(NBR) 64 Vespa GD, Project CBR 2014

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 2:55 pm

I have been posting my build over on MV and in more detail on the SSRfanatic site. I know it's a vintage Vespa but I thought some of the people here might be interested in the build. I'll start by reposting from the SSR site as there is a bit more detail there for those not familiar with 2T motors and Vespa rebuilds.

Any and all comments or suggestions appreciated!

Posted March 4, 2011 on SSRFanatic
Well I have deceided to enter the 2012 version of the Scooter Cannonball Run!

Scooter Cannonball Run

The Scooter Cannonball Run is a coast to coast endurance event for scooters. It is a test of both rider and machine that covers 2500 miles and takes in some of the best motorcycle roads on the North American continent. It will be run as a time/distance/regularity rally where points are awarded based on miles completed and the ability to maintain the standard pace.Where:
The Scooter Cannonball Run 2012 will travel from Savannah, GA to San Diego, CA.

When:
It starts Sunday, 22 April 2012 and ends Sunday, 29 April 2012, with 8 days worth of riding across North America in between.[/FONT][/COLOR]

This will be the first year using a handicap system instead of the previous class system.

I am in the process of planning...and then will start building a bike that will give me an 83% handicap.
I'll keep you updated!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 2:59 pm

Posted March 5, 2011 on SSRFanatic
The handicap system is pretty cool. Year is determined by registration. As the organizers said...there are loopholes...and they fully expect and encourage them to be exploited. I'm gonna exploit the snot out of them!

I'm using a 79 P200 as the donor bike, I picked it up in Miami for $478, motor running but transmission locked. Two hours after getting it home I was running it around the neighborhood.

The 79 P200 is probably the best motor Piaggio made. The last year before emissions controls and designed for the Dellorto 24/24 carb.

Of course I'll be doing a full rebuild with upgrades.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:01 pm

Posted April 15, 2011 SSRFanatic
I finally put in some parts orders last night
Pinasco 213 Kit from scooterworks Alloy cylinder kit with a nicosil lined bore

Since I figure I'll be over 20hp (I'm hoping for about 25 hp) I went with a gas flowed laser welded SERIE PRO by Worb5 Long stroke flowed crankshaft
Fuel tap SIP Fast Flow
Racing exhaust SIP ROAD "sport "

Now that we got Mel's Rally out of the shop it's time to drop the donor motor, take it apart and clean it up! photos to follow soon!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:05 pm

POSTED April 20, 2011 SSRFANATIC

]Well I finally got started today. I only have a year and two days for the build.

First off here is the"donor" scooter. A 1979 Vespa P200E that I picked up cheap.

The floor boards have some rust and there is a fuel system problem. Someone has replaced the US fuel tap with a European type. But it starts and runs so I know that it is basically sound...well sound enough!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:07 pm

Posted April 20, 2011 SSRFANATIC
Up on the lift pull off the cowls and get it ready to drop the motor

One dirty 200 cc motor!

Drain the gear oil (2 stroke so no crankcase oil to drain) Pull the battery and spare tire

Disconnect electrical connections fuel line, oil injector line, shifter, clutch, throttle, choke, and rear brake cables and take off the fan cover.

Pull the bellows the carb and the air box to make things easier later

[/QUOTE]

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:10 pm

Posted April 20, 2011 SSR Fanatic

The cooling shroud is off exposing the head and cylinder

I could take it off the lift and drop the motor now, but might as well take a few more things off while its jacked up!

A couple of special tools needed to remove the flywheel

Under the magnetized flywheel we find the stator coils

The black square on the stator is the coil pickup, timing is set by rotating the stator and checking with a timing light through the little window in the flywheel

Stator and Ducati coil (blue box in previous photos) removed, woodruff key that positions the flywheel on the crank (that timing thing again!) removed

Tomorrow...drop the motor and hopefully get to splitting the cases!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:12 pm

Posted April 21, 2011 on SSRFanatic

Busy day today but I got a lot done.

Dropped the motor out of the P200

I pulled off the wheel, did a little preliminary degreasing and got it up on the bench.

