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Dr. Pulley variator install- Can I do this?

Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 1:31 am
by Ed Hit
So I have about 5011 mileage on my 07 buddy. I just ordered a chicago electric wrench and am considering how to spend some hard earned bonus money coming in Nov.

I have looked at this link
topic5444.html and Rajrons, (thanks Rajron and Babblefish!) and it looks like a variator install and slider weights would not be beyond me.

http://www.buggypartsnw.com/home?page=s ... gory_id=16 looks kind of interesting to me, but no initial idea about where the main clutchspring would go, or if I need one (replaced I mean...). I went through the Buddy Service manual briefly, but it does not seem to describe that. That being said, would I want the yellow or red? Or is it not worth bothering?

Finally, another MB member tells me I need a new belt to fit the Dr P Variator, which I am not seeing for Babblefish's post, and all of that starts to move me into the realm of maybe I should just do rollers... (Hmm, I do need new hiking boots too!)

I am totally open to being told, just don't mess with it Ed! But anyone got any thoughts or better yet pics!

I should add I am looking for a little more top end, as well as getting my 250 lbs there a bit quicker. But I am basically OK where I am. Also, being in Chicago, at most I get to go up and down about 1-2 50 ft height bridge overpasses. Hill climbing is not a need around here!

thanks in advance for any input. Rough week at work ahead, and I only check here at home, so sorry if I do not reply quickly.

Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 2:10 am
by jfrost2
You can do it. Dont worry about clutch springs and contra springs for now, that's unrelated to the variator install you're talking about right now.

You will need a new belt, preferably kevlar for the new ramps on the DR pulley variator. The bike will still run with the original belt just fine, but the performance will be lacking because of less traction. The current belt will be worn with a curb for the old variator ramps, it wont give full performance like a new belt worn to the new ramps would.

Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:15 am
by bpnwmike
Hi Ed,

If you're on my site, have a look at the tutorial here.

The photos are from a buggy, but the same principles and steps apply to the scooter. Feel free to call or email us with any questions. I've helped a number of folks from this forum with their installs and upgrades.[/url]

Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:47 pm
by Ed Hit
Thanks much Mike! Found this nugget about clutch springs on Kaos voodoo site. Do the colors correspond to what you sell?


"All aftermarket springs are also rated by color, the 1000RPM is blue, 1500RPM is yellow, and 2000RPM is red."

Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:11 pm
by Lostmycage
Ed Hit wrote: "All aftermarket springs are also rated by color, the 1000RPM is blue, 1500RPM is yellow, and 2000RPM is red."
Definitely not ALL! If you're ever unsure, ask the seller. I've seen many, many, many inconsistencies in labeling and rating. Also, make sure the springs are specified for your vehicle, in this case, you want the 125/150 GY6.

Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:21 pm
by bpnwmike
Ed Hit wrote:Thanks much Mike! Found this nugget about clutch springs on Kaos voodoo site. Do the colors correspond to what you sell?


"All aftermarket springs are also rated by color, the 1000RPM is blue, 1500RPM is yellow, and 2000RPM is red."
Hi Ed,

Yes, our springs are rated in this manner, as well. As Lost pointed out, this is not necessarily true across all products and dealers, and even the "units" in the rating is misleading as the RPMs have absolutely nothing to do with the tension in the main springs.

I've seen them rated in Newtons in China, Taiwan, and other countries, which is a unit of force. This makes sense, as it clearly indicates the amount of force the spring applies when compressed. Whether 1000N, 1500N, etc is accurate either I don't know, but at least it's a more accurate form of measurement/rating.

I'm guessing at some point that someone/somewhere got he clutch arm spring rating (which CAN be reasonably measured in RPMs, though that's still a misleading unit to use) mixed up with the main torque springs - and most likely because they all use the same color scheme: blue (least tension), yellow (middle), red (highest).

Long story short - we've got 'em! :)