New Pawned Buddy 125
Moderator: Modern Buddy Staff
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
New Pawned Buddy 125
Hey guys, new member to the forums here. Just picked up a 2009 Orange Buddy 125 for $1,000 off a pawn shop. Only had 500 miles on it, and everything seemed perfect, really clean.
Starting it up, I've noticed 2 problems and need some advice/wisdom from y'all:
-- The scooter doesn't idle. Meaning, when I turn it on it always wants to move forward. Without twisting the throttle, it lurks at 2-3mph...so I constantly have to hold down the front break. This isn't normal is it? What do you think is wrong?
-- The front left blinker is out.
-- The great people at the pawn shop did not know if the previous owner had done the 500 miles checkup. What do you guys suggest I do? The closest dealer is 60 miles away. I only paid $1,000 for it so I'm trying to stay budget friendly.
Thanks!
Starting it up, I've noticed 2 problems and need some advice/wisdom from y'all:
-- The scooter doesn't idle. Meaning, when I turn it on it always wants to move forward. Without twisting the throttle, it lurks at 2-3mph...so I constantly have to hold down the front break. This isn't normal is it? What do you think is wrong?
-- The front left blinker is out.
-- The great people at the pawn shop did not know if the previous owner had done the 500 miles checkup. What do you guys suggest I do? The closest dealer is 60 miles away. I only paid $1,000 for it so I'm trying to stay budget friendly.
Thanks!
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
On Problem #1 (high idle) - a high idle is normal during warm-up - there's an electrically-operated "auto-choke" (actually a mixture-enricher) that operates for the first few minutes after startup. After this, the engine idle should step down somewhat. Assuming you're idle is too high _after_ warm-up (when you're out at an intersection), you can lower the idle speed by means of a simple screw accessible from the hatch at the bottom of the under-seat storage. Link to owner's manual: http://www.modernbuddy.com/pdf/Genuine_ ... 25-150.pdf Without a tachometer, let the engine warm up fully, including stepping-down from high idle, then lower the idle speed until the rear wheel is just barely turning (with the bike on the center stand). Not so low as to make the engine misfire or skip due to a too-low idle.
Problem #2 - you can find a replacement blinker bulb at most auto parts stores, I think.
Problem #3 - it would not hurt to go get a "first service" done. Since you are out of warranty, you can get it done at any cycle shop or do it yourself - there's no need to drive all the way to a Genuine dealer. There are also plenty of threads around here to guide you. At the bare minimum, you should change the engine oil and filter, and go through the 'important' bolts to ensure nothing's working loose. I would recommend conventional oil for this change, then switch to Synthetic at your next change after that (another 1000 miles or so). This helps make sure that break-in proceeds properly and that your piston rings seat just right in the cylinder. Oh, and a fresh spark plug wouldn't hurt, either.
Just make sure to combine multi-word searches with "AND", like "first AND service".
Good luck with it!
Problem #2 - you can find a replacement blinker bulb at most auto parts stores, I think.
Problem #3 - it would not hurt to go get a "first service" done. Since you are out of warranty, you can get it done at any cycle shop or do it yourself - there's no need to drive all the way to a Genuine dealer. There are also plenty of threads around here to guide you. At the bare minimum, you should change the engine oil and filter, and go through the 'important' bolts to ensure nothing's working loose. I would recommend conventional oil for this change, then switch to Synthetic at your next change after that (another 1000 miles or so). This helps make sure that break-in proceeds properly and that your piston rings seat just right in the cylinder. Oh, and a fresh spark plug wouldn't hurt, either.
Just make sure to combine multi-word searches with "AND", like "first AND service".
Good luck with it!
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- Scooterboi
- Member
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:06 pm
- Location: Lakewood, CO
- Scooterboi
- Member
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:06 pm
- Location: Lakewood, CO
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
Thanks for the quick responses!
-- So when I go to adjust the idle: have it on the center stand, unscrew the hatch at the bottom of the storage compartment, then I should see another screw in there that I adjust watching that rear wheel spin?