Pulled the head next and found a broken lock washer. It looks like there has been some blow by at the upper right stud.

Next pulled the cylinder, there has been some blow by the rings also.

Time to get it on the stand to make the rest of disassembly a bit easier

Flywheel side

Clutch side

Crank

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:14 pm

Posted April 21, 2011 on SSRFanatic

Pulled the rear hub, looks like the original brake shoes

Remove shoes and dust cover. Now time to remove the clutch cover and pull the clutch, a couple of special tools needed again!

With the clutch out we can see the cush drive, (lower right), main crank bearing, and the oil injector pump drive gear (upper left)

Stock 23 tooth clutch

Remove all the case bolts and split the cases. This set came apart pretty easily, I checked the numbers and the halves match (good news!)

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:16 pm

Posted April 21, 2011 on SSRFanatic

Next I removed the crank...and look what I found...a torn clutch side crank oil seal. It may have been torn at the factory or eroded (I hate ethanol!)

Next was to remove the gear stack and check the cruciform. It doesn't look too bad, but as it is a sacrificial part, and replacements are cheap, it will be replaced.

The only way to get that rear axle out is to pound it out...without messing up the hub spline!

All that was left was to remove the lay shaft with the cush gear.

All that's left is to remove the bearings.

So we have the naked clutch side case

And the fly side case (kick start quad not yet removed)

That was enough for today! Tonight both case halves are soaking in Simple Green! I got a lot of parts to clean!

I hope some of you are enjoying this and trust me. I'm just getting started!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:19 pm

Posted May 1, 2011 SSRFanatic

Well it's been a lot of parts cleaning and prep. Just like painting...it's all inthe prep!

The pinasco 213 kit is notoriously difficult to set upright. The kit is designed to be used with either a stock crank or a stroker, of course in the stock configuration, it doesn't do either one very well!

I'm going with a MEC EUR stroker 60mm...(an entire 3mm longer than stock 57mm!) It has been modified by Worb5. The big end bearing has been replaced with a much higher quality one, the crank has been cut and polished (gas flowed) to allow a longer intake period (more gas/air/oil) and allow the mix to flow smoother. The pin has also been laser welded to prevent twisting under high torque.

Worb5 crank

Stock left....Worb5 right

Well we want to get that extra fuel into the cylinder don't we?
The pinasco piston has much larger intake and exhaust ports over the stock.

Pinasco left....stock right

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:22 pm

Posted May 1, 2011 SSRFanatic

The head needs to be profiled to achieve the proper squish (about 1.5 mm.) I'm shipping it to Al at Hot Rod Scooters. I'm good...but I do know when to call in the pros! Al will port the cases and cylinder, profile the head, and install new bearings. I usually do my own bearings but Al has the proper bearing press and crank installation tools. (I usually cheat, heat the case, freeze the bearing, allthread old bearing, and washers and for a press)

Pinasco heaad

I went with high quality WTW bearings

Main bearing

Bearings and seals

Before sending to Al I replaced the swing arm and rear shock bushings.

I went with Clauss Studio bushings. These have a built in swing arm stabilizer. They will transfer some vibration, but greatly improve stability and handling!

Claus Studio left....stock right

Original rear shock mount

Claus Studio swingarm and rear shock mounts installed

I'm also having Al lighten the flywheel. Here it is stock and we will see what it looks like later! The oval hole is to check timing with a strobe. The flywheel also acts as the fan for air cooling.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 3:23 pm

OK you guys are up to date now. I'll keep you updated in "real" time

interweb time x scooter time = ??????

Kaos · Post by **Kaos** » Wed May 04, 2011 4:42 pm

Man, the ports on that piston are HUGE. Thats gonna be a fun bike to run

Skootz Kabootz · Post by **Skootz Kabootz** » Wed May 04, 2011 4:52 pm

Awesome post! I'm learning a ton. Can't wait for the next installment. Thanks BR!

Silver Streak · Post by **Silver Streak** » Wed May 04, 2011 4:55 pm

Great work. That bike is going to be a rocket!

