Just Double Checking a couple of things: Maintenance

vantage · Post by **vantage** » Thu Dec 27, 2012 6:28 pm

My Tires have atmosphere ratings on them. It is my understanding that you do about 15 pounds of pressure per atm. (14.7 rounded).

Is this correct?

My clutch is not ajusted properly. Example, I start the bike in Nuetral, with clutch lever all the way , then shift to 1st gear, the bike will move even with clutch lever entirely in. I think that this makes shifting in general seem touchier than it should be.

It seems, I want to take more slack out of the cable. Is this correct?

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Thu Dec 27, 2012 6:41 pm

correct...too much slack

and yes 15 lbs approx per atomosphere. I run 32 lbs in the rear. and 25 in the front.

jmer1234 · Post by **jmer1234** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 2:19 am

I would ask what you mean by “move when you shift into first gear”. Every Stella I have seen seems to shudder just a little when shifted into first (mine included), but it does not continue to pull, once the shift is complete. Does that mean it is out of adjustment? I have always likened it to an inboard motor on a boat that will "griiiiiiiind, kerplunk", with a shudder when shifting into drive. The sound and shudder in that situation is normal.

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 1:20 pm

Vantage is describing 'Creep'

If the clutch has too much free play it cannot disengage fully with the lever fully pulled.
So, in addition to the 'clunk' of gear engagement, he is feeling the bike begin to move, as though he is releasing the lever.

Your outboard engagement sound is quite accurate.
But, unlike a outboard which engages its prop and begins to turn on engagement (no clutch), the disengaged clutch should allow no power to the driven gears......just the 'clunk' of engagement.

Rob

rondothemidget · Post by **rondothemidget** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 7:36 pm

I don't mean to hijack this thread as I hope it develops into a discussion on general maintenance.

Does anyone know the recommended mileage/frequency for adjusting the valves on the 4T? I can't find any reference in the manual or the Inter-Web. The only thing I see is that it is required to be done at the initial service.

Thanks.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 8:48 pm

rondothemidget wrote:I don't mean to hijack this thread as I hope it develops into a discussion on general maintenance.

Does anyone know the recommended mileage/frequency for adjusting the valves on the 4T? I can't find any reference in the manual or the Inter-Web. The only thing I see is that it is required to be done at the initial service.

Thanks.

What are "valves"?

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 9:02 pm

BuddyRaton wrote:What are "valves"?

They're "value add" parts included in your Buddy and Burgie. What a wiseguy!

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 11:23 pm

rondothemidget wrote:I don't mean to hijack this thread as I hope it develops into a discussion on general maintenance.

Does anyone know the recommended mileage/frequency for adjusting the valves on the 4T? I can't find any reference in the manual or the Inter-Web. The only thing I see is that it is required to be done at the initial service.

Thanks.

He, he.....I kinda thought the two stroke crowd would chime in, however,
your question has merit.

Years back, the valves would wear or receed deeper into the valve seat of the cylinder head.
This would reduce the clearance and if not attended, the play or valve lash would become zero.
As the engine warmed and parts expanded, the valve could not seat fully and the flames of combustion would melt (burn) the valve or seat or both.

Four stroke engines have used hardened valves and seats since unleaded fuel came about in the mid 70's and the need for valve adjustment during inspection has become less and less as better valve actuation materials have come about.
In the case of the Stella 4t, the valves and seats are hardened and a rocker arm using a roller wheel with needle bearings against the camshaft is utilized.
This design arm, with the fulcrum fixed, the roller cam follower, and the hardened adjuster against the hardened valve is extremely stable and maintains its clearance very well.

The first clearance verification and adjustment if needed is only to make up for any initial wear at the rocker or valve seat.

Once the first service has been performed with the valves at specification the only thing that will occur is possible wear causing excessive clearance.
This will become a audible tick or click at one half engine speed.
That is when it is time to re-establish the correct clearance.....it is based off of excessive noise.
As a result, there is no specific, should be checked every xxxxx miles.

If it was mine, I would verify clearance at 5000 mile intervals.....a piece of mind thing that only takes about a half hour at worst.

Happy New Year!

Rob

jimmbomb · Post by **jimmbomb** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:39 am

great answer..
Im glad that Robbie is here with us on these threads.. very knowledgeable and always willing to share and help out when he can!
Stay with us man!

Robbie · Post by **Robbie** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 9:25 pm

Thanks for the accolade Jimmbomb......sometimes I wonder if my responses are of any value and I try hard to keep them understandable.

Rob

SYMbionic Duo · Post by **SYMbionic Duo** » Wed Jan 02, 2013 4:28 pm

I'm always up for an info dump. Keep 'em coming.

-duo

rondothemidget · Post by **rondothemidget** » Sun Jan 13, 2013 2:49 am

Thank you Robbie! I sincerely appreciate it.

Modern Buddy

Just Double Checking a couple of things: Maintenance

Just Double Checking a couple of things: Maintenance

Valves

Re: Valves

Re: Valves

Re: Valves