Poloni 165cc big bore kit, Turbocharger and EFI project

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 12:44 am

I got the Poloni 165cc Big Bore kit about a month ago and finally installed it on my Stella last week. It only took about 3 hours to install, very easy.

I’m going to mount the turbocharger below the left side cowl (where the bottom of the spare tire would stick out). I’ve got all the pipe work for the exhaust, just need to weld it all together and install it, then I’ll be able to figure out a way to mount the turbo to the engine, I’ll most likely make a bracket and use the bolt hole where the stock exhaust used to bolt up to and I bought a small SuperTrap exhaust that will attach to the turbo.

All the tubing for the intake side of the turbo to the fuel injection throttle body is ready to install. I had to make an adapter for the throttle body to connect to the stock intake manifold because the throttle body’s mounting hole’s are off center of the bore. Also, the throttle body’s bore is 28mm and the intake manifold’s bore is 20mm so I tapered the bore on the adapter to reflect that.

I havent figure out where I'm going to put the oil reservoir and cooler yet, but I know I'll have to make the reservoir myself. I'm going to make one that will hold a quart of oil.

I bought an Anti-Gravity battery which is smaller and has more power than the stock battery. The extra space achieved by this gives me room to mount the brainbox for the EFI next to the battery.

I didn't take any pic’s of the big bore kit install, but I’ll post some of the turbo and EFI when it's installed.

Yalzin · Post by **Yalzin** » Sun Mar 15, 2015 1:35 pm

Do you have a parts list? I know a few people who might like a turbocharger (not just on a Stella

)

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Mon Mar 16, 2015 2:08 pm

Will you be upgrading the rest of your driveline to handle the extra power? I am thinking is the crank, bearings up to it? Based on my clutch's lack luster performance, that may be an issue as well. I would like to hear more... and see photos!

Johnny O · Post by **Johnny O** » Mon Mar 16, 2015 4:45 pm

I would caution to steer clear unless you are doing a build just as a challenge. Something to think about...and you may be aware of this but this is for the benefit of other readers whom may be considering a similar build. Turbos require an equally good fuel delivery to operate efficiently and safely. Fuel injection is only part of the equation. You need to be able to perform custom fuel mapping. Monitoring the amount of boost and properly metering the fuel pressure and injector timing prior to ignition all throughout the engine operating band. You also need to adjust your timing accordingly. Just as a start.

In the big picture this is not impossible. I would however venture to guess the additional weight (not to mention cost) of the turbo's support accessories would outweigh or cancel out the gains from the turbo in the first place. I think if you simply want to build a stronger Stella, consider mods necessary to swap to a larger displacement motorcycle engine or tune up a 2T motor. You could always build a Frankenstein frame for the new drive train and chop up Stella's frame to fit.

Other issues I see with the turbo setup would be piping the setup, ease of use and comfort to the operator.

Good luck and post pictures! I'd love to see the results!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:14 pm

Yes I'm only doing this as a challenge. And I'm not trying to build a drag scooter or anything like that. I have a sidecar and just need a little more umph getting up hills. The EFI has a programable brainbox that I can hook up to a laptop for mapping the fuel supply and comes with its own CDI to control the timing of the spark. I also have an electric fuel pump. As far as the weight of everything, maybe it'll add 10 pounds to the bike, the new muffler and piping weighs less that the stock exhaust. The turbo only weighs 6 pounds. The intake supply line from the turbo to the throttle body is all neoprene and aluminum. And the Anti-Gravity battery weighs a lot less then the stock battery. As far as the crankshaft and bearings, I talked to some people and since the bearings are of the roller bearing type and the boost from the turbo will probably only kick in at higher RPM's they should be able to handle it. The clutch I'll leave alone for now, its an easy thing to replace, I have looked at better ones and have one in mind if I need it. All in all, like I said, I'm only doing this for the fun of it. I'm hoping to have it all done in about 2 weeks. If it doesn't work, I'll go to a bigger motor.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Mon Mar 16, 2015 8:44 pm

Would you mind sharing where you found a turbo for small, single cylinder engines?

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Tue Mar 17, 2015 9:12 pm

I got the exhaust tubing welded up today and test fitted the intake and exhaust tubing. Here are a couple of picks.

