the cases, I want to rebuild and enhance the performance of the engine if I can afford it.
The piston and head seem to be ok.
The engine has 2400 miles.
I have a few questions for you, fellow inmates:
What is the generic engine model?
I will need lots of parts, which vendors should I use to buy the stock crank cases and which vendor for a sporty pipe/clutch/intake/carb/CDI?

Thank you!!!

[chickdr]

The engine is a generic GY6 style. That is a lot of damage. Not sure where to tell you to get parts.

[Marco Moto]

It seems all the GY6s I see on eBay have drum brake and a different shock mount...here is a better shot of the rear hub:




Cases are listed on the genuine parts fiche but they are pricey...

[Marco Moto]

...mmmh, so maybe I just answered my own question here...

I could get the cases from Genuine and the cylinder/piston kit for a generic GY6? Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks guys! I know motorcycles but scooters are new to me.

[jrsjr]

I think you might want to go peruse this thread. I'm not trying to discourage you, it's just that I can't figure out what part of that motor you plan to reuse in a rebuild. Again, maybe read that other thread and look at the pictures and compare his situation to yours before you sink and more time and energy into this project? Just a thought.

[Dooglas]

Seems to me you really want to replace the entire engine. A 2006 Blur isn't worth big money even in running condition, so we are talking about ways to do this on the cheap. If you can find a 150 Blur somewhere that has been damaged in a collision but didn't sustain engine damage, you will be money ahead by using that as an engine donor. I don't think buying rebuild parts through Genuine or PGO is going to be a cost effective proposition.

[lovemysan]

Yay, someone else to talk to about modding.

Okay, that was a casting defect in the rod the caused the failure. That is NOT a generic gy6 case. There are gy6 parts that fit, you must research them ahead of time. It looks like the intake valve may have struck the piston. I would remove it and check to see if its still true.

The piston and cylinder are generic. I like the taida kits but there are some other good kits out there. I think you can go up to 61mm with boring the case.

The head is generic. I've got a NCY head and it turned out to be pretty nice unit with dual valve springs and tuliped valves. I went with stainless valves and titanium retainers. I did have to saw off the EGR boss which is not used on genuine bikes. Most heads are this way. Whatever you get you should have it ported. There is cheap power in the porting. I would not recommend attempting this with a dremel. I think a set of generic 150cc gy6 valves will fit if yours are actually bent.

Camshaft your in luck because generic will work here as well. I've got an $24 generic a12( i had to press off the camgear because of my 125cc yours should bolt in) Or you can run the stock cam. I tried an a9 and it doesn't work with my set up the retainer was hitting the guide seal

Carburetor I'm still running a stock carb. I'm not sure how much power I'm giving up but it has no problems pulling like a madman to 9500 rpms. If you up grade the carb you'll need a bigger intake manifold as well.

Exhaust, good luck, there should be something somewhere that will work or be made to work. Lots of exhaust available over seas but not here.

Crankshaft is genuine only if you want the kickstart to work. I've had lots of starter and battery problems, my kickstart has to work. Your looking for a long spline crankshaft. They are rare in taiwan, very rare. But I did find one guy on ebay last year who said he had them. I can send you his contact info. He actually had the crank with a billet rod, 4 valve head, and top end in the size of choice for $600.00

Engine cases, hmm, the transmission side is genuine only. Look at the gear case, most gy6's have the gear access from the clutch side. You might find something that fits but IDK. I went down to the garage and compared the buddy case and its shorter. The flywheel side looks like a buddy case will work, I'm not a 100%. I could send a picture. Genuine may list separate part numbers for the same part. I've found several identical parts in their system with different numbers. You will need a starter clutch removal tool to get the crank out. I tried but didn't want to destroy the nut. I borrowed the dealers tool.

Starter, we should trade measurements but I think a buddy starter will work. The generic gy6 looks like it will work too but some of them are garbage.

Clutch and variator will interchange with gy6. The stock clutch is pretty stout, good to like 15-16hp. I tried the NCY and wore it out in about 1500 miles. It was fine. I've got the koso delta now and its fine. I could probably live without both of these. I'd like to try a dr pulley. But I really don't think they make your bike any faster. I like to wheelie so I kinda go through them.