BootScootin'FireFighter · Wed May 04, 2011 5:57 pm

that looks like an awesome project! I wish I was smart enough and had the garage space to do something like that. I'm setting my sights on CBR '12 as well, but nothing definite yet.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:33 pm

Silver Streak wrote:Great work. That bike is going to be a rocket!

I'm really going for HP and torque. My goal is to build a touring bike. That's why I went with the Pinasco kit. The Malossi kits (like I have in my 67 GT) are designed for high rev acceleration. This should deliver strong overall power for hill climbing and be able to cruise at 65 - 70 all day. The aluminum cylinder sheds heat much faster than cast iron and can run hotter. The main disadvantage is that you can't rebore. I'll be bringing the stock crank and top end along as spares.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:34 pm

Kaos wrote:Man, the ports on that piston are HUGE. Thats gonna be a fun bike to run

The difference is amazing isn't it! And that Worb5 crank...I could just put it on a shelf and look at it all day!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed May 04, 2011 6:39 pm

BootScootin'FireFighter wrote:that looks like an awesome project! I wish I was smart enough and had the garage space to do something like that. I'm setting my sights on CBR '12 as well, but nothing definite yet.

Ahhh.... all you need is a dining room table!

See you at the start line!

Kaos · Post by **Kaos** » Wed May 04, 2011 7:05 pm

BuddyRaton wrote:
Kaos wrote:Man, the ports on that piston are HUGE. Thats gonna be a fun bike to run
The difference is amazing isn't it! And that Worb5 crank...I could just put it on a shelf and look at it all day!

Man you're making me jealous

The Rally 180 engine in my Super would look nice with those bolted to it

KRUSTYburger · Post by **KRUSTYburger** » Thu May 05, 2011 12:47 am

Cool, Raton! Hey are you going to Sleep Away Camp this year? I think I'm gonna go.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Thu May 05, 2011 1:34 am

KRUSTYburger wrote:Cool, Raton! Hey are you going to Sleep Away Camp this year? I think I'm gonna go.

SWEEEET! I wouldn't miss Sleep Away Camp! what are you bringing?

KRUSTYburger · Post by **KRUSTYburger** » Thu May 05, 2011 12:12 pm

p200. How about you?

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Thu May 05, 2011 8:12 pm

68 SS180 and I might be lending the rat to Melanie.

Beamster · Post by **Beamster** » Fri May 06, 2011 2:12 am

Is that a Kendon lift?

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Fri May 06, 2011 11:44 am

Beamster wrote:Is that a Kendon lift?

Yes it is

http://www.kendonusa.com/lifts.html

Beamster · Post by **Beamster** » Fri May 06, 2011 12:06 pm

BuddyRaton wrote:
Beamster wrote:Is that a Kendon lift?
Yes it is

What do you think about it?
Been considering one but they seem a bit minimal compared to normal tables like Handy.

DirtyRAT · Post by **DirtyRAT** » Sun May 22, 2011 6:17 pm

I'm impressed with how clean, well equipped, and organized your garage is.

Nice. Cant wait to see/hear the final project outcome.

bigbropgo · Post by **bigbropgo** » Sun May 22, 2011 6:29 pm

Looking forward to updates. I'm a bit jealous. The time and the talent.......wish I had it. What ideas do you have for paint?

Howardr · Post by **Howardr** » Mon May 23, 2011 12:56 am

Love the build. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Definitely get some video once she's running.

On the other hand, I think the whole new handicap system for the Cannonball is kinda screwy. It's so bizarre that the Salton Sea folks started with it, then ditched it.

Howard

Raiderfn31 · Post by **Raiderfn31** » Mon May 23, 2011 1:02 am

BuddyRaton wrote:Posted April 15, 2011 SSRFanatic
I finally put in some parts orders last night
Pinasco 213 Kit from scooterworks Alloy cylinder kit with a nicosil lined bore

Since I figure I'll be over 20hp (I'm hoping for about 25 hp) I went with a gas flowed laser welded SERIE PRO by Worb5 Long stroke flowed crankshaft
Fuel tap SIP Fast Flow
Racing exhaust SIP ROAD "sport "

Now that we got Mel's Rally out of the shop it's time to drop the donor motor, take it apart and clean it up! photos to follow soon!

