PICTURIAL: How to change the oil in a Buddy 125
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- un_designer
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PICTURIAL: How to change the oil in a Buddy 125
Again with help from velobuff, here's a step-by-step guide to changing oil on a Buddy 125 (and perhaps 150, too?).
Also, I found this excellent article explaining oil viscosity grades/ratings, and what it means:
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
UPDATED June 29, 2012 with more accurate/better notes in pictures.
Also, I found this excellent article explaining oil viscosity grades/ratings, and what it means:
http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/
UPDATED June 29, 2012 with more accurate/better notes in pictures.
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Last edited by un_designer on Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:22 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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reserved for steps 4-6.
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Last edited by un_designer on Fri May 25, 2012 2:17 pm, edited 2 times in total.
» Current: 2006 Saabaru 9-2x Aero, 2006 Scion xB, Original '07 Series Italia, 2003 Marin Highway One
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UPDATED June 29, 2012 for more accurate/better notes.
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Last edited by un_designer on Fri Jun 29, 2012 3:24 pm, edited 3 times in total.
» Current: 2006 Saabaru 9-2x Aero, 2006 Scion xB, Original '07 Series Italia, 2003 Marin Highway One
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- PeteH
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Two good how-tos in one day.
Again, I offer a couple minor suggestions:
1) Oil capacity _with_ filter change is about 900cc. Don't overfill, as you could blow some seals. Add 800, check the level using the dipstick (screwed IN), run the engine for a few minutes to check for leaks, stop it, let things drain down for a couple minutes, and re-check the level. Add oil as needed.
2) Buddy 150 and 170 have their filter up next to their oil cooler rather than on the crankcase, but they work the same way. Capacities might be a little higher than the 125 due to the oil cooler plumbing, so re-checks with the dipstick are a good idea.
Keep up the good tutorials.
Again, I offer a couple minor suggestions:
1) Oil capacity _with_ filter change is about 900cc. Don't overfill, as you could blow some seals. Add 800, check the level using the dipstick (screwed IN), run the engine for a few minutes to check for leaks, stop it, let things drain down for a couple minutes, and re-check the level. Add oil as needed.
2) Buddy 150 and 170 have their filter up next to their oil cooler rather than on the crankcase, but they work the same way. Capacities might be a little higher than the 125 due to the oil cooler plumbing, so re-checks with the dipstick are a good idea.
Keep up the good tutorials.
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- michelle_7728
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Yeah that could be a biggie. Even though 900cc is 0.9510193894942653 quart, you still don't want to overfill. It's better to be slightly low on oil than to overfill.
You obviously are very good with Paint, or Photoshop, so just redo and replace that one picture that says to add ona quart, saying instead 900 cc.
Otherwise, extremely good pictorial!
I've changed my own oil once or twice and never was sure where that screen was (luckily I HAVE had the dealer do maintenance and oil changes, so I know that has been cleaned. Now I'll know exactly how to do it next time!
Again, nice job!
You obviously are very good with Paint, or Photoshop, so just redo and replace that one picture that says to add ona quart, saying instead 900 cc.
Otherwise, extremely good pictorial!
I've changed my own oil once or twice and never was sure where that screen was (luckily I HAVE had the dealer do maintenance and oil changes, so I know that has been cleaned. Now I'll know exactly how to do it next time!
Again, nice job!
Past bikes: 08' Genuine Buddy 125, '07 Yamaha Majesty 400, '07 Piaggio MP3 250, '08 Piaggio MP3 500, '08 Aprilia Scarabeo 500
Current bikes: Two '09 Genuine Buddy 125's
Current bikes: Two '09 Genuine Buddy 125's
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Unless you're doing a premature oil change for some reason, I'd recommend changing the filter every time.
Is it essential or will not doing it kill your scooter? Probably not. But a filter is $10-$12 and changing it's quite easy!
Is it essential or will not doing it kill your scooter? Probably not. But a filter is $10-$12 and changing it's quite easy!
Eric // LA Scooter Meetup Group // Stella 4T // Vespa LX // Vespa LXS // Honda Helix // some, uh, projects…
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yea. it was more a factor of looming rain and not having a filter around to change. this was kind of a last minute thing. we also didn't get to the transmission oil either.