[GregsBuddy]

That thing saw some big RPM's!

[BuddyRaton]

Marco...just curious but what was going on when that thing let go? Long WOT...long climb? I know you bought it as a basket case but wondering if you got the back story 'cause that thing sure did blow up!

[viney266]

I rebuild engines all the time, and in that case I would just look for a spare motor off a wrecked bike and do the swap. Then build that if you like. Just my two cents.
All the good parts are wrecked, even the head has a bent valve. She was spinning fast.

[Marco Moto]

Thanks guys, lots of good info!

jrsjr: and Dooglas
This is actually the same scooter. The PO donated it to me, so this far I only have $220 into it, which is what it cost me to have it shipped to my home.
I have been looking for crashed Blurs but they seem unobtainable, so I looked at ScooterLounge and summed up the cost of all the parts I will need, and to rebuild using OEM parts it will cost about $500. so, not too bad, considering...
I am planning to reuse:
Clutches;
Coil/Magneto;
Final Drive;
Head (possibly);
Carb, etc...

lovemysan
Thank you so much! that's the kind of info I need. Compatibility seems to be hit-and-miss with this one, so it's really helpful to know what fits and what doesn't. I did find a brand new OEM crankshaft for $50 shipped, so that's one thing out of the way. I thing the head is still good, just needs new valves. Cylinder and piston are junk.
I'd like to put a big bore kit but I don't want it to grenade again. I was going to get stainless hi-comp valves but seems like the rod failed so I'm kind of nervous about increasing the compression... I'd like to open up the airbox a bit, then pipe and re-jet.
I might have to PM you with some questions as I move forward with the build.

GregsBuddy Not sure... the PO let his friend borrow it and this is what he brought back - Ykes!

BuddyRaton Sure did! Seems like there was no foul play involved though, just maybe a defective con rod. Check out the original post here: topic12914.html

viney266 Yes, that's the first thing I have considered, but these scooters seem to be very rare. I check eBay almost daily for parts or a crashed scooter but there's nothing but clutch weights out there!

[babblefish]

I wish you success on your engine rebuild. I don't think the connecting rod in yours broke because of over-revving. I heard that PGO had a batch of defective cranks/rods get through around the 2005/6 time period. PGO engines are NOT generic GY6. There are some small differences/changes that PGO did that may or may not allow generic parts to be used. Some parts may need minor modifications. Buy Taiwan made parts if possible. They are generally of a higher quality than those made in China, though if you're careful, China does make some good parts. Use OEM gaskets as there are enough differences where generic gasket sets may not work.

The crank in my 2006 Blur also gave up, but not quite as spectacularly as yours. The big end bearing of the connecting rod on mine disintegrated and locked up the engine. There were plenty of warning signs, well, noises (loud knocking), before it finally gave up, but I didn't know at the time what the problem was. No broken case on mine, luckily. Unfortunately, it sent metal particles throughout the engine which scarred the piston/barrel and oil pump. Also, there were metal particles in the oil cooler and oil cooler lines. Oh well, that's ok since I wanted to hotrod my engine anyway.

I started to rebuild my engine several years ago and even started a rebuild thread here on MB, but quit after I bungled boring out the crankcase for a 61mm big bore kit. I accidentally cut into a oil supply port in the case (that little hole near the cylinder barrel opening), got frustrated and gave up. Until recently.

I managed to repair my earlier faux pas by aluminum welding the port closed then redrilling the oil port. I may have to resurrect my old thread, if it's still there to show the rest of the rebuild...that is if it's successful. Still working out some bugs at the moment. In the meantime, here are some notes on things I've run across, things I've done, and some parts used so far:

Crankcase: Bored out cylinder opening to accept a 61mm cylinder and I've cleaned and opened up some of the oil passages to improve oil flow.

Crank: 62mm stroke (stock is 58.6mm). The stock crank uses a longer spline on one end for the kick starter when compared to your regular "standard" GY6 engine. The one I bought (from Taiwan) does not have this longer end, but I was able to make modifications to the kick starter mechanism to allow use of the kick starter anyway.