I wish I had the $ to do things like that!! Should have stayed in school instead of skipping and smokin out

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon May 23, 2011 11:50 am

Howardr wrote:Love the build. I'm looking forward to seeing more. Definitely get some video once she's running.

On the other hand, I think the whole new handicap system for the Cannonball is kinda screwy. It's so bizarre that the Salton Sea folks started with it, then ditched it.

Howard

The handicap system is kinda strange...but it is the best excuse I could come up with to build a scooter like this.

More build infor soon, between being on the road for work and Sleep Away Camp I haven't gotten much done...but I have received some slamming parts from SIP!

CWO4GUNNER · Post by **CWO4GUNNER** » Mon May 23, 2011 12:15 pm

That is really the best way to get a new scooter, from scratch. Not only is rebuilding it from scratch exponentially more affordable and fun, but you end up with a better then new machine. Congratulations on such a cool and quality project, from what you've posted so far it looks like your going to end up with a customized highly sought after scooter worth allot more then what you invested, aside from the sentimental value which Im sure will be even more.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon May 23, 2011 12:50 pm

CWO4GUNNER wrote:That is really the best way to get a new scooter, from scratch. Not only is rebuilding it from scratch exponentially more affordable and fun, but you end up with a better then new machine. Congratulations on such a cool and quality project, from what you've posted so far it looks like your going to end up with a customized highly sought after scooter worth allot more then what you invested, aside from the sentimental value which Im sure will be even more.

I figure that I'm going to wind up with a $6,000 scooter that I would probably be able to sell for $3,500 - $4,000.

It's one of those things where you are never going to get the time and money invested in resale. Parts alone for the upcoming front end conversion were over $1,300. That's OK with me! I'm buildng it 'cause I want to ride the snot out of it!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 1:18 pm

Update time!

Well Al is working on the P200 motor and I have been busy with Sleep Away Camp, Amerivespa...and that stupid thing called work.

I have been ordering and compiling parts.

If any one is ordering tires from out of the country drop me a PM. Customs was a bit of a pain to import a set of 3 SIP tubeless rims and tires!

Well the fun has started! I'm done with pulling parts from the donor P200 and it is time to start work on the build scooter!

I'm using my 64 Vespa GL frame. right now it has a 79 P125 motor kitted to 177 (Pollini...I think)

I know I know...that's a Sprint mudguard on there, but that will be corrected later!

This motor ran strong before developing an air leak at the fly side oil seal and has been cranky ever since but it has never seized. I'm planning on rebuilding it and bringing it along as a spare.

First I checked the the top end compression and I was pleasantly surprised at the results!

Then it was on to the lift, prep for the motor drop, then put it on the jack to drop the motor.

With the left cowl removed you can see the 12 volt rectifier and the added 2 stroke oil reservoir to be able to run an oil injected motor.

This is the first time I have used a jack to drop a motor and it worked really well!

I also removed the seat and package area and pulled the gas tank.

Here you can see the fuel tap. I'll be removing this and replacing with a high flow tap and also checking the condition of the tank interior.

That's it for yesterday. Today it's time to drop the fork!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:44 pm

Good progress today!

Since I'm upgrading the suspension and going with a fully hydraulic front disc brake I need to change out the fork.

First was to remove the headlight assembly and the speedo.

It actually looked pretty good in there. Only one wire going...nowhere.

Next was to pull the clutch cable and front brake cable

Then on to the wiring.

The switch wires needed to be disconnected

Then pulled through the headset

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Jun 26, 2011 11:47 pm

The headset is held on by a bolt that goes through a cut out in the fork

And sets into a nut in the headset (bottom nut)

You can also see the two shifter cables that run down to the selector box on the right and the throttle cable on the left

After removing the bolt and disconnecting the control cables it is pretty much tapping the headset off with a rubber mallet.

Now we can start having fun!

