2nd service

[kat]

I got my 1st service at 500 miles.
What's the reccommendatin for the second one?

[ericalm]

Hi, kat!

Here's the post from Genuine:

The optimum schedule is this for Buddy 125 and Blur is the following:

Change oil and perform first service at 200 miles. This includes a valve clearance inspection. Scooter people aren't typically familiar with valves, but people who are experienced with motorcycles (and four stroke engines in general) know this is a part of regular maintenance.

After the first oil change, you can go 1,000-1,500 miles (I recommend 1,000) if you use regular oil. If you use synthetic, you can go 1,500-2,000 miles between oil changes (I recommend 1,500).

Inspect the valve clearance every 4,000 miles, adjust if necessary.
-The standard valve spacing is between 0.06 – 0.10mm with engine off.
-When the spacing is too small, idle speed will become unstable and you can burn up the valves.

-When the spacing is too large, loud noise will occur and the scooter will run poorly.


This is all in miles, and straight from the factory.

Thanks!!!

Brett Ratner
Genuine Scooters Dealer Development
877.MY.STELLA

So, second around 1,500 miles after your first oil change. The valve adjustment at 4K is pretty important, too.

[kat]

thx eric,
much appreciated!

[smokin_cannon]

yes, thanx for post.

[lobsterman]

I got my 1st service at 500 miles.
What's the reccommendatin for the second one?

If you got regular oil at your first service, do the second at around 1500 miles.

If you went with synthetic oil, you can wait until 2000 to 2500 to do the second service.

[ryder1]

The dealer said my next oil change s/be at 2,000 miles (uses synthetic). Its at 2060 right now.

I'm not sure how much longer weather will permit for riding in MN depending on what type of fall we have.

Am I better to have the oil changed now and let it sit through winter OR continue to ride till 2500 or more and have the oil changed in next Spring.

Do I need to have the oil changed again in the Spring even if I have it changed now?

[rickyd410]

What exactly needs to be done during this second service.

[ericalm]

In addition to oil change and air filter maintenance, here's what gets checked at the second service (according to the service manual). Of course, this is as poorly-translated and inconsistent as the owner's manual, so...

• suspension, steering, handlebar
• front fork
• brake levers clearance & movement
• misc. brake checks
• tire pressure
• tire damage
• tire tread
• wheel surface & metals
• axel nut
• rims
• rear damper spring
• "ass' part loose or damage" [I have no idea what that's supposed to be!]
• clutch, variator
• ignition
• charging
• battery
• wire harnesses
• engine performance
• exhaust
• oil leaks
• fuel leaks
• misc. carb checks
• electrical: lights, signals, horn
• misc. chassis checks

Now, I wouldn't expect a dealer to go through this point by point. Some of the checks should be painfully obvious—steering problems, damage to rims and so on. Other problems should have been noticed by the owners before bringing the scoot in. But the main points should all get hit. That said, this one's easily done at home.

Checking and adjusting valve clearance is a bit more complex, though which is why (IMHO) it's important to bring the scoot in for that service unless you really know what you're doing.

[rickyd410]

So my second service cost me 185 bucks.

2 hours service.

[Dooglas]

The dealer said my next oil change s/be at 2,000 miles (uses synthetic). Its at 2060 right now.

I'm not sure how much longer weather will permit for riding in MN depending on what type of fall we have.

Am I better to have the oil changed now and let it sit through winter OR continue to ride till 2500 or more and have the oil changed in next Spring.

Do I need to have the oil changed again in the Spring even if I have it changed now?

My advice would be to change it now at the correct interval (this is not a difficult do-it-yourself job). That way the scooter will have clean oil in the crankcase through the winter. You would not need to change the oil again in the spring.

[ryder1]

I brought it to the dealer for oil change at 2300 and he said it was good to have it changed before setting all winter.

Is there a diagram showing where the screw is to drain the carb after I put in Stabl and run the gas through?

Also, what if I keep the battery tender on it all winter and just start it up once a week...would I have to drain the carb?

[truckasaurus]

Actually, if you start it once a week, let it warm up (so that the fast idle drops to regular idle), and even run it up and down the block a couple times, you shouldn't need the battery tender or to drain the carb. If it's too cold to run up and down the block, you could just let it idle for a few minutes and shut it off. You only need to clean out the carb if you're gonna let it sit for long periods of time (and the old gas sits around in the carb).

[ryder1]

Okay, even in MN where the temps get very cold if we have a harsh Winter?

[hcstrider]

Is there a diagram showing where the screw is to drain the carb after I put in Stabl and run the gas through?

Also, what if I keep the battery tender on it all winter and just start it up once a week...would I have to drain the carb?

If stored longer than about 60 days gasoline has a tendency to deteriorate such that it will leave deposits in your carburetor and fuel lines. Vehicles that are stored for long periods of time such as vehicles stored over the winter can have gasoline that goes bad and clogs up the carburetor and fuel lines. Even if you run your Buddy for a few minutes every week, the remaining/unused gasoline in the fuel tank is still deteriorating and will leave deposits in your carburetor and fuel lines. STA-BIL is a gasoline additive which slows down the deterioration of gasoline.

Here is how I plan on preparing my Buddy’s fuel system for winter storage. In the weeks leading up to storage I will add a little STA-BIL to each tank of gasoline. This way the STA-BIL gets thoroughly mixed in with the gasoline in the tank/fuel lines/carburetor. The STA-BIL gets poured directly into the gasoline tank. I will do this for what I think will be the last 2 or 3 fill-ups just in case the cold weather arrives sooner than expected this way my Buddy’s fuel system is already prepped for storage. Because the Buddy’s fuel tank is so small I don’t have to add much STA-BIL, maybe half an ounce up to an ounce with each fill-up.

When I am ready to store my Buddy for the winter I will fill up the fuel tank so that I don’t get water condensation in the fuel tank over the winter and then add about an ounce of STA-BIL to keep the newly added gasoline from deteriorating.

Starting with the initial 2 or 3 fill ups to the final fill up before storage it shouldn’t take more than about 3 ounces of STA-BIL. If you purchase the 4 ounce bottle of STA-BIL, save the last ounce for a possible mid-winter thaw where you might get a chance to ride your Buddy for a week or 2 before winter re-emerges. That final ounce can be added to your February mid-winter thaw fill-up.

This is my plan for prepping my Buddy’s fuel system for the winter because I don’t anticipate riding my Buddy during December through March time frame.

[poop colored buddy]

wow, after reading all these replies, i realize how lucky i am living in AZ. i get to ride all year! lucky me!