Using a longer stroke usually means the need to use a spacer plate between the cylinder barrel and the crankcase with a thickness that is half of the stroke increase (2mm thick spacer for a 4mm stroke increase), but for the moment, I'm only using two gaskets. This puts the top of the piston at about the same height as the cylinder when at top-dead-center.

Piston/Barrel: 61mm big bore. Stock is 57.5mm. The replacement cylinder does not have provision for the stock EGR emissions parts, so I am leaving them out. The case has to be bored out to accept this cylinder and the resulting opening comes VERY close to the cylinder studs and oil supply port.

The biggest cylinder that can be used WITHOUT boring the case is 59mm. The biggest cylinder that can be used WITH boring out the case is 63mm, but this means the cylinder wall is going to be very thin. Not the best for longevity.

Head: Made by Ruima (Taiwan) and has bigger ports and double (inner/outer) valve springs, but stock sized valves. I did some port work to it making them a bit bigger, but mainly smoothing them out and removing small restrictions to improve flow. This head also has provision for EGR, but none of the gas ports have been drilled out. I trimmed off the aluminum where the EGR parts would have mated.

Valve Cover: Yes, a different valve cover had to be used because the stock one didn't fit the new head. The new cover had provision for EGR, but I removed these pieces and cut off the mounting ears cast into the cover.

Oil Pump: A high flow unit that gives about 20% more flow. The impeller blade is bigger in this pump.

Cam: Using an A12 cam. Suppose to give more mid-range to top-end power.

Cam Chain: Using the stock chain for now, but may have to go with a longer one to compensate for the longer stroke. Still working this one out. I can put the engine together with the stock chain length, but the chain tension is pretty high even without the chain tensioner or spacer plate in place.

Gaskets: All of the crankcase gaskets on PGO engines is slightly different than your standard GY6 which means most of the generic gasket sets won't work. I haven't tried them all, of course, so your mileage may vary. I bought mostly OEM gaskets for my build.

Intake Manifold: Using a NCY part which has a bigger ID. This manifold also has provision for a vacuum port for the fuel petcock.

Carburetor: OKO CVK 30mm. Stock is 24mm. I bought a few main jets of varying sizes just in case I need to do a bit of tuning.

Air Filter: A double foam unit made by UNI

Plastic Cooling Shrouds: These are the plastic pieces that surround the cylinder and head to direct the cooling air around said parts. Had to do a bit of trimming to allow them to fit around the new head.

Cooling Fan: I bought a larger fan that is suppose to move more air, but it won't fit under the stock fan cover. Apparently, PGO uses covers/shrouds that are different from "standard" GY6 parts. I ordered a "standard" cover to allow use of the larger fan, but I may have to replace the other shrouds too as the mounting holes appear to be different.

Why am I so concerned about the cooling fan? Well, the stock fan is quite a bit smaller than the new fan and the air intake opening of the stock cover is also quite a bit smaller than a "standard" cover. The stock Blur engine runs really hot even with a oil cooler as standard (generic GY6 engines do not have an oil cooler as standard), I want as much cooling as possible especially with a hotrodded engine. I may have to go with an additional oil cooler once I get a chance to check engine temperature.

Update (6/5/15): Generic fan covers/shrouds won't work with PGO engines. The shape of the PGO engine case is different from generic GY6 engines.

Exhaust System: Haven't found one made specifically for the Blur yet. I will probably have to get a generic one and modify it. Currently looking at one sold by Scrappydogscooters called "Bintelli Havoc", but the pipe passes underneath the cooling fan cover vs over it as in stock form. Not sure if the center stand will get in the way. I want a "slip-on" style muffler mount so I can experiment if needed. I don't want anything too loud. Too loud gets on my nerves and probably my neighbors also.

So that's it so far. Once I get to the point of actually starting the engine and getting it running right, I'll post pictures and results. The red line should be higher with the ported head, stiffer valve springs, cam, and bigger carb, but if the top speed is still not in the 70ish range, I'll look into changing the gear ratio in the transmission.