I have to do some trimming on the intake tubing to square everything up.

And I got the Turbo on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1712406157 ... =82&chn=ps

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Wed Mar 18, 2015 7:13 pm

Here are a few pic's with the side cowl on.

stASH · Post by **stASH** » Fri Mar 20, 2015 5:39 pm

Wow! Your wife lets you work on that in the kitchen?!

oh, yeah, the turbo stuff is cool too.

GregsBuddy · Post by **GregsBuddy** » Fri Mar 20, 2015 5:54 pm

You're going to filter that intake, right?!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Fri Mar 20, 2015 7:17 pm

stASH wrote:Wow! Your wife lets you work on that in the kitchen?!

Don't be silly, its in the dining room.

GregsBuddy wrote:You're going to filter that intake, right?!

Of course I am, I've got to weld up a 45 deg. elbow to the flange for the intake of the turbo. And mount an air filter to that. I also have to weld an exhaust pipe to the flange on the exhaust side of the turbo where I'll attach the SuperTrap muffler too. And I have to weld a nut for the 02 sensor on the exhaust pipe coming out of the motor. Then I should be done with all the welding.

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Sun Mar 22, 2015 5:50 pm

Just an FYI, you won't need much of a muffler as the turbo acts as a pretty good muffler by default.
It's looking great so far. Pay VERY careful attention to your fuel needs. That is the hard part. SO far so good

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:36 pm

I have all the welding done. Intake and exhaust flanges, and the O2 sensor.

Next on my list is the fuel supply and oil supply to the turbo. And then all thats left will be the wiring and a boost gauge. Getting real close to finishing
this up. The weather is getting warmer can't wait to fire her up.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Fri Mar 27, 2015 11:48 pm

Nice job and thanks for the updates!

I hope we get some video of it running!

slotrod65 · Post by **slotrod65** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 12:56 am

That looks sharp!

lovemysan · Post by **lovemysan** » Sat Mar 28, 2015 1:38 pm

I love the supertrap and turbo sticking out of the cowl. I don't have any constructive advice other than of the crank grenades I read last year that hotrod could bulletproof the stock crank by welding, truing, and pressing on some quality bearings.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Sun Mar 29, 2015 1:32 pm

some of us up in Lake Geneva want to come see this in person. I am putting a lightly modified 200 4t engine in my tug/hack for more grunt while maintaining long term reliability (if such a thing exists in a LML engine) . We need to film this when it's running! I'm off the scoot for the next 6 weeks with a broken arm but when it's done take a ride with Scoot Jockeys around the lake with us! Only one other sidecar rig in the group that occasionally rides with us. I'll post the engine build when it arrives.
Thanks for the post up, great to see your approach to powering the tug.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 9:23 pm

Well I got the fuel supply done, just have to hook it up to the gas tank when I put it back in. I also installed a second vacuum line fitting to the intake manifold, looks like they had one there at one time, so I drilled it out, tapped it and put a brass barb fitting in. Since I wasn't going to need the stock airbox, when I took it out I realized that it was part of the fender, so I chopped off the top, it will be a good spot to mount the fuel pump. I also ordered LED light bulbs for the turn signals and rear light ( thanks to Slotrods thread on LED lights) this will help with the draw on the battery from the fuel and oil pumps.

I'll have to design and make an oil tank for the turbo. I have a friend who can weld aluminum and make it for me. But for now I'm going to use some 2" black pipe with some fittings. The black pipe is kind of heavy but it will do for now. Thats what I'll be working on next.

Here are some pic's.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 9:57 pm

Removing that airbox opened up quite a bit of real estate in there for your oil cooler/reservoir. Replacing the flasher unit with the LED's made everything play nice, should save you lots of juice for your added electronics. Lots of people rooting you on with this build! Drop me a message as the build wraps up, lots of folks up here want to see it run!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Tue Mar 31, 2015 10:32 pm

Yes there is a lot of room in there but unfortunately the oil cooler and tank have to be below the turbo so that the oil doesn't build up inside of it (the turbo has floating bearings and if the oil doesn't flow out fast enough it can get past the bearings). The tank will be mounted under the scooter, I'll be using some of the bolts on the bracket for the sidecar to attach a bracket to hold the tank. As for the cooler, I haven't figured out where I'll mount that yet.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 8:08 pm

