Oil drain plug and screen & correct oil level

[omniphil]

So since the oil plug is spring loaded all the stuff came shooting out into the pan and I was unable to see how that little screen came off or went back in.

The spring appears to be part of the drain plug and what I did was install the screen with the rubber gasket side up and then drop that into the spring, so the screen side slides down into the spring and installed it that way, seems to be the best fit, but i'm certainly not sure.

Does any one have any pics of the unit how its supposed to look ready for assembly?


Side note, On the dipstick there are little hash marks and then the smooth part, I would assume that "full" is at the top of the hash marks. But what the manual doesn't say if that is with the bike on the center stand or on the wheels with it level?

I also think I put in a little too much oil as it about half inch past the hash marks and on to the smooth area after the bike has sat for a while and all the oil has drained down. I know that with a car engine that too much oil can cause the crank to actually slosh in the oil causing a little foaming of the oil and reducing the oil effectiveness.

Any idea how the blur 220 engine is setup? I didn't put way to much in, just maybe a little more. I put in 1 quart and then added a tiny bit from a second bottle around 50ml

[illnoise]

My blur oil change thread is here:

topic5887.html

I had the same thing happen. You can see in the photo how the spring goes, the screen sits above the spring, with the rounded part sticking up.

As far as oil, I always just measure what I took out and put the same amount in. I'd say if it's over the line when cold, drain a little because it expands when hot and that might be way too much. If it's over the line when warmed up (after allowing it to settle), its probably OK.

[omniphil]

My blur oil change thread is here:

topic5887.html

I had the same thing happen. You can see in the photo how the spring goes, the screen sits above the spring, with the rounded part sticking up.

As far as oil, I always just measure what I took out and put the same amount in. I'd say if it's over the line when cold, drain a little because it expands when hot and that might be way too much. If it's over the line when warmed up (after allowing it to settle), its probably OK.

Hmmm, interesting. I tried fitting the screen into the crankcase by hand and it didnt seem to like being inserted screen end up. Do you push it up in there by hand and then insert the spring cap, or do you let it balance on top of the spring and stick the whole thing up there?

I was thinking that the screen was design to trap particles, if the screen is inserted with the round part up then how would it trap anything? I would think that the round part needs to be down so it can form a catch basin for the particles?

[turboscott]

Omni.....you probably figured this out by now but your gut feeling was correct. The screen goes inside the spring, as that is how mine came out when I did mine today. I think it was misexplained in the previous posts.

Actually my post now is to avoid anyone else being confused by the instruction.

[Edward]

What's the oil change mileage on the above type of scooter? And when to change the oil filter?

[chickdr]

What's the oil change mileage on the above type of scooter? And when to change the oil filter?

It should be 3000 KM's between changes. People on these boards seem to say anywhere from 1,000 KM to 3K. First oil change is 500 miles. Oil filter can be changed each time, or every 2 oil changes.

[Edward]

Thanks, Chickdr!

[skip!]

just filled up my 220i gearbox with 80w/90. o.k. or not o.k.?

[turboscott]

just filled up my 220i gearbox with 80w/90. o.k. or not o.k.?

What does the manual say to use?

[omniphil]

just filled up my 220i gearbox with 80w/90. o.k. or not o.k.?

What does the manual say to use?

The manual states 140 weight gear oil...
Pretty sure I used the lucas 85w-140 gear oil when I did mine.

[skip!]

yep, I just didn't have any so I used what I had thinking it would be alright. I guess I'll change it today.

[omniphil]

yep, I just didn't have any so I used what I had thinking it would be alright. I guess I'll change it today.

Just keep the wheelies to a minimum and you should be ok

[turboscott]

yep, I just didn't have any so I used what I had thinking it would be alright. I guess I'll change it today.

It would be okay in an "emergency, gotta get the bike home the last few miles" situation and "nothing in the bag but this" scenario....but understanding motor oil weights/viscosity is very important.

All persons should read up on oil weights to understand the right and wrong of it all....here is a good link to Amsoil explaining motor oil. (Note: Just a link, not an endorsement. I do not use Amsoil)

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

also read for basic gearbox oils: (Note: the temp character and abiity to Stick to the crude HD gears as they rotate at speed...this is why 90 is not such a good idea.)