-- I've been reading a "how-to" for the oil change. I'm just a little confused about the oil filter. Is it the black thing located on the other side of the oil plug, and it looks like it's sitting horizontal?
-- So when I go to adjust the idle: have it on the center stand, unscrew the hatch at the bottom of the storage compartment, then I should see another screw in there that I adjust watching that rear wheel spin?
-- I've been reading a "how-to" for the oil change. I'm just a little confused about the oil filter. Is it the black thing located on the other side of the oil plug, and it looks like it's sitting horizontal?
- PeteH
- Member
- Posts: 2281
- Joined: Mon Jan 17, 2011 4:32 pm
- Location: 3603mi SE of Dutch Harbor
Ooops, yeah, I forgot about the transmission gear oil! Very easy to do. Drain and refill with 110cc's of gear oil. It's a good idea to ride the bike for a bit before draining the fluids - warm fluids will drain better, especially the thicker gear oil.
Yeah, there's an idle-adjust screw on the carb lever where it meets the cable, and it's right there when you open up the little hatch. And yes, the oil filter is the black horizontal canister on the side of the 125's engine. It's in a slightly different place (oil cooler) on the 150s and 170s.
Yeah, there's an idle-adjust screw on the carb lever where it meets the cable, and it's right there when you open up the little hatch. And yes, the oil filter is the black horizontal canister on the side of the 125's engine. It's in a slightly different place (oil cooler) on the 150s and 170s.
Feel da rhythm! Feel da rhyme! Get on up! It's Buddy Time!
- skully93
- Member
- Posts: 2597
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2011 3:54 pm
- Location: Denver CO
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
Yeah, I was really skeptical when I saw how cheap it was too. The pawn shop is highly regarded, family owned, and the people were ridiculously nice. The man who pawned it to them was a 60 year-old retired vet who got a DUI, so he had to sell it. He used to drive it up on down the hills at one of his houses, which is why it had such low mileage.
Came with a helmet, reflector vest, front and rear chrome racks, and chrome cowl protectors with the passenger foot pegs. I feel like I got an absurd deal, even though I need to do some maintenance to be on the safe side. I'm really thankful there are forums like this!
Came with a helmet, reflector vest, front and rear chrome racks, and chrome cowl protectors with the passenger foot pegs. I feel like I got an absurd deal, even though I need to do some maintenance to be on the safe side. I'm really thankful there are forums like this!
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
- batgirl101
- Member
- Posts: 268
- Joined: Sun Jun 26, 2011 5:22 am
- Location: San Francisco
- Skootz Kabootz
- Member
- Posts: 4305
- Joined: Sat Nov 15, 2008 12:47 pm
- Location: West Hollywood, CA
- Contact:
How mechanically inclined are you? Personally, for a scooter whose history you have absolutely no verifiable idea about, I would recommend taking it to an authorized Genuine dealer for an extensive going over so you know you are riding something safe and healthy. Once the scooter has a clean bill of health, OK, then you can maintain it yourself and save some money (no harm since it no longer has a warrantee to void). No to be overly negative, but at this point there are just so many things, minor or major, that could potentially be amiss. I would want to have it professionally serviced at least this once just for my peace of mind. You have no idea if the first service, the most important service in a scooters lifetime, was done properly or done at all. If it was not done and you continue riding as if it were, you could have a very short lived scooter.
You got the scooter for such a great price. I would invest just a little bit more to make sure you have a safe and healthy ride for years to come.
You got the scooter for such a great price. I would invest just a little bit more to make sure you have a safe and healthy ride for years to come.
- ericalm
- Site Admin
- Posts: 16842
- Joined: Sat Jun 10, 2006 3:01 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA
- Contact:
I would agree on taking it in for a dealer maintenance. Without knowing the scooter's history, you could run into all sorts of problems if not checked over first now. If this has been sitting for a long time with gas in the engine, it probably needs a carb cleaning.
