What size Valve Lash Wrench do I need?

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2wheelNsanity
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What size Valve Lash Wrench do I need?

Post by 2wheelNsanity »

What size Valve Lash Wrench do I need?
I missed my 500mi dealer service about 2500miles ago, TeeHee :D . Live and learn, I couldn't get my scooter to the dealer (120 mi. away + bad weather + no roads under 65mph) so I have done the oil, gear oil, and spark plug changes my self and "Kaze" runs fine. I have noticed a little top-end loss, my friend suggested I check the valve lash. I called around my area to see if a local motorcycle dealer could do it and the only one said they can do it, but for a minimum $150.00 (the service tech said "could be more, hard to tell until I'm finished with it"), Ouch!!!!!!!!!!!. I am by no means a mechanic, but from the Genuine Dealer First Service video and other vids on Youtube it looks like it would take a max of 15minutes to perform. Well, I'm not mechanically inept, I do overthink stuff, so I'll give it a try. Any advice and tips would be greatly appreceated.

Also just a general question, seeing how I've only been scoot'n for 4 months, why do motorcycle shops hate scooters?
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Syd
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Re: What size Valve Lash Wrench do I need?

Post by Syd »

2wheelNsanity wrote:why do motorcycle shops hate scooters?
Why do Newcastle football hooligans hate Manchester United football hooligans? Protestants hate Catholics? Bowties hate Blue Ovals? Mongols hate Hell's Angels? North hate South? Known hate the Unknown?

No reason, scoots are just different from motorcycles, and...
The majority is always sane - Nessus
Chilly
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Post by Chilly »

My motorcycle shop has a very pleasant staff, Competition Cycle, I get no attitude and only go there for $10 tire changes, and to buy new tires. As far as doing a valve adjustment it is easy and does take about only 15 minutes(going slowly and carefully). Only special tool you need is a feeler gauge with a .08mm gauge. The tutorial in the tech library has an excellant how to.
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2wheelNsanity
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Post by 2wheelNsanity »

Thanx for the info. I've never been a hater, my philosophy has always been "as long as what your doing doesn't hurt me or put me in danger than cool"
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easy
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Post by easy »

gota do it with a cold engine make sure its tdc i think the hardest part is getting feeling the drag on the blade part
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PeteH
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Post by PeteH »

Here's the thing - the proper clearance is .08mm, intake and exhaust. Follow the procedure on p. 28 of the service manual.

That being said, the Genuine dealer first-service video shows the use of the clever valve-set tool (a similar looking tool is available at scooterworks - http://www.scooterworks.com/Tappet-Tool ... P9796.aspx), but here's what hurts my head about this video - the voiceover guy says that each 'click' or marking on the set knob is some fixed amount - I think he says .001 inch, and that you should screw it all the way down, then back it off 3 notches, which equates to the .08mm. This would not be necessarily true for all bikes, as it would depend on the thread pitch of the valve tappet. But I imagine that all the PGO valves are the same, and hopefully three notches on this particular tool equate to .08mm.

A Prudent Man would doublecheck the tool with the appropriate feeler gauge (0.08mm roughly = 0.003 inch).

Beyond that, it's not a terribly difficult procedure, in the abstract. I've yet to do it myself on my 150, but I used to do it regularly on my old Honda four-cylinder (8 valves to adjust). As mentioned before - the engine must be at top-dead-center AND must be cold. Don't fudge on this.
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Lotrat
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Post by Lotrat »

There's a little fineness needed. When you tighten down the locknut you'll want to make sure that you don't tighten the center screw too. Once the gap is setvyou need to tighten the locknut while at the same time you put some counter clockwise tension on the center screw to counteract the locknut being tightened. It's a two handed operation. Once you get in there, you'll understand what I'm trying to explain. It's not hard.
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Raiderfn311
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Post by Raiderfn311 »

Pete you read my mind! Im buying one of those tools!!!
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PeteH
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Post by PeteH »

Oh, by the way, on p. 28 of the [interestingly-translated] service manual, it actually tells you to remove the cylinder head. Don't do that. Egad. Only the cylinder head cover (four bolts and a hose).

Follow the Genuine video - it makes pretty good sense.
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Syd
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Post by Syd »

And remember: a little loose is better than a little tight*








*little = very little
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Raiderfn311
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Post by Raiderfn311 »

Just ordered a tappet tool set from Scooterworks(along with 2 oil filters, a St Tropez pint mug, and some ipone 80/140 gear oil). Looking forward to this little adventure!
The Edge....there is no honest way to explain it because the only people who truly know where it is have gone over. -Hunter S. Thompson
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