Grade
The SAE grading system indicates oil viscosity in simple numbers ranging from the thin oil (10) to the very thick oil (140 or above). Heavier weight, or higher grade oil is more viscous and therefore thicker as it flows between the gears. Light grade oil is ideal for small, fast, polished gears under a light load. Heavy grade oil is suited for large, slow, rough gears under a heavy load. Check your manufacture's specifications for the gear grade needed in your equipment.

Multi-Grade
To account for changing temperatures oil is manufactured through the use of additives so that it can have multiple grades of viscosity, or multiple weights. One weight will be a winter weight and the other will be the hot weight. So you may see gear oil listed as "75W-90" which gives you both the winter and hot weights of the oil. Instead of switching out the oil during the year to compensate for the changing temperatures, most equipment will allow a multi-grade oil to be used year-round (check your manufacturer's specifications to be sure).

[Cpequin]

Hi Peeps! So what exactly is the difference performance-wise between the black $9.95 oil filter such as that sold at Pride of Cleveland Scooters, and the Malossi Red Chilli oil filter for $14.95 at ScootersWest? I'm asking, because I've apparently used both. The first time I ordered the generic one online since the Honda dealership didn't stock my filter, and the next time, the scooter dealership used a Malossi, and I just noticed it when I was going to order some filters to attempt changing my own fluids. Do the Malossi's really filter better, or do they just look pretty and slap $5 on it for looks? Thanks in advance!!

[turboscott]

Hi Peeps! So what exactly is the difference performance-wise between the black $9.95 oil filter such as that sold at Pride of Cleveland Scooters, and the Malossi Red Chilli oil filter for $14.95 at ScootersWest? I'm asking, because I've apparently used both. The first time I ordered the generic one online since the Honda dealership didn't stock my filter, and the next time, the scooter dealership used a Malossi, and I just noticed it when I was going to order some filters to attempt changing my own fluids. Do the Malossi's really filter better, or do they just look pretty and slap $5 on it for looks? Thanks in advance!!

Unless someone here has actually had both and opened them to look for differences, I am going to assume you won't get a definitive answer.

Two things to ask yourself that may help you keep the bike running longer and better....

1) Is $5 going to hurt you even if it doesnt work better? (Just a question of course - I know the answer) Equating to roughly only $10 for a year of driving, I would concentrate more on the quality of the oil and frequency of proper changes, but most importantly doing oil level checks to keep it as high as recommended than worry about the $5 difference. Just get the filter changed with a fresh unit regardless of which as available. The filters in these tiny motors do not actually do much anyway due to the small size, oil quantity and short frequency of changes. You can actually save the money by getting the oil in larger jugs from Walmart or other cheaper sources.
2) Are you checking the levels occasionally and adding additional oil as needed to ensure proper lube and freshness or just looking to save a few bucks changing it yourself? I see too many people thinking that by changing the oil themselves to save a few $$ they are doing a good thing without taking into account the important aspect of the oil and changes. (Many people just change it when time but do not take the extra time to check the oil levels.) It is a good idea to check the oil level at least weekly and keep some fresh oil in the garage all the time to keep the fluid level optimum. This is where you will save the money...by saving the motor and keeping it in tip top shape.

In the long run....the maintenance costs are more, but for a bike with a longer life span.

[illnoise]

http://modernvespa.com/forum/topic26422 ... ter&page=2

read both pages, there are photos of the insides of a couple brands. One user mentions he cut open a malossi and it was of higher quality than the HiProFlo, similar to the Piaggio, but the general consensus seems to be that any of them are fine, and it's not worth paying extra since they all function the same way, unless you prefer the 'nut' on top, instead of the 'notch,' which I do, but there are cheaper options with the nut.

It also says that in the rare case that any oil filter fails/collapses/clogs (very unlikely, and even less likely if you follow maintenance intervals), the oil simply bypasses it through another passageway.

If an oil filter spins off, that's obviously a problem, but there's no reason to think any brand would be more likely than another to spin off, if they're installed properly.

Bryan