I have the fuel supply all set up and the wiring is done. The EFI kit came with a DC CDI so I had to do figure out how to connect that since the Stella comes with and AC CDI. Hopefully I have that connected right, I can use the stock CDI but I wouldn't be able to adjust the timing with it. I did see gburbanks post on the adjustable CDI from readspeedscooters and may get one of those if the DC CDI doesn't pan out. The only thing left is the oil tank for the turbo, my first try didn't fit to well, the centerstand would hit it when I put it down, so its back to the drawing board. Then I'll have a few things to adjust and paint and hopefully I'll be able to give it a try in a week or two.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:42 pm

The cdi should get here between the 20th and the 24th. I can run it down to you if you want to try it first. PM me and let me know. My 200 4t engine isn't due till the following week and I'll run it with the stock cdi to start anyway.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Sat Apr 11, 2015 10:45 pm

of course, once you put the sidecar back on, you won't need the centerstand anymore.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:58 pm

Well I finally got everything put together, boost gauge installed, oil tank for the turbo is hooked up (not to happy with the way it looks, but it holds a quart of oil and it will do for now) and I mounted the oil cooler to the passenger foot rest bar. I programed the ECU for the EFI and now all I have to do is filler up with gas, cross my fingers and start her up. Just waiting for a nice day since the weather here in Chicago has been kinda miserable lately. So hopefully my next post will have a video of her running, wish me luck.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu Apr 23, 2015 11:59 pm

Well I finally got everything put together, boost gauge installed, oil tank for the turbo is hooked up (not to happy with the way it looks, but it holds a quart of oil and it will do for now) and I mounted the oil cooler to the passenger foot rest bar. I programed the ECU for the EFI and now all I have to do is filler up with gas, cross my fingers and start her up. Just waiting for a nice day since the weather here in Chicago has been kinda miserable lately. So hopefully my next post will have a video of her running.

srbbnd · Post by **srbbnd** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 2:55 am

I am looking forward to seeing this in action.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Fri Apr 24, 2015 12:12 pm

Send me a PM I'll run down sunday with the CDI and a video camera. I can't ride for three or four weeks anyway but I can hold the camera for some street shots! The Scoot Jockeys Lake Geneva invite is a standing offer to ride with us this summer. If this bad boy works, you planning on doing the track lap at Indianapolis during Amerivespa?

Yalzin · Post by **Yalzin** » Fri May 01, 2015 8:30 pm

You guys are such teases

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Fri May 01, 2015 11:08 pm

Yalzin wrote:You guys are such teases

I haven't had much time to work on it lately. Work has been getting in my way. But I have tried to start it up, but I'm having trouble keeping it running. I've been talking with the guys where I purchased the EFI to see what the problem is. It will start once in awhile but runs at real low RPM's and doesn't stay running very long, and will just die out if I give it more throttle. When I first tried starting it I wasn't getting any spark so I thought it was the CDI that came with the EFI kit so I tried the original CDI but still had no spark. So I put the CDI from the kit back on and for some reason I decided to ground the killswitch wire (green with yellow trace) to the battery and then I was able to get a spark. So I was thinking the killswitch was bad, so I put the original CDI back in with the wire still grounded to the battery, but still no spark. So now I want to connect the killswitch wire back up to the original CDI and disable the killswitch, but I haven't figured that out yet. The EFI place seems to think I don't have enough voltage, so I have tried jumping it with my car battery, while the car is running so that I know its getting enough voltage, but still no go. I think it has to do with the timing, when I put a timing light on it, it seems to be firing very close to TDC if not right at TDC. So right now I'm waiting to hear from them again to see what they say.

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Fri May 01, 2015 11:50 pm

I believe that the 4T Stella uses a DC CDI box. It's the same unit used on the CH80 Elite. Do you happen to know if your EFI kit is using an AC or DC CDI?