If you look below you can see form the bottom up the upper steering bearings, the upper bearing upper race, the tabbed washer and the lock nut

A special tool is needed to remove the locking nut and upper bearing race. You can do it with a screwdriver and a hammer...but you can screw it up pretty easily that way!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Mon Jun 27, 2011 12:40 am

I removed the tire and rim and lowered the jack so the hub was resting on the floor.

Yeah...those are the old cables laying around.

Once the upper bearing was out I just jacked the frame up and the fork slid right out. As it drops out you can see the lower steering bearings and race.

Stripped down frame

The old fork and hub is on top and the new fork is on the bottom

The pinch bolt lines up correctly but the steering lock doesn't. I could cut a slot in for it but I probably wont bother to since I never use them anyway.

I slid it in for a test fit and the steering stops are correct and it fits well. The main thing is going to be figuring out how to mount the mudguard.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:31 pm

Well it has been over a year since I have given any updates. As John Lennon said "Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans." Soon after this last post I was deployed to the middle east for a year and returned to....well lets just say the mother of all Honeydo lists (including a major remodel which I did almost all the work). So I have finally had a chance to get back to project Vespa GD!

So let's get caught up!

Before I left I was able to pretty much finish up the front end.

Of course as with so many aftermarket parts the Malossi RS24 front shock
needed a little modification to fit so I ovaled out the mounting holes just a little.

As I thought, fitting the mudguard was one of the toughest parts. I know I know...original 64 Vespa Mudgaurds are as rare as hen's teeth...so what the heck was I doing cutting one up!

Well I had found one that someone had already cut and patched so I didn't feel too bad making a cut to fit the shock.

Getting it anywhere near centered was also a challenge but I finally got it close enough so that I will be able to get it on properly on the dry build

After that I dropped the fork, completed disassembly and was getting ready to go to paint while waiting on my motor to come back from Al at Hot Rod Scooters.

I had ordered a new trap headset and had dropped it off with my welder to fabricate a master cylinder mount.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Tue Jul 16, 2013 11:41 pm

Since I only had 7 days to deploy to the Middle East my headset and master cylinder sat with my welder for over a year. I called him and said that it would be a while before I picked it up..no problem...he stuck it on the shelf.

He did a great job...I am a fair welder at best and don't have the skill, equipment, or knowledge to weld cast aluminum.

Here is the new headset with the mount.

Of course when he tapped the mounting holes he went SAE...they will probably be the only non-metric fasteners on the scooter!

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:09 am

Dude, you have autolube? Gonna have to cut a corner of your vintage card.

Looks like it's gonna be a touring monster. You've got the crank I want for my build and a nice heat-dissipating touring cylinder there. I think you'll love the Sip Road pipe. I will never put another Sito+ on after running a SIP. Only thing better that's as stock-stealthy is a PEP 3.0 (super pricey).

Glad the head's geating re-profiled. I binned the USA head on my P for a Euro head and the engine was noticably livelier. Currently running a modified USA head what was professionally re-profiled and polished. Didn't seem to make her any sportier, but I can go all day at WOT and not blow her up. Please share when you get Al's re-profiled head back; I'm curious as to how he treats them.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:54 am

So my motor had been back from Al at HRS for about a year...ok...a little longer. Today I got around to putting the bottom end back together.

As long as he had it Al swapped the bearings and seals and pulled in the crank.

Rear Hub bearing

Main Bearing

Fly side bearing

When I pulled the output gears I marked the fly side of each one with paint and wired them together to keep them stacked correctly.

Then it was time to reinstall the gears.

Fourth

Third

Second

First gear in, spacer in place and installing the circlip

Then check the float. According to Haynes it should be 0.15 to 0.40 mm Mine was good!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed Jul 17, 2013 1:04 am

az_slynch wrote:Dude, you have autolube? Gonna have to cut a corner of your vintage card.

Looks like it's gonna be a touring monster. You've got the crank I want for my build and a nice heat-dissipating touring cylinder there. I think you'll love the Sip Road pipe. I will never put another Sito+ on after running a SIP. Only thing better that's as stock-stealthy is a PEP 3.0 (super pricey).

