Need help with concept and execution of valve adjustment

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phenomenalworld
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Need help with concept and execution of valve adjustment

Post by phenomenalworld »

I've just spent a couple hours googling/reading/watching video bits about valve adjustment, as my 2012 Buddy 125 is reaching 6000 miles and is high time for a V adjustment. But I've barely been able to wrap my mind around the very concept of valve adjustment, let alone feel overwhelmed, despite some general handyman can-do and know-how, on being able to understand...how to do it. Seems like the few instructions I've found are all very different from each other, and often take tech terms/notions for granted and maybe it's...much more involved than oil changes for example? Can someone point me to come clear instructions (or provide some?) and also what I'll need to do it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
ucandoit
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Post by ucandoit »

I like this article. and think it's important to truly understand it before checking your valves. http://www.scooterfocus.com/scooter_val ... rance.html

I am a beginner and it took me 3 tries to get the valves adjusted right. It's more difficult than an oil change, IMO. There is more to understand and it takes time to get the feel of using feeler gauges and actually making the adjustments.
There are 2 tutorials with photos in the technical library on this site. Go to Search, type in valve adjustment and click technical library in the forum box.
The piston must be at top dead center, TDC, when checking the valves. At TDC both valves will be closed. I like the method using the kick starter to move the engine to find TDC; watching for the large hole on the cam gear and lining up the marks is easy. You'll understand that when you look at the tutorial photo. Just gently move the kick starter until things line up. It is easy, but I explored the other method too.
The valve cover has a tube attached that makes for a snug fit when removing the cover. Be careful of the paper gasket on the cover and when reinstalling the cover, do not over-tightened the bolts. The engine must be dead cold.
If the valve gaps are good when you check them, then you won't need to adjust anything, and be glad. I was afraid of having tight valves so I got mine too loose and when I ran the engine I could hear a faint clicking sound. I had to go back and readjust them. That taught me to truly listen closely to the engine.
The Buddy has just one cylinder so there are only two valves to check.
and the gap is listed in the owner's manual. It is listed in mm I think.
Give yourself plenty of time and take it step by step. There are people on this site that know how to remove engines, rebuild them, etc. so they have a lot of experience and can help you.
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DeeDee
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Post by DeeDee »

Use the search function on this forum, and you will find all the info you need. I printed off the instructions from two posts a couple of years ago with pictures, and I have adjusted valves on close to a dozen 125s, 150s and 170is over the last 6 years. Ryan did it on his own using the same instructions after watching me do it one time. Use the kick starter to line up your marks on the camshaft. be sure your rockers are loose. Check the mark on your flywheel if you want to be sure. If you can change your oil, you can do this.
phenomenalworld
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Post by phenomenalworld »

ucandoit and DeeDee, thanks a million for the replies. I got caught up in a family crisis and also did not have the notifications turned on and am just finding this now. I had done searches on here for how-tos but apparently didn't reach the holy grail of posts and tutorials to which you've directed me. It's a relief just to have that information, not to mention the additional pointers you've personally supplied. I still feel intimidated, but much less so, and hope to put my nose into the know-how and the actual operation procedures soon. It's good to know of these resources, including both of you, so thanks again.

p.s. The feeler gauge need for a 2012 Buddy 125 is definitely .008mm?
p.s. ucandoit is "Ryan"?
ucandoit
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Post by ucandoit »

The valve gap is .08 mm for both valves. This info. is in the Buddy's owner manual, (pg. 30) if you have one. Feeler gauges come in both inches and mm. It's easiest to get a set of mm gauges. They are very affordable and are in auto parts stores.
Am not "Ryan". Am Mary. Take your time. Maybe your valve gaps will be just right and you won't have to adjust them.
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tenders
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Post by tenders »

DeeDee wrote:Ryan did it on his own using the same instructions after watching me do it one time.
So: who’s Ryan? I thought it was ucandoit, aka Mary, also.
PNWbuddy
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Post by PNWbuddy »

I adjusted the valves while the motor was out of the bike, it couldn't have been easier as the rockers are very well exposed, unlike some motors with small access ports. I don't know how hard it would be to remove the valve cover while the engine is in the frame but suspect it wouldn't be difficult.

Special tools are available to hold the adjustment screw while you tighten the lock nut but I just use a square drive wood/deck screw (mine are the same size as the square top of the adjustment screw) to hold the adjustment while tightening the lock nut.

A feeler gauge at Harbor Freight is $5 and the blades are marked with both mm and in. .08mm = .003 in.
phenomenalworld
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Post by phenomenalworld »

Mary and PNWbuddy - thanks much for further info and tips. I appreciate it and am sure all this intel will come in handy when I get my hands on the valve. Will pick up feeler gauge from Autozone this week.
sc00ter
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Post by sc00ter »

When doing the valves, you will have the scooter on the center stand. Then you will get to the valve cover and it will hit a frame support. Take it off the center stand and the valve cover will then clear the frame support. Remove the valve cover and put it back on the center stand. Also, be aware that most feeler gauges do not have metric on them. Not a big deal if you cant find metric, as you just convert the metric spec to inches and use those two feelers only. My Buddy 125 always got snug on the exhaust side.
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BuddyRaton
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Post by BuddyRaton »

Disconnect the rear shock, sit it down and the valve cover will rock down. With the air vent removed it's right there.
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GregsBuddy
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Post by GregsBuddy »

Motion Pro feeler gauge is very handy for getting in at the angle you'll need.
What you can't learn from reading and watching is the feel in feeler gauge use. The proper drag of the gauge in the gap you adjust is paramount. Experience pays.
'09 Yamaha TMAX Large sport scoot.
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Point37
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Post by Point37 »

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OBX Dan
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Post by OBX Dan »

BuddyRaton wrote:Disconnect the rear shock, sit it down and the valve cover will rock down. With the air vent removed it's right there.
Now that is a great idea! I've done a handful of adjustments on my buddy150 without doing this and getting the feeler gauges in there is a real PITA.
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