Originally I just thought maybe the stock horn was dying. I felt like upgrading anyway so I bought and installed a stebel. Same symtoms. It seems to be random - temperature or time of day have nothing to do with the problem. I'll push the button as hard as I can and nothing! And shouting at cars just doesn't have the same effect. When the horn does decide to work, it sounds loud and healthy.
Anyone had a problem like this? Any tips on actually replacing the button? I have the parts diagram, but I'm looking to be spoon fed a replacement procedure
I'd bet it's just a bad connection, either in the harness or the button mechanism.
If it doesn't work at first, but you can wiggle the button around, or press it harder or at a certain angle and it works, I'd suspect the horn button itself.
If it doesn't work, and nothing you can do will make it work, then 20 minutes later it works fine, I'd suggest a bad connection or a short somewhere in the harness. Try it while you're moving the handlebars back and forth, maybe that's pulling on a wire or grounding something. Then try it at different temperatures and humidities and when the engine's hot and when it's cold, and with the lights on and the lights off, and with the turn signals on, and off, brake applied, etc, and take detailed notes. that'll provide clues.
Then when you have all your empirical data together, check back here for advice, or better yet, take it to the dealer and tell them what you've found.
2strokebuzz: When news breaks, we put it under a tarp in the garage.
I have that very problem. If I haven't rode my scoot for a couple days I can always count on the horn not working. Now I have learned to give it a try when I first leave for a ride to make sure I have a horn. All I need do is hold down the button for maybe thirty seconds and then the horn starts and is good for the entire day. I don't wiggle or mess with the button but just hold it down. Its like I have a "air horn" and the bladder needs to fill with air first. The funny part is that I bet the folks around me wonder what the hell I blowing my horn for.
sounds like corrosion in the switch. Or the pinching of wires is a possibility.
no one will ever know for sure unless they see it. Take it to a mechanically inclined pal or a shop to to some simple tests to see what it really is. Throw a multimeter on it and see what comes out.
Some stock style horns can get "stuck" and can be freed by moving a small screw in the back that "tunes" the horn. Not all are like this, so having someone in the know look at it is the best option. STiebels are mini air horns so its a whole different bag.
We had a connection work lose on our Buddy. In Texas you have to have an annual inspection and the horn must work to pass so I took it over to Scootersmith who popped off the faring and ran his fingers along the wires to find the spot where it was connected but only losely. Got the side mirror repalced at the same time since my son had banged it on a wall parking and the resulting dent pushed the mirror out. When we tried to put it back in the mirror cracked so we needed to get it replaced too.
Thanks for all of the suggestions thus far! I'm going to bite the bullet and take everything apart to see what I can find, armed with my multimeter or course. Hoping to find some corrosion or a loose connection.
Sailboat13 wrote:All I need do is hold down the button for maybe thirty seconds and then the horn starts and is good for the entire day
This actually seems to work quite well for me. I held the button for about 4 seconds and it started blaring. I've done the same in the past few days and it definitely seems to make a positive difference. Totally weird.
Sailboat13 wrote:All I need do is hold down the button for maybe thirty seconds and then the horn starts and is good for the entire day
This actually seems to work quite well for me. I held the button for about 4 seconds and it started blaring. I've done the same in the past few days and it definitely seems to make a positive difference. Totally weird.
Okay, now you all are making me nervous. If you don't mind me asking, exactly which Stebel horn did you install? And did you wire in a relay or did you just replace your stock horn with the Stebel?
jrsjr wrote:If you don't mind me asking, exactly which Stebel horn did you install? And did you wire in a relay or did you just replace your stock horn with the Stebel?
Mine is a Nautilus and I wired it up via the included relay.
A mere 3.5 years later and I finally got around to fixing my unreliable horn button! Turns out that corrosion of the switch was indeed the cause. Here are some pictures for ya - click any for the full resolution..
The exposed button
The green stuff is corrosion of the copper (or brass?)
Disassembled button with spring removed. When you push the button, the spring and metal thingy complete a circuit which (via a relay) sends power to the horn. But with all that corrosion, my button never was able to complete the circuit.
After an overnight soak in a solution of Bar Keepers Friend (that stuff works MIRACLES on metal)
Removed the old wires and soldered on some freshies
This is awesome, I have the same issue which I think is caused by the switch. What I can't figure out is how to expose the switch. You didn't by any chance document that part did you?
This is awesome, I have the same issue which I think is caused by the switch. What I can't figure out is how to expose the switch. You didn't by any chance document that part did you?
I didn't document that step, sorry. But generally here's what I did:
Remove entire top shell. Follow these instructions, then unscrew the speedometer cable and unplug any wires. The entire top shell will come off.
Use a small wrench to remove the turn signal and just let it dangle.
Use your screwdriver to remove the two black external screws of the switch assembly. The black shell should now come apart in half.
Take a picture of the inside of the switch assembly. It is a very tight fit with wires, and I wish I would have taken a photo to remember how it all fits together.
Remove the 4 internal screws that hold all the switches in place. The switch is now completely exposed.
Once clean, you might also coat the parts with a thin layer of dielectric grease, to protect them in the future.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
OldGuy wrote:Once clean, you might also coat the parts with a thin layer of dielectric grease, to protect them in the future.
Yeah, you can get small amounts of that stuff at car shops. Otherwise it will corrode again fairly quickly and your efforts will have been for naught. Nice write up, BTW.
OldGuy wrote:Once clean, you might also coat the parts with a thin layer of dielectric grease, to protect them in the future.
Yeah, you can get small amounts of that stuff at car shops. Otherwise it will corrode again fairly quickly and your efforts will have been for naught. Nice write up, BTW.
All good advice. I forgot to mention that I did at a bit of (general purpose) grease to both ends of the spring.You can see it a little in the last two photos of the switch.
1971 Hodaka Ace 100
1977 Suzuki GT250 is now sold... Good bike!
1980 Yamaha IT125
Honda: '66 CT90 KO; '83 CT110; '92 CT70; 2001 XR250
and 1 or 2 others... I need to sell some bikes!
