Genuine Videos: Dealer Prep

[ericalm]

Here are a couple interesting instructional videos Genuine made for dealers to instruct them on proper new scooter prep. One is for the PGO 50cc/110cc scoots, another for the 2T Stella. There are some good tidbits in these for those who do their own maintenance, but please keep in mind that these are intended for dealers, not owners.

Direct link to the Genuine vids:
http://vimeo.com/user470878

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<a href="http://vimeo.com/2575002">50cc Dealer Prep</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user470878">Genuine Scooters</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.

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<a href="http://vimeo.com/982237">Stella Dealer Prep</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user470878">Genuine Scooters</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.

[Rokky]

Excellent Video's Eric.
I didn't realize how much preparation there was to getting these little guys street worthy.
Thanks for bringing them to our attention.

[Skootz Kabootz]

Thanks Eric. These are great. I learned a ton. It's good to see all that goes into dealer prep. Makes the cost seem quite reasonable.

[ericalm]

Makes the cost seem quite reasonable.

That's something people are always going to complain about. I don't agree with that, though. (We don't need to rehash the discussion again.) But I do think this shows there's more to it than opening a box or rolling them off a truck, as some people assume.

I'd love to see more of this sort of thing and the East Side Scooters oil change video posted elsewhere. It's kind of interesting that a dealer, who makes money on service, would post a DIY video.

[Dibber]

Eric, This would be nice to save in the Tech Library. Could you move it or copy it in that area. This is really good stuff.

[ericalm]

Good idea. I'll move it over after it's here for a while. It'll get more views here first.

[[email protected]]

Good idea. I'll move it over after it's here for a while. It'll get more views here first.

thanks for sharing, Eric

[newsmojo]

Where do we find the washer that replaced the restrictor between the engine and the exhaust?

[carreybat]

thank you for these. i used these videos to help me take the CVT apart. this really helped show me how to clean it too!

good find!

[evilscooterkitty]

Several videos from Bob Hedstrom at Scooterville at:

http://www.justgottascoot.com/scooterville.htm

[ScooterDave]

I watched the videos and was disappointed in Genuine and Scooterville. I expected it from Phil and his merry band at Genuine but, I know nothing about Scooterville other than they are using a name made famous by Scott & Judy Chain in the 80's & 90's.

Watching the videos, they are both in a proper shop environment and make absolutely no mention of the proper torque when tightening nor do they use a torque wrench for anything even though there are proper settings outlined in the Stella service station manual.

It is a basic tool for any tool box and if you are going to do your own repairs you should know the proper torque settings when putting things back together.

[Lovelandstella]

for any who want it, I have transcribed the Stella 2T proper dealer prep video.
maybe you can't view the YouTube at work- maybe you want to cut and paste it for some reason- maybe you don't have 17.5 minutes to watch a video-
well whatever the reason, I typed the whole sucker out for my own reasons (see them here)
and I'm sharing it with you- use it if you like.

it starts out like an outline and then changes to verbatim (or close to it). my apologies. if someone wants to listen to the 1st 30 seconds and transcribe that part out verbatim they can and then post it in a reply for everyone.

Stella 2T proper dealer prep:

1. uncrating Stella
- inspect for damage WITH the delivery driver still present
* damage to the crate? fork holes?
* check the "tip and tell" – is it triggered? is it missing? (sometimes they take it off to hide that they messed up
~ if it is, then note that on the drivers logbook before you sign for the shipment
* once the scooter is delivered, you have 24 hours to report the dmg to the carrier and genuine scooter company. if you miss this window you may not be reimbursed for damage repair.

take off the top of the carton and the shrink wrap
* common places to check for damage are the side of the engine, the rear fender and bumper, the headlight housing, front
fender and legshield

IF the scooter is damage free - TIGHTEN the headset bolt on the right rear of the steering column- be careful to keep all
wiring clear so wires are not cut or damaged underneath the bolt-

next install the front wheel
make sure the shallow side of the rim faces outward and the deep side of the deep faces the hub
bolts and lock washers are in the glovebox
roll the scooter off the crating materials
remove the battery
remove the caps
fill each cell to max (top) line
pull the stopper on the end
replace the caps and hook up tot a charger (deep cell charger takes 20 minutes)
while the battery is charging, fill the oil with quality oil
(the 2 stroke takes a quart of oil)
next fill the gas tank with FRESH gas.-
what gas recommended for the Stella 4T?
mirrors and mirror brackets are also located in the glovebox

match the right and left mirror to the right and left bracket
spin the bracket to the mirror and bolt each mirror to the headset as shown
and tighten

next remove the plastic engine protection cover. (might have to unscrew parts to do this)
locate the "check level screw"
if oil slowly drips out then the gear box oil is full.

