Hooligan engine block

Camperdog · Post by **Camperdog** » Mon Jul 25, 2016 3:06 am

Wondering if.

In my reading I came across some info on the web that the lower end of the Hooligan is the Blur And the 170cc jug is from the buddy.

Does any one know if this is true? Now for the " wondering " .
What if you could bolt the 220 Blur jug on a stock Hooligan?

Or. Could you swap out the whole Blur 220 unit???

Inquiring minds want to know???

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Mon Jul 25, 2016 4:19 am

The 150 Blur and Hooligan use the "A" block GY6 crankcase and the Blur 220 uses the "B" crankcase. The main difference between the two is the cylinder studs in the B block are spaced further apart allowing for a larger diameter bore. The biggest displacement allowed for this crankcase (AFAIK) is 232cc. The biggest an A case can be taken (with appropriate stroker crank) is a little over 200cc. But, an A case punched out to max displacement may have a short life due to very thin cylinder walls and smallish connecting rod main bearing.

Another important difference is that the B block also has provision for an external oil cooler (just like the 150cc Blur).

As far as putting a Blur 220 engine in a Hooligan, the engine/frame mounting points should be the same, and the main dimensions for the crankcase should be very close if not the same, but you'd have to figure out the rear suspension because the Blur uses a multilink setup with a single shock in front of the rear wheel whereas the Hooligan uses twin rear shocks.

If you want more info regarding the A and B cases, look for a video on YouTube titled "GY6 A and B case explained" by Daniel Martin.

Camperdog · Post by **Camperdog** » Tue Jul 26, 2016 4:51 pm

Definitely not interested in a short life. Would like to know the options to get to 200cc.

Deleting the mono shock might be the easyist part. I look at the bracket made for the lower shock mounts now on the Hooligan. Just fab up some mounts using existing bolts to attach to. It's the adapting the two electrical harnesses is an area I have no experience in yet. But since the blur is FI also it might be much similar and under ideal conditions even plug and play but that seems only a dream.

Need to do some more research.

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:29 am

I need to make a correction. I've been looking at B cases for my own use and discovered that not all of them have provision for an external oil cooler. I was looking at a B case on eBay that was only US$135.00 for a bare case (very inexpensive), but it did not have any oil cooler ports. I suppose it would be possible to modify the case to add the needed ports though.

I think the biggest displacement you're going to get while using an A case and keeping some reliability is around 193cc. This can be accomplished with a 62mm bore and 64mm stroke (a +6 crank). I'm looking at going to a 63mm bore for my scoot and seeing how that works out. The cylinder wall thickness is going to be very thin, so if it blows up in my face, I'll just go with a 62mm. And if that blows up, I'll go back to the 61mm which I am currently running. With the 62mm crank I'm currently running, a 63mm bore will get me 193cc (vs the current 181cc). A 4V head with oversized valves is also in the plans. Playing around with these simple GY6 engines is pretty cheap and easy compared to hot rodding car engines.

Edit: Dang, looks like there are different B cases too. Some have a 54mm stud spacing (same as an A case) which limits the bore size to 63mm, while some have 57mm stud spacing which allows for a much bigger bore in order to get to 232cc displacement. Hohum, guess I'll just stick to the stock PGO case and see how far I can take it.

lovemysan · Post by **lovemysan** » Wed Aug 03, 2016 3:48 pm

babblefish wrote:I need to make a correction. I've been looking at B cases for my own use and discovered that not all of them have provision for an external oil cooler. I was looking at a B case on eBay that was only US$135.00 for a bare case (very inexpensive), but it did not have any oil cooler ports. I suppose it would be possible to modify the case to add the needed ports though.

I think the biggest displacement you're going to get while using an A case and keeping some reliability is around 193cc. This can be accomplished with a 62mm bore and 64mm stroke (a +6 crank). I'm looking at going to a 63mm bore for my scoot and seeing how that works out. The cylinder wall thickness is going to be very thin, so if it blows up in my face, I'll just go with a 62mm. And if that blows up, I'll go back to the 61mm which I am currently running. With the 62mm crank I'm currently running, a 63mm bore will get me 193cc (vs the current 181cc). A 4V head with oversized valves is also in the plans. Playing around with these simple GY6 engines is pretty cheap and easy compared to hot rodding car engines.