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- Mousenut
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I have a 50 so I'm looking more for entertainment sake here but would you benifit from running engine for a short period of time to warm it up a bit to help old oil flow better/faster?
Just wondering since I wished I ran around the block a few times before I changed my gear oil (thick as heck). Even a few degrees increase from friction would have been better than cold honey.
Just wondering since I wished I ran around the block a few times before I changed my gear oil (thick as heck). Even a few degrees increase from friction would have been better than cold honey.
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Not at all, but you should go to the dealer for your first service, around 600 miles. There's a laundry list of checks that need to be done then to make sure the scoot's running right.Diblit wrote:my buddy is brand new, so will changing the oil myself mess with my warranty?
Also, changing the oil is just one of many maintenance tasks that need to be done regularly. Most are fairly easy—like you, I had no skills when I started out. But even if you change the oil according to the schedules, you'll still need to do transmission, valve and other checks.
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Nope. You don't have to. The reason that we did that: removing the side plug first was a cleaner way of doing it, because the oil flows sideway inside of down into your hands.zuki wrote:Just wanted to know if there is a need to take the first plug out(one with out the screen) I just use the plug on the bottom of the motor(with the screen),will all the oil not drain if the other plug is not taken off too.I always change the filter too.
Then, after the oil's mostly drained out via the side plug, we got the rest of the oil out using the bottom plug (the one with the screen).
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Storm, I wondered the same thing, but just went ahead and did it. The 'draining' part of the operation is identical to the 125. The only difference is the oil filter's location. Where the oil filter on the 125 is mounted right to the engine, the 150 and 170 have an oil cooler assembly, which is mounted just forward of the engine and connects with some plumbing. On the 150, the oil cooler lies between the engine and the battery box. The oil filter is also found in this box, right next to the oil cooler tubes. The filter is the same as the 125 (Vespa/Piaggio type) and the same removal/replacement instructions apply.Stormswift wrote:For those of us who are mechanically challenged, are there pictorials of Oil change tor 150cc? As well as for filter change?
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This is a great tutorial. There is another good one (with filter and gear oil instructions/pics) here in our tech library.pugbuddy wrote:These pictorals are fantastic! Many thanks! If the weather will drop below 100 degrees (not kidding, it's well over most of the week), I may try to make the change myself once it's time.
Looking forward to the gear oil/filter tutorials.
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torque wrench
thnx this is awsome and just what I was looking for.
But I've read about a torque wrench. What is it and at what stage is it used and where do I buy one???
How frequently should oil be changed????
But I've read about a torque wrench. What is it and at what stage is it used and where do I buy one???
How frequently should oil be changed????
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Re: torque wrench
Engine oil should be changed at 600 miles, then every 2K afterwards. Gear oil should be changed every 4K.avonpirate wrote:thnx this is awsome and just what I was looking for.
But I've read about a torque wrench. What is it and at what stage is it used and where do I buy one???
How frequently should oil be changed????
A torque wrench allows you to tighten something to a specific "tightness" ("torque" is rotational force). When doing an oil change, you need it when replacing the filter. Filters should be torqued to 12ft. lbs. (Some torque wrenches don't go this low and most only have metric readings, so be careful with what you buy!) It's also necessary to torque several other parts if you'll be doing your own maintenance, especially in the transmission.
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Thanx!PeteH wrote:Storm, I wondered the same thing, but just went ahead and did it. The 'draining' part of the operation is identical to the 125. The only difference is the oil filter's location. Where the oil filter on the 125 is mounted right to the engine, the 150 and 170 have an oil cooler assembly, which is mounted just forward of the engine and connects with some plumbing. On the 150, the oil cooler lies between the engine and the battery box. The oil filter is also found in this box, right next to the oil cooler tubes. The filter is the same as the 125 (Vespa/Piaggio type) and the same removal/replacement instructions apply.Stormswift wrote:For those of us who are mechanically challenged, are there pictorials of Oil change tor 150cc? As well as for filter change?
I am not a scooter snob.
I am a scooter connoisseur
I am a scooter connoisseur