2003 Buddy 2T no electric start

[tigerstripe40]

I got a Buddy deal on a 2003 Stella 2T.
The scooter sat outside under a tarp for a good long time and hadn't run for maybe 10 years.

I got the scooter, drained the fuel and oil tanks, replaced gaskets, seals, fuel and oil hoses. I also rebuilt the carb with new gasket, ultrasonically cleaned the jets and put it all together.

New battery.
New spark plug.

I can kick start the scooter, but I do not see any oil flowing in the supply tube I suspect that when I replaced the oil tube and oil sight "glass" I got the spigot clocked the wrong way and the host is kinked.

I can not use the electric starter on the scooter.
I turn the key on and the scooter does not appear to power up. Lights not on, no horn or turn signals (I didn't run the scooter long enough after kick starting to test those, as I do not see oil flowing).

First, the battery is putting out a full 12-13 volts.
The fuse near the battery is good.
I removed the start relay and when I test it, I get a good, strong CLICK when I apply power to the start button terminals.

I removed the front cover and disconnected the PRD.

I have a good ground to the black wire and to the grey wire. I connect to the declutch switch, and pull the clutch lever, I get continuity.

When I check the start button, I get continuity through the button when I press it.

The manual shows a testing procedure for the PRD however, what is printed in the Manual, what is on the wiring diagram and whats there in real life doesn't match as far as the pin outs for the PRD goes, though I suspect that the PRD is good.

My next step is to try testing the AC/DC regulator, but aside from 'swapping with a known good unit' I find the testing procedure isn't great...

Any good hints on bench testing the regulator or any other ideas?

[Mr.FixIt]

Electrical testing should start at one end and move to the other. You've done a good job so far. I usually start at the problem device and move away from it (your choice). Get a BIG jumper lead (maybe even a automotive jumper cable) and bypass the start solenoid. Connect to the + terminal of the battery and just touch the terminal on the starter after peeling back the rubber boot. You should get a fat spark and the starter should kick over. If it doesn't, its a problem inside the starter motor itself. (The reason I said to touch at the starter motor and not at the battery is because hydrogen gas can catch alight at the battery. Wear safety goggles anyway. )

If the starter does spin, then start looking at the starter solenoid (they call it cutout relay). You said you get a loud "click" when you press the self-starter button on the handlebar. Put a voltmeter from the bike chassis ground to the lug on the starter motor. When you press the button and get the click, how far back into the circuit do you have to go before you read battery voltage?

Getting the loud click from the starter solenoid relay (cutout relay) means that it should be pulling in, unless it is faulty.

Of course the ground could also be compromised.

Take that big jumper cable and connect the body of the starter back to the - of the battery terminal. If there is a bad ground path, that would also explain the problem.

Let us know how you make out.

[tigerstripe40]

To clarify:

I get nothing when I hit the start button on the handlebar. But when I test the button on the handlbar, (disconnect from the wiring harness, set up my meter to test continuity,)I get continuity when I press the button. When I remove the starter relay, and test outside of the motorcycle, (12v power supply to the start button contacts) I get the click.