Adjusting the idle is easy, though: topic4153.html#46188
Adjusting the idle is easy, though: topic4153.html#46188
Eric // LA Scooter Meetup Group // Stella 4T // Vespa LX // Vespa LXS // Honda Helix // some, uh, projects…
- Tom
- Member
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:07 pm
- Location: Santa Paula, CA
- Contact:
- viney266
- Member
- Posts: 2270
- Joined: Thu May 19, 2011 8:49 pm
- Location: westminster md
- Contact:
Yeah a quick dealer once over wouldn't be a bad idea. All new fluids .
I'll BET the idle was jacked up because the pilot ( or idle jet) jet in the carb is clogged from the bike sitting. So, its the smallest jet in the carb. It gets clogged ( thanks crappy E10 fuel)..The bike won't idle right, so folks jack up the idle screw to compensate. I see it all the time
. So you might need a carb clean. But then, the bike will idle properly and the screw can be turned back to where it is supposed to be.
Great deal on a great scoot. Spend a little bit more and she wont need a thing for thousands of miles. VERY reliable ride!
I'll BET the idle was jacked up because the pilot ( or idle jet) jet in the carb is clogged from the bike sitting. So, its the smallest jet in the carb. It gets clogged ( thanks crappy E10 fuel)..The bike won't idle right, so folks jack up the idle screw to compensate. I see it all the time

Great deal on a great scoot. Spend a little bit more and she wont need a thing for thousands of miles. VERY reliable ride!
Speed is only a matter of money...How fast do you want to go?
- JHScoot
- Member
- Posts: 2745
- Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 11:05 pm
- Location: Los Angeles
yeah its easily worth sinking a few hundred dollars into. won't have to chances are, but if it needed some extra care from sitting and lack of, it would pay to have the best inspection and service possible. similar to the first service and maybe more
could need a carb cleaning or maybe even a battery? is that blown bulb just a bulb or is an electrical gremlin amiss?
you got a GREAT deal on a great scooter. just a bit more invested and it'll be the perfect deal
could need a carb cleaning or maybe even a battery? is that blown bulb just a bulb or is an electrical gremlin amiss?
you got a GREAT deal on a great scooter. just a bit more invested and it'll be the perfect deal

Riding is riding
- LunaP
- Member
- Posts: 1152
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:17 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
I would take it to a dealer also.
I fully encourage you to learn to do your own oil changes, clean your carb, adjust cables, change battery, etc.... you will save a bunch of pocket money that way in the long run.
But since nobody knows whether it has had any servicing at all, a dealer should look at it. You don't know how the man before you treated it as far as breaking it in, or if it got its first service or not, and I personally wouldn't take the risk. Since you saved so much on the initial purchase (DEAL of the CENTURY! holee molee! and it's totally blinged out and everything!) go ahead and take it to the dealer. The mechanic can look for stuff you wouldn't necessarily wouldn't know to look for, and I think there's technically a whole bunch of stuff in the 'first service' package that isn't JUST an oil change, such a miniscule metal shavings, checkup on how it's breaking in, things like that (call the dealer nearest you and see what they do in a first service because sadly it seems not all dealers follow the Genuine checklist for a first service to a T).
While you're there, you can treat yourself maybe to some riding gloves or armored jacket, or a new helmet if the hand-me-down doesn't fit you right (it should be SNUG). Trust me, gear is worth it. I am one of those people that knows from experience. If you don't get anything else, at least get yourself glove with knuckle protection and/or pre-curved fingers, a good 3/4 or full face helmet, and some knee/shin guards. Oh, and some hawt sunglasses
Even if they are 60 miles away, there's nothing bad about developing a rapport with your shop. Not sure where you're located, it's not listed below your avatar, but if you tell us somebody on the forum may be near you and may know something about dealers/service shops around you.
I fully encourage you to learn to do your own oil changes, clean your carb, adjust cables, change battery, etc.... you will save a bunch of pocket money that way in the long run.
