Stella won't keep running + starting circuit

[Mike1nw]

Friend's Stella 2T

1. I got it started. Runs great for about a minute, then dies.

I'm thinking a fuel problem. We have spark, compression, and air.

Where is the fuel filter?

2. Starter: It works when I jump it with 12v. but not with the start button. So what would be the likely suspect- start switch, or other? I have a copy of the starting diagram.

Is there a clutch switch in the circuit (do you have to hold the clutch lever in)?

[Stanza]

Does your neutral light come on when you turn the key? If not, shift through till you find neutral (roll test if nothing else). If the light still won't come up, your neutral safety switch may be at fault. It's on the right side, at the gear shift mechanism. Should be a single wire, check to make sure it's connected.

[Mike1nw]

Well. After the following, it RUNS

Took gas tank out and fiddled with gas valve several times.
Installed new fuel and oil hoses.
Took carb apart, it was clean.
I don't know what the problem was, but somewhere in the past 5 days, I did something right.

Owner doesn't want to mess with starting circuit. Unlike my Burgman 400, his Stella has a KICK START
Yes the neutral light comes on. I think it's the PRD. Which I will test someday per the manual.

On the way back to his house, the throttle cable either broke or came loose. Fortunately, the last 3 blocks were downhill.

Sure was fun riding a 4-speed for a change!

[milly]

Clutch needs to be pulled in to start

[Mike1nw]

Yup, clutch lever pulled, in neutral, key on, even held brake lever, pushed the button, no start

Will look at it when it's cooler down heah.

[phunksoulbrotha]

I've got a 4T and no experience with the 2T so take that for what it is but on my 4T, you only pull the clutch to kick-start it. Starter button doesn't work if the clutch is engaged.

[Stanza]

For the 2t, you release the clutch lever to use the kick starter (make sure it's in neutral!). To use the electric start, you squeeze the clutch lever.

It's possibly the starter motor itself, or the starter solenoid. If you're feeling brave, you could try jumping the two contacts on the starter solenoid (see above warning re:Neutral). If the starter motor doesn't try to turn it over while doing that, you can move on to testing the motor itself. Using a thick gauge wire, jump the positive battery terminal to the power pole on the starter motor. If it still won't turn over, then you have a dead starter motor. If it DOES turn over, but not while testing the solenoid, then you have a bad connection from the solenoid to the starter.

If it attempts to turn over via both the starter and the solenoid test, then you can move on to checking the starter button wiring. After all these years, it could be something as simple as a bad connection between the button and the solenoid.

[Mike1nw]

Hi, thanks for the replies.

It must be the starter button or circuit. The starter motor works fine when you attach power directly to the + terminal of the motor. The bike has spent some time near Mobile Bay, I suspect corrosion somewhere. There are other electrical gremlins here- for example, the low beam is feeble. The horn works sometimes. Etc. I think a new battery would cure some of them but present owner is short of cash.

Present owner is satisfied kick-starting it so there ya go

[Stanza]

You could also check the fuse holder, those sometimes loosen up and/or suffer from corrosion problems which would make it seem like a weak battery.