Edit: Dang, looks like there are different B cases too. Some have a 54mm stud spacing (same as an A case) which limits the bore size to 63mm, while some have 57mm stud spacing which allows for a much bigger bore in order to get to 232cc displacement. Hohum, guess I'll just stick to the stock PGO case and see how far I can take it.

I've been toying with building a 191cc

Taida 61.3mm crank and a 63mm bore. Nice and undersquare.
61.3x62mm would be 185cc.
Or.....206cc

Taida 66mm crank and a 63mm bore. You will lose the kick start and who knows if the electric start will work.

Or skip the PGO cases and 232cc..........I truly hate the chinese GY6 kick start. The direct drive of the PGO is the best I've used in a scooter.

I have almost all the parts to build a 57mm cased 232 4 valve. I'm planning to swap over to this. I may sell off these parts and go back to down to a 191cc just because of the expense. Currently I've spent about $1600 and I'm not done yet. I'm also not sure how streetable the 232 will be and I'm concerned I'll need another scoot just to make the store run.

Babblefish what crank +6 crank are you looking at?

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Thu Aug 04, 2016 12:57 pm

lovemysan wrote: I've been toying with building a 191cc

Taida 61.3mm crank and a 63mm bore. Nice and undersquare.
61.3x62mm would be 185cc.
Or.....206cc

Taida 66mm crank and a 63mm bore. You will lose the kick start and who knows if the electric start will work.

Or skip the PGO cases and 232cc..........I truly hate the chinese GY6 kick start. The direct drive of the PGO is the best I've used in a scooter.

I have almost all the parts to build a 57mm cased 232 4 valve. I'm planning to swap over to this. I may sell off these parts and go back to down to a 191cc just because of the expense. Currently I've spent about $1600 and I'm not done yet. I'm also not sure how streetable the 232 will be and I'm concerned I'll need another scoot just to make the store run.

Babblefish what crank +6 crank are you looking at?

A 232, 4V engine would be awesome, though expensive. Should make close to 30 hp at the crank. It's something I've wanted to do, but because of the expense and not knowing if my stock suspension and rear disc brake would mate up with it keeps me from attempting the conversion. Should sound awesome, too. Too bad I don't know anyone in my area that has a B block for me to get measurements off of. Thinking about it, it might be cheaper and easier to find an engine from a wrecked Blur 220i and use that as a basis for a build.

The +6 crank was on eBay and included a 62mm BB along with studs and other misc parts. The final displacement for this setup is 193cc. The price was great at US $255, but it's no longer up on eBay. Apparently the auction/Buy it Now ended with no takers. You might be able to pull the ad up by entering the auction number 191912917863. The sellers name is Gy6racingteam and they're out of Puerto Rico. I've ordered from them before and am very happy with the quality of their stuff.

They currently have a +6 crank kit with a 63mm BB and big valve head for US $400 (itm. no. 172284723543). The displacement for this one is 199.5cc. But, I still would be concerned about the thin cylinder walls with a 63mm BB. They do offer a 63mm BB with, so they claim, a thicker wall. Not sure how that could be done using 54mm stud spacing though.

They also have +8 cranks available, if you're so inclined. Anyway, do check out their eBay store because they offer some pretty interesting stuff for GY6. And by the way, I have no affiliation with them, I just like their stuff.

Kickstarter: please read my postings in the Blur forums, "I seized my Blur's engine!". In it, I explained how I was able to retain the kickstart function with an aftermarket crank. And even though my compression is a little bit higher than stock, the stock electric starter has been working fine. I can hear that it struggles a little bit, but it hasn't failed to start the engine, even in cold weather, or at least as cold as it ever gets around these parts. There are heavy duty starter motors available, but I'm not sure it they'll work with PGO engines. Your other alternative would be to use a lithium battery instead of AGM for their higher cranking voltage and current. I used a 3-cell LiPo battery pack once in an emergency when my stock lead acid battery died and the starter motor sounded like it was on steroids. I've never heard my engine crank over so fast, lol. If I can figure out a safe charging modification, I'll go back to using lithium. Oh, and a lithium battery weighs about 1/5th of an AGM.