But since nobody knows whether it has had any servicing at all, a dealer should look at it. You don't know how the man before you treated it as far as breaking it in, or if it got its first service or not, and I personally wouldn't take the risk. Since you saved so much on the initial purchase (DEAL of the CENTURY! holee molee! and it's totally blinged out and everything!) go ahead and take it to the dealer. The mechanic can look for stuff you wouldn't necessarily wouldn't know to look for, and I think there's technically a whole bunch of stuff in the 'first service' package that isn't JUST an oil change, such a miniscule metal shavings, checkup on how it's breaking in, things like that (call the dealer nearest you and see what they do in a first service because sadly it seems not all dealers follow the Genuine checklist for a first service to a T).
While you're there, you can treat yourself maybe to some riding gloves or armored jacket, or a new helmet if the hand-me-down doesn't fit you right (it should be SNUG). Trust me, gear is worth it. I am one of those people that knows from experience. If you don't get anything else, at least get yourself glove with knuckle protection and/or pre-curved fingers, a good 3/4 or full face helmet, and some knee/shin guards. Oh, and some hawt sunglasses

Even if they are 60 miles away, there's nothing bad about developing a rapport with your shop. Not sure where you're located, it's not listed below your avatar, but if you tell us somebody on the forum may be near you and may know something about dealers/service shops around you.
Re: New Pawned Buddy 125
Are you starting it while the scoot is on the center stand? The reason I ask is because my 2007 Buddy has done this since I got it, but once it warms up it idles down. The wheel spins until warm up...virgincollege wrote:
when I turn it on it always wants to move forward. Without twisting the throttle, it lurks at 2-3mph...
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
- Scooterboi
- Member
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Thu Sep 08, 2011 7:06 pm
- Location: Lakewood, CO
Frustrated at trying to adapt other bike maintenance schedules to fit
I took a stab rewriting the official Buddy PA100/125 maintenance schedule. The attached file is a distilation of the offical service manual(ha) and the SYM HD200 and Kymco 150 SMs. Still falling off my chair laughing at some of the comments in the official SM. (Ass' part loose or cracked? - Well no . . . and yes!
)
There is another post (BOMP) about updating/rewriting the SM but I though that this would be a better place to post and get some feedback and corrections.
Enjoy!
I took a stab rewriting the official Buddy PA100/125 maintenance schedule. The attached file is a distilation of the offical service manual(ha) and the SYM HD200 and Kymco 150 SMs. Still falling off my chair laughing at some of the comments in the official SM. (Ass' part loose or cracked? - Well no . . . and yes!

There is another post (BOMP) about updating/rewriting the SM but I though that this would be a better place to post and get some feedback and corrections.
Enjoy!
- Attachments
-
- Maintenance Buddy PA100-125.doc
- (75 KiB) Downloaded 44 times
- pdxrita
- Member
- Posts: 851
- Joined: Sat Jul 04, 2009 2:57 pm
- Location: Portland, OR
There is no such thing as blinker fluid - he's just messing with you. I'd suggest asking only that the first service be done. Given the circumstances of how you obtained the scooter, it's a good bet that it wasn't done. Beyond that, I don't see a need for excessive paranoia about the scooter's condition unless it looks like it's been abused or crashed. As for cost, based upon other's comments here, that can vary widely from dealer to dealer. It sounds like you don't have a lot of choice in that respect, though.virgincollege wrote:There's such a thing as blinker fluid?
I guess I'll take it to the dealer...I was thinking the same things as y'all just to be safe. I'm a poor college student, so I was hoping to somehow escape that reality. How much do you think it will run me? The dealer charges 70$/hour labor.
-
- Member
- Posts: 10
- Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:21 pm
- LunaP
- Member
- Posts: 1152
- Joined: Mon Oct 03, 2011 3:17 am
- Location: Richmond, VA
Yay! My first service was about that, so if they threw in fixing the blinker that's not bad at all. Now go on a ride and give us some pics!virgincollege wrote:Just got the 500 mile service. It was $115. Got the blinker fixed - guy said the only thing wrong with it was that it was pretty low on oil. I'm excited to get riding on this little sucker.
- Tom
- Member
- Posts: 330
- Joined: Fri Jul 08, 2011 10:07 pm
- Location: Santa Paula, CA
- Contact: