Kill Switch desected

[Mr.FixIt]

The kill switch on my 2T seems to have developed a problem. When not pressed it read 500 ohms across its terminals. That is not good, it should be essentially open-circuit. The engine would half-start and then die.

I pried it apart and ground off the center terminal to take the contacts apart. The center insulating phenolic washer (smallest one) had been carbon-tracked and became conductive.

The repair is easy. I used a screw and nut and some new material to replace the center phenolic insulator.

The repaired switch has essentially infinite resistance (as it should be) until depressed.

One less problem... onto the next.

[Stanza]

Great detective work! Most folks just disconnect the kill button via the wire under the horn cover, and call it a day. Nice job actually figuring out the problem and detailing a solution.

[whereshaldo]

I just did the same dissection and repair to mine. Its an easy project but here are a couple additional notes to make it easier for someone else.

The wiring for the kill switch is soldered to the contact plate and the ground terminal at the handlebar end of the assembly. If you don't want to unsolder and resolder it together, you can cut the wires and add some bullet connectors inside the headset cover. You can also fish the whole assembly back up through the steering column, but I didn't want to disconnect the speedo cable, and there is just enough room to do all this in there while still attached. 3" pigtails off the end of the switch are enough to work with.

To remove the switch, you need to remove the screw from the center of the switch and pull it out. You'll probably also want to remove the 4 screws holding on the headset cover and just lift it up and turn it a bit.

The wiring for the kill switch is soldered to the contact plate and the ground terminal at the handlebar end of the assembly. If you don't want to unsolder and resolder it together, you can cut the wires and add some bullet connectors inside the handlebar assembly. You can also fish the whole assembly back up through the steering column, but I didn't want to disconnect the speedo cable, and there is just enough room to do all this in there. 3" pigtails off the end of the switch are enough to work with.

On the back of the switch assembly is a white plate held by 4 small flat-head screws. Remove those and then the whole switch pushes out toward the yellow button. there are two plastic tabs on the sides holding it in place. The brass contact plate will slide out the side of the switch.

The rest is pretty straightforward as described above, Grind away the contact post in the plate and replace with a screw and nut and terminal. I used a 4/40 brass screw, some plastic washers and a ring terminal that I attached the ground wire to. I also found a small rubber stepped washer that fit into the hole on the brass plate and insulated the plate from the sides of the screw.

Hal

[Mike1nw]

Impressive.

My friend's 2T kill switch works, but the engine start button does nothing. I would perform surgery on it but the TEENY PHILIPS HEAD SCREWS ARE STRIPPED.

Well, it kicks on first try.

I have a Burgman 400 and probably once a year, I have to dissect the start button. You wouldn't believe the Mickey Mouse-ness of it..... Of course, Suzook doesn't sell the switch by itself.