Oh, btw, the new displacement of my engine will be 180cc. It is possible to build up to a 206cc engine (63mm bore, 66mm stroke) using our stock crankcase, but longevity may be an issue. The 63mm cylinder barrel will have a very thin cylinder wall and the crank will have a very small big end bearing on the connecting rod. And of course, heat will be an issue, too.

Last notes: a larger bore makes a bigger difference in engine displacement than a longer stroke, but a longer stroke gives more torque.

A note to Marco Moto: replace the original oil pump and flush out the oil cooler and it's lines! You don't want any remaining metal particles getting into your newly built engine and the oil pump is probably damaged too.

Also, unless I'm mistaken (anyone jump in), the 150cc Buddy uses the same engine as the Blur, so if you can find a crashed Buddy 150...

Feel free to ask any questions.

[jrsjr]

Welcome back Babblefish after a (what?) 4 year absence! Hope all is well with you. Thanks for the knowledgeable post.

[babblefish]

Welcome back Babblefish after a (what?) 4 year absence! Hope all is well with you. Thanks for the knowledgeable post.

Thanks for the welcome back! Yes, it has been a long time. My business (long since failed) kept me away from fun things for a long time. Unfortunately, the two cats in my avatar have also gone to the big scratching post in the sky too.

I'll try to finish what I started though.

[jrsjr]

Thanks for the welcome back! Yes, it has been a long time. My business (long since failed) kept me away from fun things for a long time. Unfortunately, the two cats in my avatar have also gone to the big scratching post in the sky too.

Sorry to hear about the business. Sorry to hear about the cats, too. I saw your avatar and didn't have the heart to ask... Well, here's to better days ahead, maybe even on a running Blur 150!

[Marco Moto]

I wish you success on your engine rebuild. I don't think the connecting rod in yours broke because of over-revving. I heard that PGO had a batch of defective cranks/rods get through around the 2005/6 time period. PGO engines are NOT generic GY6. There are some small differences/changes that PGO did that may or may not allow generic parts to be used. Some parts may need minor modifications. Buy Taiwan made parts if possible. They are generally of a higher quality than those made in China, though if you're careful, China does make some good parts. Use OEM gaskets as there are enough differences where generic gasket sets may not work.
.....................................................
In the meantime, here are some notes on things I've run across, things I've done, and some parts used so far:
..........................................................

Also, unless I'm mistaken (anyone jump in), the 150cc Buddy uses the same engine as the Blur, so if you can find a crashed Buddy 150...

Feel free to ask any questions.

Hi Babblefish! Wow, thank you so much for this post! I do wish I had it a couple of months ago, but either way, my scooter is now rebuilt and running great, and your post confirms many of my findings throughout this journey.
The below post is the story of my rebuild (cross-posted from ADVRider.com - Battelscooters), please feel free to chime in!

P.S.: the Blur and Buddy have different cases: the Blur has a larger rear wheel and disc brake while the Buddy has smaller wheels and drum brakes .

[Marco Moto]

It has been a while since the last update, life gets in the way along with 1000 other projects.
My boy has graduated High School and started working while waiting to leave for the Navy, so in the end I worked on this whole project by myself, it has been a learning and very interesting experience.
As I imagined, the part sourcing was the hardest. I ended up buying most of the parts from Scooter Lounge Online and some generic ones from eBay. The OEM parts from SLO are pretty expensive considering how much the scooter is actually worth and they also take about three weeks to arrive, so waiting for parts has been tough as well.
Here is what happened in the last couple of months:

Ok, so, I started with this pile of parts:








Rebuilt the final drive with new OEM bearings, gasket and seals:






...then moved to the front and installed the timing chain and crankshaft:






The GY6 gasket is slightly different, so I had to order an OEM gasket:



I then realized that the piston pin hole in the rod was way smaller than the oem, bummer! This was labeled "Genuine Blur 150", and it was OEM but I'm afraid it was mislabeled and it's the 50cc version:



The two different crankshafts: the clutch side is different as well as the rod:



...so I ended up ordering a new OEM crankshaft. Looks like the rod is heat-treated, the old one was the same way








The stator bolts stripped right away, thankfully I have a 6mm time-sert set, the best money I have ever spent!




