Deadlight Mod (removal of stock socket)

[alexpa]

I brought my Buddy out of the cold (and into the dining room) and since I won't be riding anytime soon, it's time for some mods!

MicBergsma posted a pretty cool switchback dead light mod https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tJwDIZ_VRmQ and I wanted to do something similar. Most deadlight mods here use the same color LED for DRL/turn signal but I really want white/orange instead.

Does anyone have any experience removing the stock bayonet connector from the back of the deadlights? I took the housing out and the socket looks to be press fit but it might be glued. Ultimately I want to install a 1157 2-conductor socket in its place. I'll need to remove the old connector but do not want to crack the plastic (destruction of the old connector is fine).

Thanks!

[alexpa]

Hey guys- So I asked this question about a month ago but it seems like no one has done it or had any experience doing this judging by the lack of replies. I had some time recently to work on the scoot and was able to come up with my own solution so I wanted to document it and share.

The goal: Audi style switchback LEDs in the deadlights. These are to run as DRLs normally then when the turn signal is turned on, to turn off the white light, flash the orange, and then go back to DRL after a brief pause.

The process:

1. Remove lenses and deadlights from body. This was not trival. You need to remove the front cowl to access the screw holding the deadlight housing behind the fixture. You might be able to use a close quarters screwdriver to do this. In my case, I was going to paint the scoot so I removed the screw after removing the front inner leg shield. Here is what it looks like with the front cowl and inner leg shield removed. The screws are pretty difficult to gain access to. Picture 1
2. Remove the bulb and use a hacksaw or dremmel to cut off the plastic socket holder flat to the back of the reflector housing. You can somewhat see it in Picture 2
3. If you can find 15mm pipe to hold the new 1157 bayonet connector, use it. I couldn't source it locally so I used 1/2" PVC. Since this is only approx 12.25mm, I cut a slit in the side, expanded the pipe with a screwdriver, and slid the 1157 connector in. After making sure the bulb side of the connector was flush with the PVC, I used baking soda and super glue to affix the PVC/bayonet piece to the reflector housing. You can see the slit in Picture 2.
4. Cut the wires off the old bayonet housing and solder them to the new connectors so you can use the stock scooter harness connectors. In my connectors, I had to drill a hole for the ground as this socket is probably supposed to go in a metal housing. There is a specific orientation for the DRL/turn signal bulb -- I didn't document this so you might need to do this via trial and error. Here is the finished housings and wires. Picture 3
5. The DRL connections were terminated with a spade connector. Use shielded if you have it. I just covered mine in electrical tape. Picture 4
6. I attempted to dissolve the bayonet connector in acid prior to the above process. That didn't work unfortunately so I had to spray paint the inside of the reflector as the acid removed the metallic coating. You really can't tell when it's all put back together. In Picture 5, you can see the two pin connector. Picture 5
7. Finally, install the reflectors back into the scooter. I tapped the wiring harness's ORANGE wire and ran a wire down to the spade connector for the DRL. This is the main switched power line which goes throughout the bike and I was able to find an easy to tap spot in the handle bar covers. (not pictured)

Notes:

• You will need to replace the stock flasher relay with an LED capable model. I used an eBay $5 special and it works fine.
• The DRLs go on with ignition. If you want them to go on with the headlight, you'll need to tap a different wire.
• Removing the reflector housings was a huge pain in the ass
• If I did this over again, I would definitely explore trying to reuse the existing bayonet connector. The inner positive connector would have to be replaced with a 2-pin connector and the light bulb itself would need to have one of the pins filed off. Only time will tell how solid this PVC/ABS/NaHCO3/CA bond will hold.

Video of the lights in action on YouTube
Album on imgur

[cummingsjc]

Thanks for sharing your project. Any possibility of posting a video of the new lights in action?

[alexpa]

Thanks for sharing your project. Any possibility of posting a video of the new lights in action?

Yup, check the bottom of my post or this link https://youtu.be/0qILOaMoevs

[cummingsjc]

Thanks for sharing your project. Any possibility of posting a video of the new lights in action?

Yup, check the bottom of my post or this link https://youtu.be/0qILOaMoevs

My bad...I guess I should learn to read your complete post. I got used to stuff down at the bottom of people's posts being signature block stuff and must have assumed this was the case with your post.

[MYSCTR]

That is most awesome! Looks really good! We like the dual purpose lights especially since you removed the DOT added lights up top. Much cleaner looking.

[alexpa]

That is most awesome! Looks really good! We like the dual purpose lights especially since you removed the DOT added lights up top. Much cleaner looking.

Thanks! I wish I documented more of the build process but I didn't really have a plan so I just made it up as i went.

[YaBoySL]

That's amazing!

[rottekatz]

Thank you for sharing. My wife has ordered a Buddy 125 and I was thinking of the same mod as you and replacing the 1156 socket with the 1157 socket so that I could use this bulb. GLL 1157 BAY15D 5730 20 SMD Amber/White Switchback Turn Signal LED Light Bulbs 3.8W 12V LED Super Bright 600.

I was thinking of using a Y splitter for the turn signals and keeping the DOT signals. My thought is that you can't have too many lights.