Front wheel removal

ucandoit · Post by **ucandoit** » Thu May 25, 2017 1:34 am

The thread on my Buddy 125 front tire is good, but there is some checking on the sidewall. I think it is the original tire (2008 6800 miles). Is this reason enough for a new tire? I read about tires falling apart suddenly.

I removed the rear wheel for a new tire and felt that was pretty straight forward. For some reason I'm more nervous about doing the front. Do I need to support the scooter under the floor board area before removing the wheel?

I expect to unscrew the speedometer cable, but do I also need to remove any bolts involving the brake caliper, or will the rotor slip out of the pads? I'm nervous about brakes and know NOT to touch the brake levers when the wheel is off, but I have no experience with the brakes.

I expect various spacers to fall out and am hoping I can keep track of them all. I didn't find a tutorial on front wheel removal though I have the diagram of the front wheel. Lastly, when reinserting the axle bolt, do I need to grease it and then use locktite on the threads? I have a torque wrench to tighten it properly. I wish I could find a tutorial. A shop will mount the new tire. Any instruction (more details the better) is appreciated. Thank you.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Thu May 25, 2017 9:50 pm

Removing the front wheel is easier than the rear.
With the scoot' on its center stand the front end will stay in the air, especially after the wheel is removed.
The speed' drive will swing away, hanging by the cable, no removal of it is necessary.
Loosen axle with the wheel against the floor.
Remove the brake caliper.
Wheel slips out and speedo drive slides off the axle.
New tires make a scoot' much safer.
Easy, try it.

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Thu May 25, 2017 11:59 pm

Do Not Remove the front wheel without supporting your scooter! One stiff breeze, and you will be sorry. Use a milk crate or something similar.

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Fri May 26, 2017 7:07 am

My Buddy stayed pretty secure on it's rear wheel when I removed the front wheel, but then, a Buddy is longer than a Metro so has more rear weight bias. Even when I pulled the front end down, it immediately dropped back down onto the rear wheel.

Everything GregsBuddy says is true. I would add one thing; there is only one spacer to watch out for. It will be on the left-hand side, the side with the brake rotor.

ucandoit · Post by **ucandoit** » Fri May 26, 2017 2:30 pm

Thank you DeeDee for the photo, and Gregsbuddy and Babblefish. I have a milk crate I can use just to be on the safe side.

It's good to know there is only one spacer to watch for---left side.

So, I do need to remove the two bolts holding the brake assembly. That's the part I'm nervous about. But, I'm thinking it will become clear when I get things apart. I can check the pads, then, for wear. Thank you.

JettaKnight · Post by **JettaKnight** » Fri May 26, 2017 8:01 pm

A full gas tank helps keep the center of gravity behind the centerstand.

And watch out for the speedometer cable - try to avoid letting it fall onto a dirty floor.

babblefish · Post by **babblefish** » Sat May 27, 2017 12:03 am

ucandoit wrote:Thank you DeeDee for the photo, and Gregsbuddy and Babblefish. I have a milk crate I can use just to be on the safe side.

It's good to know there is only one spacer to watch for---left side.

So, I do need to remove the two bolts holding the brake assembly. That's the part I'm nervous about. But, I'm thinking it will become clear when I get things apart. I can check the pads, then, for wear. Thank you.

Better use a very small milk crate because the battery box under the Buddy is going to get in the way...

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Mon May 29, 2017 11:43 pm

I use a stack of 2x4's under each fork leg and it seems to be okay. Yes, if you're working out of doors and there's wing, all bets are off!

cummingsjc · Post by **cummingsjc** » Tue May 30, 2017 12:53 pm

In my experience, it is not necessary to remove the front brake caliper in order to get the front tire off. The rotor will slip out of the caliper with a little finesse. However, if you do remove the front caliper, it only requires the removal of two flange bolts. Nothing should just fall apart if you take unbolt the brake caliper from the forks.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Tue May 30, 2017 4:32 pm

I haven't tried without caliper removal.
I'll do that next time.

ucandoit · Post by **ucandoit** » Wed Jun 14, 2017 4:39 pm

This is a follow-up to my post about removing the front wheel to install a new tire. It was easier than I expected. I put a bag of peat moss under the scooter, in front of the battery box area to stabilize the scooter, but as others had mentioned, when I removed the wheel the scooter leaned back and rested on the rear wheel and center stand. I had to remove the 2 bolts holding the brake caliper on as I couldn't quite manipulate the rotor free from the pads. there was only a single spacer on the left side, as Babblefish had said. reinstalling took a bit of manipulation. I found that putting the wheel back on and then attaching the caliper worked best. the front pads were fine. Had I been braver, I would have cleaned up the calliper but I don't know how and was afraid I'd get air in the brake line.
I torqued the 2 caliper bolts and used a drop of blue locktite on each. I greased the axle. I also greased the speedo cable insert--- I hope that was okay. Then I torqued the axle nut. I didn't grease the spacer. Was unsure about that.
It's nice having a new tire.
the scooter now has 7000 miles and the mechanic said he would replace the brake fluid, so maybe I'll study that and it can be my next project. thank you for everyone's help.