I used the Chinese piston that came with the HP kit, it's the same size as the OEM:




I feel like the Chinese head is very well made, at least at par with the rest of the scooter:






I used the Chinese cylinder that came with the kit as well:




I used the camshaft that came with the kit, seems well made, the lobes are much more round than the oem:






The rockers and holder are the oem:



I matched the intake spacer to the head:




The oem starter was $200!!! I bought a $25 Chinese repro and it didn't fit, I ended up buying a $70 from Taiwan (oem manufacturer but sold through eBay thank goodness) and it fit perfectly.




The oem chain tensioner fit perfectly with the Chinese gasket




variator and clutch back in:




Time to get kinky!




The engine is back in at last!




It was tricky to sort out this hose maze, I also eliminated the AIAC system:






I changed the oil filter ( this scooter has a sweet oil cooler/filter up front),filled up with Rotella 15w-40 heavy duty diesel oil, weird but that's what it calls for.
The final drive takes 140w gear oil.
I installed a new battery and then took some time to fill up the booster gas tank, but once it was filled the scooter started right up! The exhaust gasket was junk and leaked, so I replaced it with a flange type, hand-filed the exhaust flange to flatten it and there are no leaks!

The scooter is running great! I am currently breaking it in but I love riding this thing, it's very smooth and capable.

As it sits today:


Cheers!
-Marco.

[babblefish]

Job well done Marco, especially considering what you started out with. Looks like you have a really nice workshop area, too. My garage is packed with junk including a dead Porsche with it's guts scattered everywhere, lol. My next project....
Sounds like the first crank you bought was for a 125cc engine: 13mm wrist pin vs 15mm.
Did you buy a new crankcase to build your engine? If so, this was a pretty expensive rebuild. Any hop-up parts used? After riding your Blur for awhile, if you find the front suspension a bit on the soft side (as i did), do the mod i mentioned in my thread. It makes a big difference in the handling.

The GY6 engine is a pretty simple lump and I had a blast working on mine. Now I'm considering a GY6-200 (161QMK) engine which can be taken out to 234cc. Not sure if I'll work in a Blur though.

[Marco Moto]

Hi BabbleFish!

Sorry for the late reply, after i sold the scooter I haven't been checking in here.

Thanks for the kind words, yes I built my own little shop, all insulated so I am able to work in the harsh Michigan winters, I love it!

Yes, I did have to buy a new OEM crankcase, crankshaft, gaskets, oil seals and two final drive bearings (I changed them just in case). I then bought a chinese hi-performance cylinder/piston kit completed with camshaft, oil pump, head and gaskets from eBay.

Total in parts, with all of the odds and ends hovered around $800, so considering how much the scooter is worth, it's probably not a feasible repair unless, like me, you get the scooter for almost free and you do the work yourself.

Yes, the front forks are a little sloppy, the rear shock has almost no dampening, but the Blur is still a joy to ride. I sold mine, I don't regret it ( Son moved away, and I had to recoup the money for the expensive parts), but it was nice to have a vehicle that you can just start up and ride to the store.

I live in a rural area, so the Blur 150 wasn't really fast enough for the open roads, had I lived in the city I would have kept it until the end of its days. It's a really well designed machine and it's super fun to ride, too bad the US market is terrible for anything that is not a Vespa.

[BrendaEM]

Marco Moto, this is a great thread. On this page we see such graphic engine violence, followed with a demonstration of great mechanical aptitude, perseverance, and a favorable outcome in the form of a running scooter.

Thanks.

Checking the oil? : )

[Marco Moto]

Marco Moto, this is a great thread. On this page we see such graphic engine violence, followed with a demonstration of great mechanical aptitude, perseverance, and a favorable outcome in the form of a running scooter.

Thanks.

Checking the oil? : )

Thank you very much!

I sold the scooter last year, lol I hope that the new owner is checking the oil!