What to check in transmission inspection

Discussion of the Genuine Buddy, Hooligan, Black Jack and other topics, both scooter related and not

Moderator: Modern Buddy Staff

Post Reply
ucandoit
Member
Posts: 360
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:21 am
Location: Minnesota

What to check in transmission inspection

Post by ucandoit »

I plan to remove the CVT cover for the first time on my Buddy 125. It has 5800 miles. No real problems, though it does jerk a bit on take off, every time.

I plan to blow out any dust there. Aside from that, what else should I be looking for in the inspection? Do I measure belt width?

Not sure if I want to commit to removing the variator and checking rollers, or removing the clutch bell. Is that recommended at 5800 miles? I could buy an impact driver, but I've read that the driver may damage the drive shaft upon re-tightening the variator nut. I adjust the valves, replace spark plug, etc., but haven't ventured into the transmission yet, though I've watched and read quite a few videos, including those on Modern Buddy. Appreciate any guidance.
User avatar
DeeDee
Member
Posts: 1107
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:07 pm
Location: Denver

Post by DeeDee »

If you're going to the trouble to remove the cover, you might as well plan on pullng the variator and the clutch. Inspect the 6 rollers. Look for excessive flat spots. Inspect the 3 horseshoe shape glides, replace if overly worn. Look at the edges of the belt for delamination. Look inside the grooves on the belt, bend it back. Do you see any cracks. Your stutter on take off is probably the clutch needing cleaned. Remove the bell and thoroughly clean it with brake clean. Sand all the glaze off the pads with 100 grit sand paper and brush away the dust with a small paint brush. If it was my scooter, I would wait until you hit 6,500 and plan on replacing the belt. I'd replace the rollers with dr. pulley sliders and replace the variator glides with the dr. pulley replacements. Here is how to make a quick variator tool for almost free.

You can use both ends, repeat the process on the bottom to hold the clutch bell. (measure for stud spacing)

I added the aluminum on this after 30 or so uses on different scooters. You do not need it. Use fender washers on both sides of your 1/4 -20 screws. I've included a picture of the outer variator. You want the screws to extend out about 1/4", long enough to fit into the indents on the variator fan. Start with a piece of 3/4" plywood 5" wide. The tool pictured is 13" long. It was made for a 50cc yamaha. I'd go 15" or so on the length. If it ends up too long, you can cut some off. 1) 1 5/8" down from the top use a square and draw a horizontal line. 2) in the center of the board, use a square and draw a vertical line intersecting your horizontal line. 3) draw a point on each side of your vertical line 1 9/16" (total distance between points 3.125") 4) at your center point drill a 1.125" hole (drill half way through on one side, flip over and finish up from the other side) 5) at your two outer points drill a 13/64" hole (one at each point, total of 2) 6)add 1/4 - 20 screws with fender washers on each side and a nut on the back side. Screws need to extend about 1/4" past the nuts. I use a 3/8" ratchet with a 16" long piece of pipe as a breaker bar. Squeeze the clutch pullys and force your belt down to loosen up the belt. Fit the screws into the notches on your variator. Turn the variator nut with the socket until the tool rests on something solid, remove your variator nut.
Attachments
Screenshot 2020-05-07 at 7.34.40 AM.png
Screenshot 2020-05-07 at 7.34.40 AM.png (196.35 KiB) Viewed 922 times
Last edited by DeeDee on Thu May 07, 2020 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
Dooglas
Moderator
Posts: 4368
Joined: Sun Jul 08, 2007 2:17 am
Location: Oregon City, OR

Post by Dooglas »

Good advice and guidance from Deedee. I'd go one step further. At about 6,000 miles on an 8 year old scooter - I would not worry about trying to determine the condition of the belt. It is hard to tell by looking, how much life there is left. It has given you good service. While you have the variator apart, just replace the belt and rollers, as well as cleaning the clutch. Job done. Buy yourself a beer.
ucandoit
Member
Posts: 360
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:21 am
Location: Minnesota

Post by ucandoit »

Thank you Dee Dee and Douglas.
I believe I can make that tool, and printed a copy of the directions. Thank you for that. The center hole is 1 1/8"? Correct?
I've heard good things about the Dr. Pulley rollers so I will switch to those. Would 11 gram Dr. Pulley rollers match the stock weights the Buddy comes with? I want to stick pretty much to stock.

The Dr. Pulley glides will fit on the stock variator? I don't understand the glides, what they do and why I would need to switch to Dr. Pulley glides.

Do you use any graphite on the rollers?
Do I need to use blue locktite on the variator and clutch bell nuts?

And finally, do you know where I can find the correct torque for tightening the variator and clutch bell nuts?

Thanks again.
User avatar
DeeDee
Member
Posts: 1107
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:07 pm
Location: Denver

Post by DeeDee »

You're welcome.

Service manual for torque setting:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5htlAG ... I4YnM/edit

Variator Slides:

http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-310_Variator_Slides

Replacement belt:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/fits-Eton-E-To ... SwU~FWESeO

I would go one gram lighter than stock rollers with Dr. Pulley Sliders.

No to lube or graphite. Yes to a bit of blue loctite.

Be sure to squeeze the clutch pullies in order to shove the belt far down into it. You don't want to tighten the variator nut with the belt in the way. At about 52 seconds below.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgVLGXMPD1A
Last edited by DeeDee on Thu May 07, 2020 1:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
ucandoit
Member
Posts: 360
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:21 am
Location: Minnesota

Post by ucandoit »

Thank you Dee Dee for giving me such complete info. laid out nicely. I esp. liked the video where I could see the use of the homemade tool. It looks pretty simple and straightforward. Now, I wlll need to get the appropriate torque wrench.
User avatar
DeeDee
Member
Posts: 1107
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:07 pm
Location: Denver

Post by DeeDee »

These go on sale all the time for $12.00. You can use the 20% off coupon in Sunday's paper as well. Been using one for 5 years now. Great wrench for the money:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth ... h-807.html
ucandoit
Member
Posts: 360
Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 12:21 am
Location: Minnesota

Post by ucandoit »

Thank you for recommending that wrench. I will probably get it. I've managed to get along without using a torque wrench, but feel it might be risky with jobs like the variator and clutch nuts. Drawing a line with a permanent marker might not suffice in getting back to the original torque. Not sure.

The list of torques in the Service Manual has one called "Nut, driving plate". Is that the variator nut? There is also one called "Nut, drive clutch--left threaded". Not sure what that is. Eventually I'll get things identified.
User avatar
DeeDee
Member
Posts: 1107
Joined: Sat Jul 26, 2014 5:07 pm
Location: Denver

Post by DeeDee »

40 ftlbs each. PGO not know for their technical writers.
Post Reply