Kryptonite chain and lock
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Kryptonite chain and lock
Here is my dilemma. I've been riding a more lately, practicing, so putting my Dobby into it's safe parking spot every day is a major hustle. If anyone recalls my scooter is anchored next to my front step and I have to roll it up and down the ramp on to the curb, across my front lawn etc. The development obviously does not have handicapped access curb So this daily procedure while doing wonders for my abdomen is a pain in many other ways. I want to chain my Dobby to the running board of my Rav4. I have Kryptonite chain and lock, cable lock and Xena. My biggest problem is that I cannot figure out how to chain the scooter to the running board. There is not enough chain length the way I am doing it (around the middle of the scooter) Any suggestions? So far I used cable lock as an extender for the chain but I am not sure this is enough...
I am not a scooter snob.
I am a scooter connoisseur
I am a scooter connoisseur
- BootScootin'FireFighter
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I would lock it to the tow hook underneith the front or rear bumper, depending on it's location. It seems durable, I'm not sure how tough the running boards are on a smaller SUV. For the length problem, try securing the lock to the center stand, the part that's welded to the frame, not the bolted on swing-arm. Are you a renter or do you own the place? If you own the place, I'd look into a cement anchor point and leave it on the back patio area.
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I own the place. Its a town home So I cannot anchor anything on the street. If I do chances are one of my idiot neighbors from across the street will manage to park their car right where the anchor is. That is why I was dragging the bike around all the way to my front door.What I ended up doing is actually using the wire lock , wrapped it around buddy's middle twice then put the Kryptonite lock through that and secured the entire thing to the running board of my RAV4. And off course I have Xena . The bike is parked right in front of my townhouse so If Xena as much as squeaks I will be all over the sob's.
When they tried to take the bike the last time it was not tied to anything so Xena was the only real line of defence. It probably still is. I am hoping they will see the Kryptonite chain picking out from under the cover and go elsewhere.
I still think many of the bike thefts are inside jobs. Unless you are in a specifically nasty area "wardriving" and looking for bikes to steal is kind of a long shot. I think in my case it was someone in the neighborhood (scumbag drug using kids of the neighbors).
When they tried to take the bike the last time it was not tied to anything so Xena was the only real line of defence. It probably still is. I am hoping they will see the Kryptonite chain picking out from under the cover and go elsewhere.
I still think many of the bike thefts are inside jobs. Unless you are in a specifically nasty area "wardriving" and looking for bikes to steal is kind of a long shot. I think in my case it was someone in the neighborhood (scumbag drug using kids of the neighbors).
I am not a scooter snob.
I am a scooter connoisseur
I am a scooter connoisseur
- BlueMark
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Noose
If you can bear the cost, I'd get a Kryptonite NY Noose. It will give you a lot more useful length to work with.
Running boards can be removed ... not likely but possible - looping through some part of the undercarriage might be more secure.
Here's an example mlee10018 posted of using the noose with a pole and locking to the front fork. You could also lock it to a disk lock (depending on style).
Running boards can be removed ... not likely but possible - looping through some part of the undercarriage might be more secure.
Here's an example mlee10018 posted of using the noose with a pole and locking to the front fork. You could also lock it to a disk lock (depending on style).
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It looks like I made a bad choice with the chain I got: should have gotten the noose type. Oh Well. Live and learn. However, I am looking at how you used your chain on the bike fork. I was not sure how to lock that. I can get the bike close enough to the side of my car. The running boards are professionally installed by the dealer and I think it would take some doing to get between scooter and the car to cut off those so if I can figure out how to put the lock through the fork it might work. Meanwhile as family member suggested I dragged the bike back to it's usual "perch" unit I can make sure I figured out how to secure it on the street.
I am not a scooter snob.
I am a scooter connoisseur
I am a scooter connoisseur
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You might be able to sell your Chain used, for a good price. Then buy a Noose used, also.
I recently sold my NYC Fahgettaboutit (In Baltimore) on Craigslist for $50. It sold in about 2 days, which leads me to believe I undercharged
Maybe give that a try. My chain wasn't even in very good shape and I still got decent money for it.
I recently sold my NYC Fahgettaboutit (In Baltimore) on Craigslist for $50. It sold in about 2 days, which leads me to believe I undercharged
Maybe give that a try. My chain wasn't even in very good shape and I still got decent money for it.
Thought I was buying a Buddy and ended up with a People 150. Hanging out for the cool conversation!
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- KABarash
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Unless your running boards are welded to the frame "professional" instalition won't matter much. I know for a Jeep most if not ALL are just bolted on, ever the strongest 'rock rails' are just bolted on!