Glad the head's geating re-profiled. I binned the USA head on my P for a Euro head and the engine was noticably livelier. Currently running a modified USA head what was professionally re-profiled and polished. Didn't seem to make her any sportier, but I can go all day at WOT and not blow her up. Please share when you get Al's re-profiled head back; I'm curious as to how he treats them.

I'm probably going to stuff it into the GT and run premix first. That motor took a beating on CBR and needs to be torn apart. I know I'm missing at least one rivet on the cush drive...saw that after the clutch asploded! Also there are some clutch retaining ring parts that I never found.

That scooter is also already set up with CHT EGT and tach. It's going to take about 800 miles to break it in so I can use it while I get back to the GL body

Of course with I had time to think so I went back to stock mounts. The clauss were too stiff for me on the GT so I'll see how I like new stock mounts.

Also changed my mind about the SIP sport. Sold it to a buddy and have a PEP 3.0 ready to go!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sat Jul 20, 2013 9:37 pm

As long as I had everything apart I'm going for a high torque motor I had al rebuild the cush drive. It was loose so I took it off and added a lock washer and blue loktite I torqued it to 25 ft/lbs.

Here is before

So the clutch side of the cases are almost done...time to work on the fly side and get them back together!

I almost forgot but did remember to change out the kick start seal. I just pried the old one out.

and just installed the new one with a small screwdriver.

The kick start gear spring was held in place with grease

Reinstall the kick start quadrant. You can see the black rubber buffers above and below the quadrant that were also reinstalled

And the kiskstart return spring

Place the kick start ratcheting gear

And everything is pretty much ready to go back together!

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Sun Jul 21, 2013 1:48 am

OK...everything is ready. I ran my finger around the faces of each side of the case faces to check for any burrs and didn't find any. Then a light coat of grease on each side of the case faces and put the gasket in place.

With the kick start gear spring held by grease time to place the clutch side case on. A little wiggle of the kick start lever and everything dropped down into place.

You may notice that I have removed the Clauss Studio mounts and replaced with new stock mounts. I used the CS on my CBR 2012 motor and it vibrated the snot out of everything. The CS might be OK with the 200 but I'm going to try the stock first. I can always swap back to the CS if I want to

Time to slide in the case bolts, new lock washers and the nut. I like to get everything in place and then go around and hit each one with a little loctite.

I like to start with a nut driver and criss cross until everything is snug. I know I can't over torque with that.

Then 1/4 inch drive, criss cross until "wrench" tight

Then torque to 6 ft/lbs with a torque wrench...criss cross of course!

Remember a torque wrench is a measuring tool, not something to bust loose stubborn bolts!
Once everything is torqued up don't forget to zero out your wrench and put it back in the case to keep it in good shape.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Tue Jul 23, 2013 2:02 am

I forgot to post these photos before but before closing the cases don't forget to put the slinger in. Amazing the way the gasket changed color isn't it!

This little plastic piece is designed to sling the crank case oil up and all over the place including the clutch.

[/quote]

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Tue Jul 23, 2013 10:19 pm

Hey, all I needed to see is that you binned the Vedamotors gasket and put a proper one in there. Saw that telltale rainbow packaging in the background...

This gasket is crap!

I just wish they offered better gaskets for the carb and airbox. Working on that bit...

Tocsik · Post by **Tocsik** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:41 am

You know waaaaay more about scooters than most of us!

Thanks for posting. I'm always learning (or at least reading about) cool stuff around here.

BuddyRaton · Post by **BuddyRaton** » Wed Jul 24, 2013 1:31 pm

Tocsik wrote:

You know waaaaay more about scooters than most of us!

Thanks for posting. I'm always learning (or at least reading about) cool stuff around here.

The main thing that has saved my butt is that during disassembly I bagged and tagged EVERYTHING. One large bag for all clutch related parts. One small one labeled P200 Hub nut with just a nut and a washer. Honestly I pretty much know what goes where but if I don't do that I wind up with a few nuts, bolts, washers etc that I'm just not sure where they go.

Post by **ericalm** » Sat Jul 27, 2013 4:08 am

EXCELLENT thread! I'm hoping to learn a lot from following along.