Stalling

Drum Pro · Post by **Drum Pro** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:17 pm

It seems that every time I go into 1st I stall. any opinions as to the cause? I'm starting to have a love/hate relationship with the Stella.....

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:29 pm

I'd guess that your clutch cable could use an adjustment. How far do you have to pull the lever in to gearchange?

Drum Pro · Post by **Drum Pro** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:41 pm

az_slynch wrote:I'd guess that your clutch cable could use an adjustment. How far do you have to pull the lever in to gearchange?

I just adjusted the clutch and the gear cables.... I wish I knew how to do more but I'm stumped....

avescoots1134 · Post by **avescoots1134** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:47 pm

If you leave the fuel on and flood the engine, gas can get into the crankcase and hurt the clutch discs. The clutch becomes very grabby when this happens.

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 8:59 pm

Drum Pro wrote:
az_slynch wrote:I'd guess that your clutch cable could use an adjustment. How far do you have to pull the lever in to gearchange?
I just adjusted the clutch and the gear cables.... I wish I knew how to do more but I'm stumped....

If you've already adjusted the cable, the issue could be the clutch itself. I've had a similar problem with a Vespa clutch before. Three things in the clutch assembly can cause this:

1. The bronze spacer washer between the drive plate and the pressure plate has completely worn out and the drive plate is now rubbing against the crankshaft assembly.

2) The bronze bushing that press-fits on the pressure plate has worn out or cracked and has shifted so that it's rubbing against the crankshaft assembly or is causing the drive plate and pressure plate to bind up. The drive plate rides on this bushing, which allows it to remain stationary while the pressure plate and clutch basket rotate with the crankshaft.

3) The clutch actuator arm in the clutch cover snapped. It appears to be a 4T Stella specific problem. It's been reported enough that I bought the DRT heavy-duty arms for the actuator. I may have a spare if you need one.

ArgonV · Post by **ArgonV** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 9:32 pm

Speaking of which, how far in does one need to pull the handle to safely change gears?

Drum Pro · Post by **Drum Pro** » Mon Jan 04, 2016 10:04 pm

az_slynch wrote:
Drum Pro wrote:
az_slynch wrote:I'd guess that your clutch cable could use an adjustment. How far do you have to pull the lever in to gearchange?
I just adjusted the clutch and the gear cables.... I wish I knew how to do more but I'm stumped....
If you've already adjusted the cable, the issue could be the clutch itself. I've had a similar problem with a Vespa clutch before. Three things in the clutch assembly can cause this:

1. The bronze spacer washer between the drive plate and the pressure plate has completely worn out and the drive plate is now rubbing against the crankshaft assembly.

2) The bronze bushing that press-fits on the pressure plate has worn out or cracked and has shifted so that it's rubbing against the crankshaft assembly or is causing the drive plate and pressure plate to bind up. The drive plate rides on this bushing, which allows it to remain stationary while the pressure plate and clutch basket rotate with the crankshaft.

3) The clutch actuator arm in the clutch cover snapped. It appears to be a 4T Stella specific problem. It's been reported enough that I bought the DRT heavy-duty arms for the actuator. I may have a spare if you need one.

Thanks but I wouldn't know how to fix something like that. I'm just gonna take it to a shop....

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Tue Jan 05, 2016 2:05 am

maybe your idle is too low.. I remember my 2010 4t well about pulling in the clutch at stop lights.. in neutral... idles fine.. pull in the clutch and the engine would slow down. even without putting in gear..
Just pulling in the clutch at a dead stop made the rpms go down.. slowly but surely and if it had the time, drop enough to die.
It did this all the time.
I made the habit of coming up to the light... downshifting to second.. then roll into neutral without the clutch while the bike was still rolling.
and when the light turned green.. rev the throttle a bit.. pulll in the clutch and pop into 1st gear and take off....
Who likes to sit thru a cycle of red//green/ yellow lights at a dead stop while holding your clutch lever in?? not me.
Then I increased the idle a bit but still stuck to my new routine about red lights..

good luck...
see if your rpms go down slowely as you sit dead stop with the clutch pulled in and NOT in gear..
maybe mine was a fluke.

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Tue Jan 05, 2016 7:16 pm

jimmbomb wrote:maybe your idle is too low...

Good point, Jim. I overshot and assumed that he couldn't get into gear due to the clutch not working at all. I do hope it's the simpler solution.

Mine does (did) drop in RPM a little with the shift into first gear, but it never stalled out. I did pick up the SIP roller style pressure plate for mine to reduce drag when the clutch is engaged.

Drum Pro · Post by **Drum Pro** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 1:14 am

Thanks guys! It was #3. Well done to the shop guys in Costa Mesa. Fixed it with the quickness.. Too bad it's piss'n down rain at the moment and I won't be able to get to the shop to pick it up by closing time....

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Wed Jan 20, 2016 4:02 pm

Drum Pro wrote:Thanks guys! It was #3. Well done to the shop guys in Costa Mesa. Fixed it with the quickness.. Too bad it's piss'n down rain at the moment and I won't be able to get to the shop to pick it up by closing time....

Same thing happened to my 2010 4 stroke..

talked about it here

Good deal you got it fixed

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Fri Jan 22, 2016 5:35 am

Glad you were able to get your scoot sorted. Still not sure why this is an issue for the 4T and not the 2T; it's essentially the same part.

1500!