I'd suggest parking your 'Dobby' in your usual spot, try just leaving a couple pieces of old lumber handy to help with the curb hop issue instead of schlepping your ramp out all the time. YOU spent the time, effort and money to create your parking spot, USE it it's SECURE!
I'd suggest parking your 'Dobby' in your usual spot, try just leaving a couple pieces of old lumber handy to help with the curb hop issue instead of schlepping your ramp out all the time. YOU spent the time, effort and money to create your parking spot, USE it it's SECURE!
I'm not at home, so I can't take photos at the moment, but here are a sketches of a couple ideas that might help. For a step I have to navigate that's the height of curb, I built a small ramp out of three pieces of lumber and four wood screws. I got lucky, and a 2x6 was just the right height for the larger support, and I positioned a 2x4 at the right spot for it to line up at the ground. The guy at the lumber yard was happy to cut them for me.
For securing the scooter, I've sometimes used two locks and a chain. The trick is to lock the chain tightly about the scoot's "neck", so it can't be pulled off without disassembly. Note that I'm locking two individual links together, not just creating a sliding noose which could be loosened. Then I do the same thing at the other end, either wrapped aroung a pillar, or again choking something tightly enough to not be slipped off. This gives me nearly the full length of the chain to reach with, compared to wrapping the whole chain around both objects and having to worry about slack that would enable the scooter to be slipped out.
For securing the scooter, I've sometimes used two locks and a chain. The trick is to lock the chain tightly about the scoot's "neck", so it can't be pulled off without disassembly. Note that I'm locking two individual links together, not just creating a sliding noose which could be loosened. Then I do the same thing at the other end, either wrapped aroung a pillar, or again choking something tightly enough to not be slipped off. This gives me nearly the full length of the chain to reach with, compared to wrapping the whole chain around both objects and having to worry about slack that would enable the scooter to be slipped out.
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Josh,
I started thinking along the line of 2 locks. I have a longer Kryptonite chain so if I can loop one end around immovable object and secure that with the lock and do the same with the other end on the fork of the bike then use wire lock to immobilize the rear wheel that just might work (I pull the wire lock through the opening in the rear wheel and it should act just like a disk lock ).
I started thinking along the line of 2 locks. I have a longer Kryptonite chain so if I can loop one end around immovable object and secure that with the lock and do the same with the other end on the fork of the bike then use wire lock to immobilize the rear wheel that just might work (I pull the wire lock through the opening in the rear wheel and it should act just like a disk lock ).
I am not a scooter snob.
I am a scooter connoisseur
I am a scooter connoisseur
- JoshWED
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Yeah, I have mine on the front fork which used to give me pause on my vino: i'd only lock the back wheel since the front wheel could easily be popped off.
i'm not familiar with the buddy, so the front fork might not be the way to go. but just find a suitable anchor point on your bike and go from there.
you seem to be speaking of three locks....lots of work, but lost of deterrent! and still easier than taking it all the way to your front door I suppose!
i'm not familiar with the buddy, so the front fork might not be the way to go. but just find a suitable anchor point on your bike and go from there.
you seem to be speaking of three locks....lots of work, but lost of deterrent! and still easier than taking it all the way to your front door I suppose!
- BlueMark
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That's an excellent idea - I don't think there is much difference between the chains except for the "noose" ring - and a properly sized 2nd lock can serve the same purpose - or even give you greater options to directly lock to something rather than "noosing" it.Stormswift wrote:I figured that's what you meant. I am thinking that maybe rather then getting a new chain I can get a second lock
That photo wasn't by me, it was posted by mlee in another thread.
The easiest way to attach to the fork is to run your (regular) lock through the disc rotor (if your discs have big enough open sections) and attach the chain to it. It would serve as both a disc lock and attachment point for the chain.
Nomenclature note: Kryptonite and other companies considerably confuse the issue by calling two different things "disc locks". One type is the kind of lock that is designed to slip over a brake disc. It has a slot opening and no good way to attach a chain. The other kind is a regular lock, but it is called a "disc" lock because it uses the new "disc" type internal locking mechanism that is supposed to be much harder to defeat than other types. A good "disc" lock may also be a "disc lock". Also the words "disk" and "disc" seem to be used interchangeably without any clear distinction.
I am talking about using a "regular" lock that you can attach to a chain and attaching it to a brake disc, even though it is not designed for that. You would have to make sure you had sufficient open space in your brake disk to pass the lock's shackle through, and the shackle must be narrow enough to fit, while large enough to attach to the chain - so keep that in mind when you buy your second lock.
But that's not what I did. On the cvt housing of my old Blur 150 there was a unused attachment point for a nonexistent rear shock I presume, it was perfectly sized for the Kryptonite lock shackle.