replace the engine protection cover, and then install the kick start lever.
apparently the bolt comes on the kick start upside down - take the bolt off- because you have to put it in the other way - "going up" not down.
make sure to feed on the lock washer 1st, THEN the flat washer 2nd then feet the bolt UP through the underside of the lever(kick start)
once through, tighten the nut on the topside.

perhaps the MOST IMPORTANT STEP is to take off the air filter and clean out the jets using pressurized air, this removes any
residual fuel or debris from the engine resulting from testing at the factory
if you skip this step - expect to have customers coming back within the 1st 200 miles complaining of
engine problems

a thorough carb cleaning will be necessary to get them back on the road (and that'll be on the dealer for bad prep)

carb cleaning and adjustment is not covered under warranty so it's best to do this step during prep.

take care to remove any debris fron the main jet and the idle jet as well as the interior of the carburetor

next turn on the fuel valve and check that fuel is flowing to the carburetor and that there are no leaks.
then adjust the mixture screw , starting with the screw all the way in, spin it counter clockwise for exactly 3 rotations
this is a good setting for most conditions.
AT A HIGH ALTITUDE you may need fewer than 3 turns, at sea level you may need slightly more than 3 turns.

then reinstall the air filter and air box cover.
by now the battery should be charged, so, remove the electrical tape from the battery connectors

the positive side can be identified by a rubber boot

strap the battery into it's compartment and hook up the connectors then pull the rubber boot OVER the positive connection.

feed the battery's drain tube through the spare tire assembly dso the lower end hangs down toward the pavement ( I should see
it when I look under the spare tire - OR it's not long enough and it'll cause acid erosion dmg.) slide the upper end over the vent on the right side of the battery

next make sure all wheel bolts are properly tightened on the front and rear wheels and that BOTH tires are inflated to 30 psi

also check for loose bolts and connectors throughout the scooter

check for oil flow by disconnecting the oil tube at the airbox and pulling it down

it may take a minute or 2 for the oil to work its way down through the tube so be patient
if oil properly drips down to the end of the tube- reattach it to the air box.

next pull the choke out and start the scooter using the electric start.

when the engine warms up push the choke in and adjust the idle screw.
(in the middle of the airbox and carburetor)

next install the left and right cowls, start at the back end inserting the pin Into the hole on the left side of the fender,
bring the cowl down tight to the body, and use the levers forward of the gas cap to lock the lever in place

remove any plastic covering from the speedometer and taillight (using a razor blade?!)


finally, with the scooter running – check all switches and lighting, including the kill switch, turn signals, high and low
beam, turn signal indicators, and brake lights and make sure to independently test the front and rear brake levers

you are now ready to test drive.

the final step is to examine the spark plug after the test drive.
the spark plug should be a mocha brown color.
if the spark plug is white the mixture is too lean., if the spark plug is black the mixture is too rich.
make necessary adjustments tot he air fuel mixture and the stella prep is complete!

[Syd]

I watched the videos and was disappointed in Genuine and Scooterville. I expected it from Phil and his merry band at Genuine but, I know nothing about Scooterville other than they are using a name made famous by Scott & Judy Chain in the 80's & 90's.

Watching the videos, they are both in a proper shop environment and make absolutely no mention of the proper torque when tightening nor do they use a torque wrench for anything even though there are proper settings outlined in the Stella service station manual.

It is a basic tool for any tool box and if you are going to do your own repairs you should know the proper torque settings when putting things back together.

To be fair though, the videos clearly state that they are Dealer prep, not owner howtos, so being in a proper shop environment is to be expected. Also, excepting the brake caliper, pretty much every other torque spec is mentioned in the Rattler video. And since it is for Dealer Prep, showing a supposedly professional scooter mechanic how to use a torque wrench is a bit over the top, don't you think? As for the Stella only the wheel and headset bolts look to be really torque sensitive. But you are right, they should probably be mentioned.

[Type-scoot]

I was about to post a new topic adding the Buddy / Roughhouse 50 dealer prep video when I found this thread. It brings a new appreciation to how much work is involved in setting one of these up for sale. Good perspective on that dealer prep fee.

[Type-scoot]

I was about to post a new topic adding the Buddy / Roughhouse 50 dealer prep video when I found this thread. It brings a new appreciation to how much work is involved in setting one of these up for sale. Good perspective on that dealer prep fee.