Buddy 150 weak start & stall on throttle

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satyr2k2
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Buddy 150 weak start & stall on throttle

Post by satyr2k2 »

I've got a 2008 150 CC buddy that seemed to be running well only a few weeks ago. (I rode it around the block a few times to no ill effect)

However, I went to jump on the other day and suddenly it won't start, or if it does turn over, it's a very very weak idle and any throttle at all stalls the engine.

So far I've...

- Checked the airbox for blockage
- Put clean gas in the tank
- Ran some Sea-Foam through the tank
- Adjusted the idle screw
- Adjusted the mixture screw

Nothing makes a bit of difference. I'm considering tearing the carb. apart but would rather not if there is a simpler solution I'm not thinking of. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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thatvwbusguy
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Post by thatvwbusguy »

You could hope for the best and try changing your fuel filter, but it sounds like it might be time to clean the carb out. Also, when is the last time you checked your valves?
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Jay Brown
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avescoots1134
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Post by avescoots1134 »

I've seen dirty pilot jets after only a few days of sitting. Clean it!
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satyr2k2
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Post by satyr2k2 »

Also, when is the last time you checked your valves?
I've never done this :/ Is this the best guide to follow for that?
topic8312.html
I've seen dirty pilot jets after only a few days of sitting. Clean it!
Can you point me to a good pictorial guide on MB for carb cleaning? Thanks!
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thatvwbusguy
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Post by thatvwbusguy »

Check out youtube for videos on valve adjustment and carb cleaning for a GY6 150.

As I recall, this video is pretty good for the valve adjustment procedure https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vl1mrTVCQ0

Since the Buddy motor is more or less a slightly modified GY6, the only difference will be that the valve clearances for the Buddy should be 0.08mm for both intake and exhaust (check the Buddy 150 service manual to confirm this spec, as I am going from memory).

All you need is a few hand tools (8mm socket, metric wrenches) and a set of feeler gauges to do the valves.

Most 125-150cc scooter carbs come apart pretty much the same way. Watch a few videos to get the basic idea and make sure that you have a nice clean place to work. You will need a can of carburetor cleaning spray to spray through the jets and all of the openings and a few basic hand tools (screwdrivers, metric wrench set) to do the job.

If you run into any snags, let us know and we should be able to help.
If you want others to be happy, practice compassion. If you want to be happy, practice compassion.


Jay Brown
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satyr2k2
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Post by satyr2k2 »

Just to give everyone an update...

I managed to adjust BOTH the valves and clean the carburetor. Gino is back and running- not sure which of these did it, or if it was the combination but, /shrug it works.

I will say- I did ONLY adjust the exhaust valve and by a very small amount. The carburetor had no apparent blockages.

Also, can I say that getting the cover off of the valves is damned near impossible. The frame gets RIGHT in the way. Does anybody have any tricks for getting it off of there or is it just a 'wiggle it until it comes out' kind of thing?
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lovemysan
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Post by lovemysan »

satyr2k2 wrote:Just to give everyone an update...

I managed to adjust BOTH the valves and clean the carburetor. Gino is back and running- not sure which of these did it, or if it was the combination but, /shrug it works.

I will say- I did ONLY adjust the exhaust valve and by a very small amount. The carburetor had no apparent blockages.

Also, can I say that getting the cover off of the valves is damned near impossible. The frame gets RIGHT in the way. Does anybody have any tricks for getting it off of there or is it just a 'wiggle it until it comes out' kind of thing?
The trick is to take the bike off the stand. Apply weight to the rear wheel and it will give you the clearance you need.
161cc big bore kit, NCY big valve head Hand ported, NCY transmission kit, jetted and tuned. I can port your cylinder head.
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