Chinese gy6 carburetor
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Chinese gy6 carburetor
Has anyone tried using a replacement carb for one of the Chinese gy6s like the one below? I have an air/fuel mixture problem on the original carb that I don't have the time or money to continue trying to chase down. I realize the OD on the engine side is slightly smaller but that's easy to deal with. The venturi is also larger (26mm). At 1/10th the cost of an OE replacement, It's hard to not want to give it a shot.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CW ... _=pd_ybh_5
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CW ... _=pd_ybh_5
- DeeDee
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That is what I wanted to try. I realize the quality is not the same (hence the huge price difference). As I said, I don't have the money or the time to continue messing with the original carb. I have spent about 40 hours tearing it down, cleaning, checking, reassembling and then repeating trying to fix the problem. I either need to get the scooter running or try to sell it as-is.
topic28438.html
topic28438.html
- babblefish
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Did you try spraying carburetor cleaner around the carburetor body including the intake manifold to check for a rpm change? Don't just hose it down, do one spot at a time. As was mentioned in the other thread, there should be no change in rpm. If there is, then you've found an air leak.
The good news is, that MGGN1613 carburetor on Amazon is cheap enough to experiment with. For what it's worth, I believe that carb is a 24mm, not 26mm. Basically, the same size as the stock Buddy carb. Reason being the ID of the engine intake side is spec'd at 24mm, which is the same size as on my stock 24mm carb. The other good news (assuming no counterfeiting is going on) is that carb is marked as a "Keihin" (same as stock carb) and made in Japan.
The only bad thing that I can see from the pictures is that unlike the stock carb, the MGGN1613 does not appear to have an accelerator pump. This means the throttle response may not be as crisp and responsive as the original carb.
BTW: eBay has a US seller selling the exact same carb, but less expensive even factoring in shipping. Oh, and he states it's a 24mm carb, too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24mm-Carb-For-4 ... 66&vxp=mtr
And FWIW, I know the OEM carb is pretty expensive at around $230, but you can buy essentially the exact same carb without the PGO p/n for $110 from here with free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OKO-24mm-CVK-Ca ... de&vxp=mtr
Scooter Assassins is a well known vendor amongst scooter hotrodders.
I personally have the 30mm version of this carb in my Blur and it works great. Though my engine is a 180cc so can use the extra fuel.
Hope you find the problem with your Buddy.
The good news is, that MGGN1613 carburetor on Amazon is cheap enough to experiment with. For what it's worth, I believe that carb is a 24mm, not 26mm. Basically, the same size as the stock Buddy carb. Reason being the ID of the engine intake side is spec'd at 24mm, which is the same size as on my stock 24mm carb. The other good news (assuming no counterfeiting is going on) is that carb is marked as a "Keihin" (same as stock carb) and made in Japan.
The only bad thing that I can see from the pictures is that unlike the stock carb, the MGGN1613 does not appear to have an accelerator pump. This means the throttle response may not be as crisp and responsive as the original carb.
BTW: eBay has a US seller selling the exact same carb, but less expensive even factoring in shipping. Oh, and he states it's a 24mm carb, too.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24mm-Carb-For-4 ... 66&vxp=mtr
And FWIW, I know the OEM carb is pretty expensive at around $230, but you can buy essentially the exact same carb without the PGO p/n for $110 from here with free shipping: http://www.ebay.com/itm/OKO-24mm-CVK-Ca ... de&vxp=mtr
Scooter Assassins is a well known vendor amongst scooter hotrodders.
I personally have the 30mm version of this carb in my Blur and it works great. Though my engine is a 180cc so can use the extra fuel.
Hope you find the problem with your Buddy.
Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox.
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- babblefish
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By choking down the intake (air filter side, I presume), you're essentially increasing the amount of vacuum built up inside the carb. If it runs better this way, I would guess there's a problem with the rubber slide diaphragm. It may have a small crack or pin hole in it preventing it from pulling up the slide efficiently under normal circumstances. If you remove it to check, don't use any petroleum based solvents or carb cleaner on the rubber diaphragm. It will dry it out and cause it to crack. Also, as remote as it may be, the needle jet that's in the slide could be bent causing binding. The easiest way to check it is to remove it and roll it on a perfectly flat surface such a a sheet of glass.sneezye wrote:I did spray carb cleaner in spots starting at the airbox all the way down to the manifold. with no change in RPM. I know it's running lean because it runs well (although lacks top end) with the intake choked down. Thanks for the info! I may give it a try.
BTW, if you cleaned the carb, how did you clean it? Some of the small passages are difficult to impossible to clean if they are really clogged up without using an ultrasonic cleaner.
Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox.
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I checked the slide for full opening with a mirror and it pulls all the way up when revved (and not choked). I cleaned using b-12 chemtool and a small brush and did not use it on any rubber parts. All passage ways appeared clear before reassembly. Honestly, the carb looked great for having sat for 4 years. I will break it down once more this weekend and do an all day soak (all rubber parts removed) and check the needle valve. If that doesn't work, I'm trying the Chinese carb. Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it!
- babblefish
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If you have access to an air compressor, it would be very useful to blow air through some of the smaller passages to ensure they're clear. Spraying some of that Berrymans (using the small straw tube) through those passages would be a good idea too, though you probably know that. Good luck!
Some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox.
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The bystarted ohmed out at 8.5. It also functioned when supplied with 12v so it appears to be functioning correctly. I broke the carb down again and soaked it in carb cleaner. I checked the diaphragm closely for small holes or tears and found none. Put it back together and the scooter still sputters out at full throttle around 20bmph. Put the tape back over the airbox intake and it runs much better so no change from before.
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I purchased the amazon carb (22 bucks total) and installed it. The dimensions are a bit different and the throttle cable wasn't long enough but with some rigging, I was able to get the scooter running pretty well sans tape over the intake. This tells me that the problem is definitely the carb. This Chinese one won't work though. (surprise!)
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If you'd like you can send me your stock carb and I'll check it over and try it on my bike to see if I can fix it. Pm you phone number and we can exchange details of your interested.
161cc big bore kit, NCY big valve head Hand ported, NCY transmission kit, jetted and tuned. I can port your cylinder head.