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Sat May 02, 2015 10:42 am

one thing you can use to manually adjust the timing is the Tasso timing slider, which physically moves the pickup here's a shot: locationhttps://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1015288 ... 451&type=1
Low cost solution to the timing question.you can buy them from tasso UK
http://www.lmlparts.co.uk/cgi-bin/store ... &sku=TS007
good luck and keep us posted. Adam at tasso is following your build, you might email him and ask his opinion when you order.
http://www.lmlparts.co.uk/photos/TECH_07.jpg

Johnny O · Post by **Johnny O** » Sat May 02, 2015 12:03 pm

hey djp4059,

I see the oil storage mounted below the footbed. Had an idea today not sure if this would work for you. Could you mount the oil storage under the seat in the airbox area and design your tank to connect to a vacuum hose such that oil is drawn through the turbo bearing? Of course you'll need to have an exact oil level control (volume control) and some way to prevent induction into the connected vacuum line but that might be a way to get around the low mount. I think some large scale industrial electrical motors use a similar method for thrust bearing lubes. Just a thought. Looking good btw!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu May 07, 2015 11:59 pm

Tech support told me to make sure I was getting 43 PSI of fuel pressure. So I disconnected the fuel injector and put a pressure gauge on it. When I turned the bike on the pressure shot right up to 45 PSI but then would start dropping below 40 PSI. So when I was was taking the pressure gauge off, I was easing it off slowly because it was under pressure, I noticed some small pinholes in the fuel line spraying out fuel. So I figured the fuel line was defective and decided to replace all the line with better quality hose. That was on tuesday. Today I put the new hoses on and had really good pressure so I decided to see if it would start. It wouldn't start at first, because the cal files I had loaded on the ECU were set to enrich the fuel/air ratio because I was having trouble starting it and keeping it running, so It was flooding the engine. So I pulled the plug and air it out. Then I tried to start it again. This time it fired right up and I could give it throttle. Its finally going to run the way its suppose to. But I had to shut her down because I had disconnected the oil pump for the turbo when I was installing the new fuel lines. So hopefully tomorrow I'll get that connected and burn the cal file they emailed me the first time and see what it does.

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Fri May 08, 2015 3:20 am

Keep at it

...Progress!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Fri May 08, 2015 9:18 pm

Well she is running. I loaded the new cal file and she started up on the first try, so I know the EFI is working. I don't know if the boost gauge is working though as I didn't see it register any boost yet. Bummer part is, I had the laptop hooked up to the ECU to record the data and I turned to get a screw driver and the laptop fell off the seat and cracked the screen. Know I have to get another Windows Laptop. Below is a link to a video of the engine running, its not high quality and I didn't have a lot of light in the garage.

https://youtu.be/8hYFeX8D4LI

I did take it out for a short ride and she ran good.

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Sat May 09, 2015 1:05 am

Nice job.Waste gate on turbo is staying open =no boost ?

Keep up the good work, and be patient.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Mon May 11, 2015 10:23 pm

Turns out I wasn't getting any boost because I had the BOV installed backwards. The BOV didn't come with any instructions so I put it on the way it looked like it should go on, I was wrong. But now that I'm getting boost I'm also getting oil past the bearings in the Turbo and after looking around I found out that I need to lower the pressure. The oil pump runs at 10 PSI and the Turbo should only have 4 PSI. So I ordered a needle valve a small pressure gauge and all the fittings to put together a oil regulator, parts should be in this wednesday along with a new laptop screen I ordered.

As far as having a enough juice to run all of the electronics and pumps, everything seems to run okay. I have the original battery in right now and its a little run down. It won't start the scooter with the auto-start but the bike starts with one kick and keeps on running. The Anti-gravity battery should work fine, they say it will work as long as the charging system on the bike doesn't exceed 14.6 volts.

So hopefully I'll have this done by the weekend and get it out on the road.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Tue May 12, 2015 10:38 pm

This is what I'll use for my oil regulator. It consists (from left to right) a barbed fitting(inlet), needle valve, a tee with a pressure gauge (0 to 15 PSI), check valve and another barbed fitting(outlet).

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu May 14, 2015 11:10 pm

First off, don't buy an Anti-Gravity battery. I was recording a 10 minute data file for Ecotrons to look at and the battery just kept draining, it wouldn't charge off the scooter, don't know why.

The good news is that I'm getting boost. I start getting boost at or above 5000 rpms, its hard to tell when I have the laptop on the floor behind the bike and the boost gauge is in the front. She screams at 7000 rpms with about 3 pounds of boost. I didn't have my camera to take a video of it, but tomorrow I'll put the original battery in start her up and get a video. I do have a small tach that I'll hook up and hold by the boost gauge to see where it actually kicks in.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Fri May 15, 2015 9:08 pm

Took her out for a ride today and she runs a little rough, especially in first gear starts to run better in the higher gears. I've decided to let the motor break-in for awhile before I start reving her up. So it will probably be awhile before I'll post a video of her with boost at high rpms. But if anything comes up in the meantime I'll let you all know.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Wed May 27, 2015 11:40 pm

Well it turns out I am having trouble keeping the battery charged and the EFI needs 12 volts, continually, to run properly. I need more watts. In the manual it says that the generator system puts out 96 watts and I need more than that, about 56 watts more. A run down of the electrics in the manual looks like this.

Generator system 96 watt
Head lamp 35/35 watt
Tail light bulb 5 watt
Stop light bulb 10 watt / 21 (DOM)
Speedo light bulb 1.2 watt x 2
Turn signal light bulb 10 watt / 21 (DOM)
Tell tale bulb 1.2 watt x 4

I did the LED light bulb switch, that Slotrod posted, on all the turn signals and the stop and tail lights. I don't know how many watts they draw now but it should be quite less, maybe Slotrod has an idea on that. The EFI needs 40 watts and the oil pump needs 16 watts. So I’m thinking I need close to 150 watts. I emailed Ricks Motorsports Electric to see what they could do as far as rewinding the stator to put out more watts. They said that I could send in my flywheel and stator to them and they could add more windings and give me the test results for before and after. But they couldn't guarantee that they could get the results I’m looking for. And the cost would be $150.00. This may be a bit of a gamble. So what I have decided to do is a DC conversion by floating the ground on the stator and using a 150 watt full wave regulator/rectifier.

Theoretically floating the ground to full wave doubles the watts you’re stator puts out. So I ordered a Trailtech Universal Full Wave Regulator/Rectifier and it should arrive tomorrow. I’ll have to figure out how to rewire everything connected to the original regulator to the new one. It shouldn't be to hard to figure out, but if anyone has any suggestions let me know.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Mon Jun 01, 2015 10:32 pm

Did the half wave to full wave conversion, it helped some. Took a short video of the Boost Gauge while reving the engine up, got up to 4 lbs. boost.

https://youtu.be/FdDHo3idPEA

srbbnd · Post by **srbbnd** » Thu Jun 04, 2015 1:36 am

djp4059 wrote:Did the half wave to full wave conversion, it helped some. Took a short video of the Boost Gauge while reving the engine up, got up to 4 lbs. boost.

https://youtu.be/FdDHo3idPEA

I have no idea what half wave to full wave conversion means, and no idea what that boost will do, but this is freaking cool.

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu Jun 11, 2015 9:48 pm

Since I did the Full-wave conversion and got the Trailtech regulator I went back to using the Anti-Gravity Battery. The Anti-Gravity battery won't work with the stock electrical system because you don't want to charge this battery with more than 14.7 volts, stock system will charge at over 15 volts at high rpm's. The Trailtech regulator allows you to control the voltage to the battery. I also bought an LED headlight which draws only 11 watts, I installed it today and it works great. With the stock headlight at 35 watts, I put a volt meter on the battery and turned the light on and the voltage would drop fast. The new LED light, when I do the same test, the voltage drops very slowly. The LED headlight I bought is this one http://www.carid.com/lumen/lumen-plazma ... 64409.html .

I also bought a small digital volt meter for the bike, will install this soon. The only other thing I have to work on is the oil return line from the turbo, I need to make it a larger diameter. Other than that she runs fine.

viney266 · Post by **viney266** » Wed Jun 17, 2015 4:24 am

I think you will get more boost under load going down the street.

Also, for now, why not just install a switch to shut off the headlight during the day? Its temporary, but will help you focus on one less problem.

Keep up the good work!

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Mon Jul 13, 2015 2:05 am

Every thing is going along pretty good. Just dialing in the Fuel Mapping. Have been hooking up the laptop to her and taking her out for some short rides to record data from the ECU to a log file. Then sending the log file to Ecotrons and they analyze it a send me back a new calibration file to burn to the ECU. Its getting there. But this week I'm on vacation. Gone fishing. Caught this 49" 28 lb. Musky today.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:44 am

having just had the misfortune of having blown the needle bearing on the timing chain idler sprocket at 3733 miles (stock 150 4t with readspeed CDI) neccessitating an engine re-build, keep an eye on those RPM's. Blew going downhill at 62 mph with the de-restricted CDI. Remember there are crappy indian bearings in these engines. On the plus side, I threw in one of the 200 4t engines slated for the sidecar hack (the bone stock one) and the increase in torque is promising. Still breaking it in. Viva Lake Geneva is this weekend, is your project ready for prime time?

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Sat Aug 01, 2015 10:47 pm

PRIME TIME? Hell, I haven't had any time to work on it lately. To busy at work and this heatwave are keeping me away from my scooter project. And in a week I go on vacation again. I'll most likely get a chance to work on it this week and maybe take it with me on vacation and work on it up there when I'm not fishing.

But its getting there. Trying to find the right ignition timing curve for it. I did email Tasso, to see if they knew what the stock timing curve was but their reply was that LML/Genuine won't tell anyone what it is. The manual just says 12-25 +/- 2 degrees BTDC. I put a Wideband o2 sensor and ALM on to auto-tune the AFR (air/fuel ratio), thats been working out Okay so far. But I may have to put her on a Dyno to get the calibrations done more precisely.

Ecotron does have a nice little app, that works on Android devices, called DroidCal. Saw this video https://youtu.be/0ABpfWzwZXU and I had to have it. It works thru Bluetooth. So I bought a Samsung Galaxy Tab 4 and a Sena Parani SD-1000 bluetooth adapter, to connect to the ECU. Galaxy came in today, the adapter will come in on monday. Still looking at some mounts to put on the scooter.

gburbank · Post by **gburbank** » Thu Aug 13, 2015 11:33 am

yeah, LML won't say squat, but readspeed makes a CDI with variable timing for the 4t and you can find a chart from them posted on the web. Google it if you need the info. I'm using the Readspeed 4t 125-200 cdi on the 200 cc engine, getting 72mph indicated with loads of torque. I'll be transplanting another 200 4t into the sidecar hack this fall. Scootoberfest in Lake Geneva is October 10th....

djp4059 · Post by **djp4059** » Thu Sep 24, 2015 10:46 pm

I finally got some time to work on my scooter and she's running pretty good now. With auto-tuning enabled she's running better and better each day. I'll still have to put her on a Dyno to fine tune the ignition timing. I found out why I was having trouble with the ignition timing, the pickup sensor is mounted at 29 deg. BTDC which means the most advance you can get is 29 deg. and I was setting the advance in the ECU in the 30's and 40's at higher rpm's, so I made a bracket and mounted it 54 deg. BTDC which gave me plenty of room to work with. I knew this but totally forgot about it. Hopefully I'll get a video of her running this weekend.

I hate to say this but I kinda can't wait for winter to get here so I can bring her back into the dining room and tidy everything up. I've got all kinds of wires that need to be soldered, hoses to route properly, I need to mount the boost gauge to were I can see it (its hard to look down were I have it mounted now when I'm flying down the road) and some other odds and ends. I have a couple of winter projects that I want to do also, since I have EFI and it uses an electric fuel pump I don't have to have the gas tank outlet higher than the carb on a stock setup (also, I don't have to turn the gas off) and I have a lot of space under the tank since I took off the airbox so I'm thinking about chopping the gas tank in half and making it 2 or 3 inchs deeper. I'm also going to make a better oil tank for the turbo and take the adapter off that I have between the throttle body and intake manifold and cut the flange off the intake and weld one on that matches the throttle body. Thank God I have a friend who knows how to weld all this stuff and to top it all off he isn't charging me anything to do it.

I'll also put together a parts list of everything I bought that I actually used. And figure out how much it actually cost to do this.

Modern Buddy

Poloni 165cc big bore kit, Turbocharger and EFI project

Poloni 165cc big bore kit, Turbocharger and EFI project

165 turbo build